Extraction with an e-bike - anyone tried it?

Simple really just get a big barrel-mine was an ex pheasant hopper-jigsaw in half, couple of holes wide spread for a drag, I improvised a neck/head securing option with the bungees. Not pretty but it works. A plastic sledge would work, and Bushwear do some custom built jobs-quite expensive. Also look a stirling gundogs on here, he does lovely extraction sleds.

I think for roe this should do. Reds are a different kettle of fish, and really need mechanisation if you want to avoid a chiropractor
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Simple really just get a big barrel-mine was an ex pheasant hopper-jigsaw in half, couple of holes wide spread for a drag, I improvised a neck/head securing option with the bungees. Not pretty but it works. A plastic sledge would work, and Bushwear do some custom built jobs-quite expensive. Also look a stirling gundogs on here, he does lovely extraction sleds.
Excellent. Thanks. I'd envisaged putting the attachment points at the open/neck end and using the base to stop anything slipping out at the back, and can now see that that wouldn't have worked half as well. Believe it or not, my ongoing ebike musings notwithstanding, I like simple/cheap/free solutions and -as it happens- I have just such a drum to hand. :cool:
 
As things stand, and all other helpful suggestions duly banked, my wish-list looks like this:
Lucky finds on eBay would ease the £ pain, but I remain distictly curious as to whether this would be a pleasingly effective addition to my inventory, or just a source of buyer's remorse.
 
As things stand, and all other helpful suggestions duly banked, my wish-list looks like this:
Lucky finds on eBay would ease the £ pain, but I remain distictly curious as to whether this would be a pleasingly effective addition to my inventory, or just a source of buyer's remorse.
What size of car boot do you have? The trailer and intended cargo is going to fill a bit of space.
 
The other way to dramatically reduce the load is to leave the bits you don’t eat in the field. Don’t bother gralloching. Slice down the centre spine. Take out the back straps and neck fillets. Keep peeling the skin. Take the shoulder and breast meat. Take off the haunches. Take the head for the trophy.

Your load is now about 10 to 12kgs which is easy enough on the knees.

Re lungs and covid. Just build strength steadily and slowly. There is no rush and no reason not to take a break. None of us are getting any younger. Most of us probably carrying a few extra lbs most of time - about the weight an AI 338 Lapua Magnum and large scope in many cases!!
 
The other way to dramatically reduce the load is to leave the bits you don’t eat in the field. Don’t bother gralloching. Slice down the centre spine. Take out the back straps and neck fillets. Keep peeling the skin. Take the shoulder and breast meat. Take off the haunches. Take the head for the trophy.

Your load is now about 10 to 12kgs which is easy enough on the knees.

Re lungs and covid. Just build strength steadily and slowly. There is no rush and no reason not to take a break. None of us are getting any younger. Most of us probably carrying a few extra lbs most of time - about the weight an AI 338 Lapua Magnum and large scope in many cases!!
Thankyou. All most excellent advice - and sincerely appreciated, especially re. fitness.

When the venison is for me, I strip the carcass in the field as you describe, and the resulting weight in the pack feels like satisfaction rather than a burden!

However, with few exceptions, the deer taken on this ground are destined for the butcher, who quite reasonably wants them in one piece.

I should say here that I don't want to appear to be complaining. I've got nothing to moan about. I'm massively privileged to have land to shoot on, deer to take, plenty of good kit, and sufficient fitness to make it all happen: I'm just trying to figure out ways to make the extraction swifter and less strenuous, so I can enjoy the whole outing and feel less clapped out afterwards!
 
What size of car boot do you have? The trailer and intended cargo is going to fill a bit of space.
Good point. I'm rather counting (in my imagined scenario) on being able to dismount the wheels and handle of the trailer for transport. That being the case, and if the advertised dimensions are accurate, the bin/frame will fit comfortably into in the back of the car with the rear seats folded flat. The bike would be outside on the rack, of course. If room is needed inside for multiple deer (happy days!), the trailer frame may have to go on the roof rack. It'll look daft, but the chiller is just a few miles of B road away, so everything can be re-stowed before heading for the motorway and home.

The #1 unknown as I see it is whether those e-bikes have what it takes to let one pedal them up a hill while pulling a trailer with a deer or two inside.
 
Good point. I'm rather counting (in my imagined scenario) on being able to dismount the wheels and handle of the trailer for transport. That being the case, and if the advertised dimensions are accurate, the bin/frame will fit comfortably into in the back of the car with the rear seats folded flat. The bike would be outside on the rack, of course. If room is needed inside for multiple deer (happy days!), the trailer frame may have to go on the roof rack. It'll look daft, but the chiller is just a few miles of B road away, so everything can be re-stowed before heading for the motorway and home.

