Difference between mounts…

gixer1

Well-Known Member
Has anyone got much experience with differences in MOA of two sets of mounts of the same type?

The situation is as follows - I use Leupold QD/QR mounts - which are excellent and true return to zero…however, I’ve just changes from one scope to another with the same type of mounts, and I’ve found from zero at 100 yards I only have 10/11 MOA of elevation adjustment left which puts me at around 560 yards…absolutely fine for furry things - way further than I should even need to shoot at stalking…however, when shooting at paper/targets I had to basically use the change is post thickness as my aiming point to hit a gong at 600 which is a bit annoying…

So, do I try the same brand/type mounts and swap them from the old scope to the new one hoping the variance is enough to give me a bit more adjustment?

As the front and rear rings are the same fit would it be worth swapping front to rear and rear to front?

Regards,
Gixer
 
Was the new scope optically centred before you zeroed it? IE, did it have equal adjustment up and down for elevation? (If you bought it secondhand it may have been zeroed to the previous owner’s rifle and therefore didn’t have the full adjustment range).

If it was, then it’s worth swapping the rings back to front to see if that makes a difference!
 
Was the new scope optically centred before you zeroed it? IE, did it have equal adjustment up and down for elevation? (If you bought it secondhand it may have been zeroed to the previous owner’s rifle and therefore didn’t have the full adjustment range).

If it was, then it’s worth swapping the rings back to front to see if that makes a difference!
Surely the adjustment of the scope before mounting wouldn’t change anything as you are still going to have to adjust it back to where your rifle is zeroed when it’s mounted….I.e.- the position of the reticle within the range of adjustment will be the same?
 
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Sounds to me like you’ll need an inclined rail / or a scope with further internal adjustment to get further than your 560.

Dialling for a maximum of 560 in a normal cartridge from a flat rail and a normal hunting scope seems fairly usual.

I think that what @Dr. Strangelove might be getting at is if your zero stop (if your scope has one) is the limiting factor? Potentially meaning your scales have been slipped to not allow more adjustment range if you’re confident there is more internal travel than you’re getting?
The zero stop will be the limit on the low end of the elevation but the upper end is the end of the turrets travel/adjustment.
 
That would be what we used to call…”Kentucky windage”…..and it still works, although it’d be nicer to just dial it in,,,,
Yep that’s what I have called it for the last half century or more; then I was corrected by an SD chap but I was so impressed with the new term I instantly forgot it! I think it may have been another state’s name so that narrows it down considerably.
You are welcome!
🦊🦊
 
Yep that’s what I have called it for the last half century or more; then I was corrected by an SD chap but I was so impressed with the new term I instantly forgot it! I think it may have been another state’s name so that narrows it down considerably.
You are welcome!
🦊🦊
Well…I never…..I guess I was using Kentucky windage and some Arkansas elevation….
 
I could be wrong but my understanding is that if it’s not been centred after use then after you’ve zeroed it then there will be less elevation available to you, hence only getting ~11MOA of elevation.

Not related to original question (more info provided on the type of scope) but to clarify:

Yes there are some scopes, traditional hunting style with covered turrets, that only offer part of the physical adjustment range to user. So you only have a "window" of actual adjustment range at any given time. Usually this "window" is finger adjustable clicks, and you can move the "window" by fiddling with screws in the turrets.

Another take on the subject is S&B indicators, i.e. kind of clock style thingy on top of turret that has one arm and it's pointing to either green (central adjustment range) or red (either end of range). So the customer knows whether he's using the preferable middle range where optical quality is better (less distortions etc)
 
I don’t think there is an option to centre on a Z8 after mounting - you remove the zero stop and have the adjustment within that range.

I have a couple of sets of the same rings which I will try to see if one set ends up with more of a front down position.

Regards,
Gixer
 
Scopes rarely zero at the or near the centre of range
When I built a two ring inclined system using optilocks, an increase of 0.75mm equated to 42 MOA elevation

Its not inconceivable that the tolerances in one set of rings and the scope in them are setting your zero at the extreme of the turret range

Swap them round and hope that one is higher
 
Scopes rarely zero at the or near the centre of range
When I built a two ring inclined system using optilocks, an increase of 0.75mm equated to 42 MOA elevation

Its not inconceivable that the tolerances in one set of rings and the scope in them are setting your zero at the extreme of the turret range

Swap them round and hope that one is higher
That’s the plan, to either swap the rings round or swap to a same type but different set…in all fairness for the handful of occasions I need more than 550 yards it’s not a big deal but nice to know I have the option.

Regards,
Gixer
 
That’s the plan, to either swap the rings round or swap to a same type but different set…in all fairness for the handful of occasions I need more than 550 yards it’s not a big deal but nice to know I have the option.

Regards,
Gixer
Just go full retard tacticool... you've got the beard anyway ?
 
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