Hmmm. Not legal in some places e.g. Krankieland but you might be pleasantly surprised at just how much light gathering there is on a Pard 007 and 008 with nil IR on.
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Never got the point of them myself. Why would you have the two key elements of setting accuracy exposed to knocking, rubbing, etc.I will NEVER have open turrets in the field, be there a zero stop and/or lockable turrets or not. I have other things to worry about than twiddling on the scope during a hunt. Looks very cool on TV but probably produces more errors than not.
Because it is dark in many cases. We are in the low light section, aren‘t we?Snipers seem to manage fine in the field with all manner of exposed turrets?
Why not just check they are correctly set before a shot?![]()
I use Swarovski PV 3-12x50 with the TDS Plex reticule so I can accurately adjust for range without any mechanical adjustment. That said I almost never stalk past 150m but I’ve tested it on steel out to 450 and it just works.I will NEVER have open turrets in the field, be there a zero stop and/or lockable turrets or not. I have other things to worry about than twiddling on the scope during a hunt. Looks very cool on TV but probably produces more errors than not.

Either this or a simple holdover without additional hash marks on the reticle. People who cannot assess how much 50cm are on a roe or a red should probably not take the shot in the first place.I use Swarovski PV 3-12x50 with the TDS Plex reticule so I can accurately adjust for range without any mechanical adjustment. That said I almost never stalk past 150m but I’ve tested it on steel out to 450 and it just works.
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Yeah we are discussing low light aren’t we? So surely the argument is that if you can’t see what the turrets are set at when they’re three inches from your face, is there enough light being transmitted through your scope to shoot the deer you’re looking at?Because it is dark in many cases. We are in the low light section, aren‘t we?
If a sniper places a bad shot you have a missed or wounded enemy. Nobody says it out loud, but who cares. But no one wants this on a deer he is after.
I once thought so too, but I have to admit that you start to appreciate the brilliance of a system such as Zeiss’ ASV+ once you use it.Either this or a simple holdover without additional hash marks on the reticle. People who cannot assess how much 50cm are on a roe or a red should probably not take the shot in the first place.
The evidence points to “most definitely”.So just for clarity, are you saying that people would care more about animals they are shooting at over people?
Regarding light conditions, yes, this is exactly as you say. Not enough to positively check the turrets but enough to shoot a deer. Have a look at @Heym SR20 post #92. This is exactly how it works and how I have hunted for a decade.Yeah we are discussing low light aren’t we? So surely the argument is that if you can’t see what the turrets are set at when they’re three inches from your face, is there enough light being transmitted through your scope to shoot the deer you’re looking at?
Potentially, potentially not. Just food for thought.
Just thought I’d make the point that it’s about knowing your gear. There’s a lot of talk about ‘I had a turret move on me during a stalk’ etc. They don’t move anywhere on their own. Would it not be prudent for those stalking with exposed turrets to always have that curtesy check to ensure they are correctly set before each shot? No offence intended. Merely making a point.
So just for clarity, are you saying that people would care more about animals they are shooting at over people?
A problem shared is a problem halved and all thatAnd you may have just cost me a lot of money. The 3-12X50 model has just landed in the shopping list.
As have I.I will ignore your last sentence. I believe I have made my point.
Because in the heat of the moment on very last visible light when you are waiting for the stag to come out of the shadows and present a shot, when he does you may, just may, not check the turret especially if you have already checked it twice during the day. We had a jog to get to where the deer were emerging and I suspect it was then that the turret turned by rubbing on my back either that or getting in and out of the slip/truck.Snipers seem to manage fine in the field with all manner of exposed turrets?
Why not just check they are correctly set before a shot?![]()
Where do you aim for 220?I use Swarovski PV 3-12x50 with the TDS Plex reticule so I can accurately adjust for range without any mechanical adjustment. That said I almost never stalk past 150m but I’ve tested it on steel out to 450 and it just works.
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Where do you aim for 220?

Then came to his senses and kept it???There was a chap on here selling the best low light and all round stalking scope the other day, lockable zero stop elevation turret, illuminated ret etc. An S&B Stratos 2.5-13x56......
My first rifle was in 1989 when I was a 22 year old youngster on a budget. After seeking advice, I bought a PH 1200 in .308 and an S&B 8x56. Back then the S&B was considered an entry-level quality scope. I think that's still a pretty fair description. It was a good, tough, workaday scope, though basic and I didn't like the fat reticle. But today there are better scopes for the money. (I have a steel-tubed 25mm Meopta 6X42 and for the price the optics are exceptional).When I bought my first rifle and scope it was a Schmidt & Bender 8x56. That was in 1996! And it was by no means the premiere league. The top scopes at the time were by Zeiss and Swarovski. Schmidt & Bender was only second choice. Also a fixed magnification was already outdated at that time. I soon parted with it and replaced it with a 3-12x56 Zeiss VM and later the 2,5-10x50 models.
I have no idea why the Schmidt & Bender 8x56 is so popular in the UK. On the continent I don't know a single person who uses or would use such an antique item.