The #1 unknown as I see it is whether those e-bikes have what it takes to let one pedal them up a hill while pulling a trailer with a deer or two inside.
My bike and trailer will tow a good 30kg+ up a 1 in 6 without me breaking a sweat....on a firm surface. The key is going to be tyres and ground, summer roebuck season I think it would be great, on our ground at the moment you would need a snorkel rather than good tyres.....
 
I have covered lots of miles with 40kg+ of children in one of these and spent a day riding one of these around the peak district. The electric part will be fine for what you need (common motor/battery packs made by Bosch and used in lots of ebikes). As suggested above, traction and weight could be an issue depending on the ground and tyres. Another issue, which may not be relevant to you, depending on where you want to use the ebike, is that pedal-assist bikes are fine to use as bicycles but the no-pedal ones (loved by the takeaway delivery guys), largely manufactured in the far east and sold online, are currently regulated as motorbikes. They don't meet the motorcycle safety rules so they can't be registered for use on the road and they can't be used as bikes so pretty much private land only. There isn't much enforcement at the moment but that may change...
 
Good point. I'm rather counting (in my imagined scenario) on being able to dismount the wheels and handle of the trailer for transport. That being the case, and if the advertised dimensions are accurate, the bin/frame will fit comfortably into in the back of the car with the rear seats folded flat. The bike would be outside on the rack, of course. If room is needed inside for multiple deer (happy days!), the trailer frame may have to go on the roof rack. It'll look daft, but the chiller is just a few miles of B road away, so everything can be re-stowed before heading for the motorway and home.

The #1 unknown as I see it is whether those e-bikes have what it takes to let one pedal them up a hill while pulling a trailer with a deer or two inside.
IMG_4797.jpegIMG_4798.jpeg69961950151__1384E87B-F7C6-4FD9-8944-54017A334D55.jpeg
 
The other way to dramatically reduce the load is to leave the bits you don’t eat in the field. Don’t bother gralloching. Slice down the centre spine. Take out the back straps and neck fillets. Keep peeling the skin. Take the shoulder and breast meat. Take off the haunches. Take the head for the trophy.

Your load is now about 10 to 12kgs which is easy enough on the knees.

Re lungs and covid. Just build strength steadily and slowly. There is no rush and no reason not to take a break. None of us are getting any younger. Most of us probably carrying a few extra lbs most of time - about the weight an AI 338 Lapua Magnum and large scope in many cases!!
Now that's an interesting way of doing things.
 
I think someone else mentioned it, I like the idea of an electric wheelbarrow. But you will still be walking. An electric mini dumper, you could probably ride…risk assessment permitting of course.
 
I think someone else mentioned it, I like the idea of an electric wheelbarrow. But you will still be walking. An electric mini dumper, you could probably ride…risk assessment permitting of course.

I don't like the rear wheel arrangement but at that price I could feel a modification coming on :-|
 
Hi,
I bought a Honda one of these in the 1980s and it’s been brilliant.
Initially bought to transport welding equipment around construction sites but we soon made attachments for it and found lots of other uses.
Still running today.
Ken.
Ps.
We made a stand on tender to drag behind this, prob to much H&S now.
 

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I don't like the rear wheel arrangement but at that price I could feel a modification coming on :-|
A neat idea but limited run-time and transportability probably leave it outside my (admittedly somewhat niche) use case.
 
I have covered lots of miles with 40kg+ of children in one of these and spent a day riding one of these around the peak district. The electric part will be fine for what you need (common motor/battery packs made by Bosch and used in lots of ebikes). As suggested above, traction and weight could be an issue depending on the ground and tyres. Another issue, which may not be relevant to you, depending on where you want to use the ebike, is that pedal-assist bikes are fine to use as bicycles but the no-pedal ones (loved by the takeaway delivery guys), largely manufactured in the far east and sold online, are currently regulated as motorbikes. They don't meet the motorcycle safety rules so they can't be registered for use on the road and they can't be used as bikes so pretty much private land only. There isn't much enforcement at the moment but that may change...
Really useful info. Thanks.

The legal bit obviously matters. At present I'm looking at using the bike exclusively off-road, however. From what I've seen, those models with motors of over 250W are typically electronically restricted to 250W but can be "unlocked" and "re-locked" easily as required. The main differentiating factor, therefore, appears to be the presence or absence of a grip or lever throttle.
 
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