Worth studying, all the way through:
The Ballistol-Story contents all important information of the history, the development and all the properties of Ballistol.
www.ballistol-shop.de
Selective quotes:
Systematically considered, there are several methods possible on the one hand, removal of residue and preservation are carried out by employing different substances in two or more working-processes. On the other hand, the working processes can be combined in one product. Let`s consider the former process first. At the beginning acid residue must be removed. An alkaline oil like BALLISTOL is perfect for this purpose. The neutralisation product out of the acid residue and alkaline BALLISTOL is harmless. Remainders of gunpowder and tombac are dissolved by BALLISTOL. Due to its low surface tension BALLISOL reaches even the remotest corners, which cannot be reached otherwise BALLISTOL does not do any damage to the synthetic materials used in weapon making. The wooden stock is maintained and preserved by BALLISTOL, which is absorbed into the surface of the wood, thus preventing the stock from mould and fungus. Leather is cleaned, maintained, and preserved in the same way.
Due to a special corrosion-inhibiting compound BALLISTOL also protects against corrosion. It preserves the gun for a long time and prevents it from rusting, inside as well as outside. Especially advantageous is if you use BALLISTOL sparingly, i.e. a film of BALLISTOL on the gun is enough to protect it fully. In this way the sensitive browning also remains undamaged. The browning itself does not protect against corrosion, but is meant to underline the optical impression. Like any other oil BALLISTOL is emulsifiable with water. Even this emulsion has corrosion-preventing properties. The water will evaporate from this emulsion and what will remain is a protecting film of oil. Due to the chemical structure of the alkaline, oils they won`t become sticky or resinify. Guns treated with BALLISTOL, for instance, have been stored for over twenty-five years in a cellar. They were only wrapped in wax coated paper. When they were unwrapped after so many years, no rust could be detected. The mechanical parts of the guns worked unobjectionably, which became clear during the series of trial shots which were carried out without cleaning the guns beforehand.
Then there are the so-called neutral oils, such as Gunex. This kind of oil is not emulsifiable with water but it can creep between metal and water, which means it is an outstanding and durable protection against corrosion. This kind of oil, however, has one disadvantage. removed by continual diluting the residue, which is done through repeated cleaning by means of a cleaningrod and tow for example. Remainders of the noxious substances will stay back in the barrel in anIt cannot chemically neutralize the acid residue of deflagration sufficiently. The acid can only be partly y case. Furthermore, metal deposits cannot be dissolved but only getting rid of them can be made easier due to the creeping-effect mentioned above. As neutral oils are solely used in the field of rust prevention, they lack the maintaining and preserving properties with wood and leather. In a nutshell, the advantage of the neutral oils e.g. GUNEX is that they can inhibit rust for a longer time, but their disadvantage is that they cannot be used otherwise effectively. What must be emphasized particularly with GUNEX is that it preserves bare brass surfaces excellently, which means only one treatment with GUNEX will keep the original yellow-golden glimmer for weeks and months. Of course, steel and iron are protected in the same way. Test objects had to undergo a process during which a salt solution was sprinkled on them for more than 100 hours; no stains of rust whatsoever. GUNEX also showed its outstanding properties in climate of condensation, where the tested objects remained undamaged even after thirty days.
As a matter of course, GUNEX is freefrom water-contaminating chlorinated hydrocarbons, which decompose in the barrel and attack lands and riflings in the course of time. Needless to say that BALLISTOL and GUNEX sprays are filled with evacuants that don`t damage the ozone layer.
In case of heavy duty use of the gun and in case of high demand on its precision, e.g. as it is with benchrest-shooters, it does not suffice to remove tombac and lead deposits by means of a gun oil. This is a case for ROBLA SOLO barrel cleaner, which can dissolve copper and brass extraordinarily well. Without attacking steel, nickel or chrome. The original precision of the gun will be fully reestablished if it was caused by residue in the barrel.
This, to me, says that Gunex is a neutral creeping preservative with no barrel cleaning properties. Carbon, nitro powder residues, copper, lead, zinc etc. For that you would need to use e.g their Robla Solo product, or other secret sauce, then apply Gunex afterwards.
Whereas the original Ballistol is an alkaline oil, miscible with water if wanted, which can also mildly attack all the mentioned barrel foulings, then leave a preservative coating. Quite different.
There is also plenty to read there trying to dismiss stories about the original Ballistol degrading in long term storage.
Also worth a read, the original Ballistol MSDS, here is one version:
Compatibility of Ballistol with Other Materials Ballistol is fully compatible with all metals including aluminum. However, Ballistol dissolves traces of copper, zinc, lead and tombac and can, therefore, be used to clean brass, bronze and silver. BallistoL is compatible with all types of unfinished woods. Ballistol is compatible with paints and varnishes which are chemically resistant to petroleum. Caution is recommended when using Ballistol on antique furniture or antique musical instruments. Paints and varnishes from past centuries may not be resistant to Ballistol. Ballistol can be used on all smooth leathers. Its use on suede is not recommended, since it will spoil its looks. Ballistol can be emulsified with water and mixed with gasoline, diesel fuel or antifreeze. Ballistol will chemically interact with and partially or fully neutralize substances of an acidic nature such as, but not limited to, human sweat, battery fluid, residues from tannic acid in leather.
So, it seems to me, either use the original Ballistol to do the full job of cleaning, perhaps not quite so effectively as modern products against carbon, copper, gilding metal/tombac, zinc etc. then leaving behind a preservative layer of "medicinal oil" Or do something more modern, then apply whatever preserving oil suits you.
Or try the Gunex and Robla Solo combination.
FWIW my regime varies, but generally involves carb cleaner, penetrating oi soak, Butches Bore Shine, then whatever rust preventative (a big can of Browning Legia spray) if not shooting in the next few days. Otherwise patch out with meths, IPA, even acetone. None of these are eco, nor friendly to wood or plastic, nor smell nice, and use up lots of patches and brushes. But they do work, and come in big containers, so I have probably a lifetime's supply.
I also mix cast lead, copper plated lead, traditional bullets and lead-free stuff, which if not cleaned back to bare metal periodically can build up over the top of each other if not kept in check.
But, if a dollop or squirt of something developed over 120 ears ago still works for you, crack on. I've not tried it, nor treated my boots and belts with it, nor taken it internally for whatever reason, nor done so with dogs or horses or rubbed it over them, or my wooden outdoor furniture, and all the other claims. I have better/proven efficacious/approved stuff for that.
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