CWD Scoring?

wildfowler.250

Well-Known Member
I shot a CWD this weekend which should go silver. I was told that you can get the deer scored once it has been mounted by the taxidermist. I would have thought that the deer would have to be scored and then mounted as I could easily ask the taxidermist to pull the tusks down a bit so it would make a gold?

Either way I'm not too worried as it's going to the taxidermist's first anyway but was just curious.
 
To score cwd the whole teeth have to be removed from the skull
the taxidermist can mount the deer and the teeth can be put in once measured
regards andy
 
Thanks Andy!


I'll probably give him a ring and ask if he knows anyone locally,(I'm sure he will) and try and get it measured before he has it mounted.


Cheers for the help!
 
No problem mate
The taxidermist can take the teeth out no problem as long as he doesn't damage them
When you get it scored they measure the whole length and the diameter and as its just a pair of teeth they are very easy to post to a measurer and if you need someone to cic measure it you can find them on cic site but I usually use Charles Fen
Once the teeth are measured its quite easy for taxidermist to put them into your mount if he makes an allowance for them
when he does don't get him to hang the teeth right out as I've seen some mounted like that and they look pathetic
Regards andy
 
Thanks Andy,


Im expecting a call from the taxidermist when he receives the capes so I'll ask him to take the teeth out while the mount is getting set up. I know what you mean about not putting the teeth back in fully,(doesn't look good!).


Cheers for all the info!
 
I believe a few taxidermists will make you up a replica set of your ones teeth as well. Even with a big gold medal, you'll be amazed at how little of the tusks even shows when mounted.
 
I believe a few taxidermists will make you up a replica set of your ones teeth as well. Even with a big gold medal, you'll be amazed at how little of the tusks even shows when mounted.

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. Not sure what I'd do with the real ones of they weren't on the mount though? Probably just stick them in a drawer :lol:
 
Replica teeth are easy to make, or you can purchase a set from Mackenzies Taxidermy supplies in the USA. This means you can have your shoulder mount and also mount the skull with the original teeth seperate. You can also get a very nice hardwood display stand to mount the skull on.
 
Thats a nice way of doing it.
Have you considered polishing the skull first?
I've got a couple of polished ones that look really nice and its not that big a job to do.
TO be honest on my big gold medal I decided to polish it rather then have it mounted as I dont think mounting does the canines justice
 
I believe a few taxidermists will make you up a replica set of your ones teeth as well. Even with a big gold medal, you'll be amazed at how little of the tusks even shows when mounted.
Does much of the teeth stick out when they are alive ?
I think that's why you could have hell of a shock if you only want to shoot a representative animal BANG............you've shot a medal £250 please lol

Saw my first chink on fri in Suffolk !
 
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i phone 176.webp
as you can see in this photo of a juvanile cwd just how much of the tooth was visible but when teeth were extracted you can see once mature it would have been a very good one
the teeth are in the jaw and slowly grow down until animal is roughly 2 years old and once it reaches this age they stop
the animal in photo was taken as a representative and charged as such
we estimate trophy quality before shot is taken and if we make a mistake then its our fault
most golds we shoot score highly because if client specifically wants gold we find the largest we can
regards andy
 
I only take guests on my bit, so guessing accurately isnt really necessary, but I always reckon that if the tucks protrudes past the bottom jaw its probably going to pick up a medal.
CWD i'm surprised that stop growing that young. I was under the impression they carried on with some growth until the nerve into the tooth receded and that little opening closed up. I'm looking at a big gold 226CIC which is still open and we aged that at about 4-5.
 
No I think once animal is mature then the tooth has stopped growing just the same as most other mammals
some people think the tooth just keeps growing but I have monitored cwd from kids up until they were shot and most are as big as they will get by the age of about two
cic were having talks on this subject but I don't know what the outcome was
regards andy
 
Hi CWD, I read your views with interest. I'm not sure about the thing with most mammals teeth stop growing at maturity, masses carry on growing and length impacted by wear. I suspect only way of checking it out is by tagging buck fawns and monitoring them.

SS try polishing them with a dremmel as well, they look much better like that.
 
hi southdowns
its a stainless steel tube glued into the base and the skull was drilled for tube to go into
the medal was just placed against the tube
i will say boiling and cleaning cwd skulls is a delicate job as they are quite fragile

sws
ok i can see where your coming from regards mammals teeth but cwd teeth only grow untill mature the same as our teeth do
we dont reach 80 years of age and have teeth down to your waist do we ?
like i have said iv spent a lot of time with these charming deer and know of one buck with one good tooth and one broken one who is 5 years old and his teeth have not grown any more in the last three years
i think this is why so many cwd make gold every year because unlike a roebuck that needs maybe 5 years to make gold a cwd can go gold at two years of age
regards andy
 
Andy
Thanks.
i've stalked them for years, but only in the last three years have I had anywhere where I can actively manage them. I've only shot big golds which were middle aged and big body weights, but do see a lot of high quality younger bucks. Which would seem to support your theory. I presume the older they get the greater the wear on the teeth and the more chances that they will snap/be worn down.
What optics do you use for assessing them? I've got a Zeiss Field Spotter but find it useless for the task!
Thanks
SWS
 
Hi sws
Now is the best time to age your bucks as the rut has just started on my areas and older bucks have been chasing the younger bucks all over the place for the last week or so
I use a Swarovski spotting scope if I am just observing or counting etc and when I have clients I usually use a 22-250 rifle with a large 12-42-56 nightforce scope on top which is fine for assessing bucks if the light is good but once evening comes I just use my Swarovski binoculars but you have to get quite close
I have noticed over the years that if you take a good buck from a certain area early on in the rut it will normally soon be replaced with another
if you take a look on team wilds website you will see Ian Harford take a gold with me
Regards andy
 
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