I am delighted to find someone else who uses this Swaro: I have one on my .308, and it suits my woodland/lowland stalking perfectlyi use a swaro 1-8 x 24 on my 204 until I swap it over to thermal when really dark and its a gooden, don’t be put off by size - glass, reticule and pin fd illumination are the key factors
I was dubious about putting on a 204 until I zeroed it, the 8 x is fantastic, it was only supposed to be until I freed up the zenith off another rifle, still gets good use and super accurate piece of kit, I purchased that one and 1-6 for boar shooting pre covid which just didn’t happen and they were just sitting on the shelf, now ones on a hornet and other on the 204 where they will stay, decent bit of kit, for woodland it’s top drawerI am delighted to find someone else who uses this Swaro: I have one on my .308, and it suits my woodland/lowland stalking perfectly
Watch this review. around 300 quid.What’s the best scope in low light for general stalking?
Depends.... what velocities do you need? How much extra powder will it need and can that be achieved by different powder selection in 308? In a target / sniping barrel easily achieve in excess of 3000fps MV (Labradar). In a 20” sporter 2650. Both are fairly irrelevant, as it is at the POI where it counts.The .308 is a great cartridge for sure, but the extra 100-150 fps that the 30-06 provides still has its advantages, no?
Probably because it works without being too fancy or expensive. Great glass and point and shoot, but heavy…..When I bought my first rifle and scope it was a Schmidt & Bender 8x56. That was in 1996! And it was by no means the premiere league. The top scopes at the time were by Zeiss and Swarovski. Schmidt & Bender was only second choice. Also a fixed magnification was already outdated at that time. I soon parted with it and replaced it with a 3-12x56 Zeiss VM and later the 2,5-10x50 models.
I have no idea why the Schmidt & Bender 8x56 is so popular in the UK. On the continent I don't know a single person who uses or would use such an antique item.
Love the zenith from S&B - bomb proof, I stick with FD7 ret combined with the illuminated reticule and clear glassProbably because it works without being too fancy or expensive. Great glass and point and shoot, but heavy…..
Nor betating the Zeiss 7x42 BGAT*P*. A practically unused pair of these will more than outperform most other binoculars currently on the market. Even 20+ year old ones that have not buggered perform very very well.If the point of the post was to highlight the improved utility of recently developed products compared to older ones (with the implication that some people use ‘old stuff’ without objective justification) then the choice of 7x57/6.5x55/30-06 as examples was hardly wise.
That’s all quite true.Depends.... what velocities do you need? How much extra powder will it need and can that be achieved by different powder selection in 308? In a target / sniping barrel easily achieve in excess of 3000fps MV (Labradar). In a 20” sporter 2650. Both are fairly irrelevant, as it is at the POI where it counts.
Plus a short action vs long action..... do you also need a longer barrel to optimally burn all that powder stuffed in the case?
There is a reason militaries stopped using 30-06. Powder technological advancements will enable efficient cartridge designs.
Will 30-06 do the job? Yes. Just not as efficiently. And the 308 is not as efficient as other later designs.
To the OP- glass has moved on, and you probably dont need to follow the advice I had when starting; put a scope of equal value to the rifle its going on. Match that spend on binos. It definitely worked .... but coatings technology has markedly improved.
Go for a scope with excellent reliability and after sales service. I own two swaros, a minox and a SWFA, plus a NF for other work. Ive shot as many deer with the minox than all but one other scope put together.
I have a Zenith 2.5-10 x 56 FD7 on my Fox rifleLove the zenith from S&B - bomb proof, I stick with FD7 ret combined with the illuminated reticule and clear glass
decent bit of faultless kit, like you say no frills and does the job in hand very well, I have a zeiss v8 with calibrated ASV and it works perfectly, but can’t say I’d miss it if it didn’t work.
i don’t mind a basic well made scope with a decent bit of glass and IR, not a lover of gimmicks especially nowadays with market overflowing with gadgets
( I use the t ceptor with external battery and within that is a recording facility- it’s never been used) the actual scope is phenomenal for what I do the, same with day scopes, buy what suits you, if your a gadget man you can do yourself out of a decent scope if you look through rose tinted glasses, my advice FWIW buy the best glass as a base you can get with variable mag to suit your shooting if you can get one with a variable dot and illumination shouldn’t be a need to change it
For sensible money I’ve never found anything better than a 8x56 Schmidt and Bender. It’s what they are specifically designed for.
8x56 was designed for shooting boar by moonlight. Over here, it caught on as a foxing scope, whereas a 6x42 (or 4x32) was recommended as a stalking scope… Nowadays a 3-12 or 4-16x56 will do the job of both, albeit in a much heavier, more expensive, but often shorter, package. Just need that comb raising!I can’t agree that an 8X56 fixed power is the best for woodland stalking. Yes, it matches the specification of most binoculars used by stalkers but as some 85% of the deer I shoot in woodland are terminated at under 50 yards (I like to stalk my deer rather than shoot from an elevated armchair) 8-power is simply too much magnification.
Just my view of course and further informed by the reality an 8-power fixed mag scope has its parallax set at 100 yards with no ability to adjust.
K
nightforce are rubbish in low light in my experiance ( i shot with one in comp and sold it fast afterwards ) Big ass thing i was but low light performance very poor compated to my S+BendersNightforce ?
The NXS series are gash in low light, the ATACR and NX8 are a lot better, but they'd not be on my list for a low light hunting scope. The reason I use them is the quality of build and repeatability of tracking. Its an S&B on my main stalking rifle though.nightforce are rubbish in low light in my experiance ( i shot with one in comp and sold it fast afterwards ) Big ass thing i was but low light performance very poor compated to my S+Benders
its not better for light but a bigger tube is better for the extremes of adjustment , that's the only benefit to any tube greater than 1" put a load of windage in and you can limit elevation true travel . objective lens size and quality of glass and coatings are what really matter but are limited by the human eyeball in question ( i cannot expect to get as much light through in my 50s as i did in my twenties) , as i get closer to my sixties the optician changes my prescription each year just a little bit . stalking wise , i dont remember putting in 6 MOA windage ( because i would just get closer under such conditions) so guess that's mute eh?I’d love someone to explain why a 34mm tube is a prerequisite for the ultimate light gathering scope.
K
Because S&B only put their T96 glass in scopes with a 34mm tubeI’d love someone to explain why a 34mm tube is a prerequisite for the ultimate light gathering scope.
K
Don't think the 34mm tube has anything to dk with the light gathering but ive tried the polar against all the top stuff and it comes up to for me compared side buy side the only thing i wish it had is the option for a asv + style turretsBecause S&B only put their T96 glass in scopes with a 34mm tube![]()
Yes, I am aware of the science behind optics design & manufacture but it was simply my preferred and obtuse manner in which to observe a 34mm tube is wholly unnecessary in a woodland deerstalking scope. Or put another way the greater crosshair adjustment afforded by a 34mm tube is unnecessary in such a scope IMHO.its not better for light but a bigger tube is better for the extremes of adjustment , that's the only benefit to any tube greater than 1" put a load of windage in and you can limit elevation true travel . objective lens size and quality of glass and coatings are what really matter but are limited by the human eyeball in question ( i cannot expect to get as much light through in my 50s as i did in my twenties) , as i get closer to my sixties the optician changes my prescription each year just a little bit . stalking wise , i dont remember putting in 6 MOA windage ( because i would just get closer under such conditions) so guess that's mute eh?