Alt+0216
Look up Alt codes for the different symbols - makes life easy.
I think it's Alt+0176 for degree symbol.
Flash hole deburring
- Thread starter Utectok
- Start date
Look up Alt codes for the different symbols - makes life easy.
I think it's Alt+0176 for degree symbol.
I used to do this. K&M tool.
Came to the conclusion it was pointless (lapua brass).
The most important factor (IMO) is case volume, ergo pressure. Half a grain of powder charge difference doesnt make noticeable difference to 600 yds. Case volume does.
If I were to compete in benchrest I might consider it, but the time taken to prep cases for TR/MR is certainly better spent on the range training.
Came to the conclusion it was pointless (lapua brass).
The most important factor (IMO) is case volume, ergo pressure. Half a grain of powder charge difference doesnt make noticeable difference to 600 yds. Case volume does.
If I were to compete in benchrest I might consider it, but the time taken to prep cases for TR/MR is certainly better spent on the range training.
Ø is simply produced by alt shift O on a Mac keyboard. It works across the board of text input applications like Word.
The other way is to just use shift and then hold the letter O down and the various accents are offered so you just choose the one you want. Without the shift you just get the lower case version ø it is just quicker to use alt shift O
The other one I use regularly is the degree symbol as in 40˚C, which is alt k
Just holding the key to get the alternatives works on all the characters, mainly the vowels, which have options.
Alan
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Your post contains contradictory statements.
The purpose of the tool is to remove the burrs and uniform the length of the flash hole. The boss specifically controls the depth of cut of the chamfer and therefore the length of the flash hole.
The boss would be superfluous and a reamer or drill would be the tool used to uniform the flash hole diameter as @Laurie posted earlier.
Yes agreed. The boss prevents you from cutting too deeply into the case head and thus sets the length of the flash hole.
The tip is undersize and does not affect the Ø2mm flash hole diameter no matter how far through it goes.
But you will have to argue with Lyman as to the purpose of their tool not me...
Alan
The purpose of the tool is to remove the burrs and uniform the length of the flash hole. The boss specifically controls the depth of cut of the chamfer and therefore the length of the flash hole.
The boss would be superfluous and a reamer or drill would be the tool used to uniform the flash hole diameter as @Laurie posted earlier.
Yes agreed. The boss prevents you from cutting too deeply into the case head and thus sets the length of the flash hole.
The tip is undersize and does not affect the Ø2mm flash hole diameter no matter how far through it goes.
But you will have to argue with Lyman as to the purpose of their tool not me...
Alan
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enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
Never done it. The only things I do to flash holes is use a simple, cheap, slot head screwdriver ground to the exact diameter of the hole to twist out the residue of a previously fired primer or when using military cases a tool to remove the primer pocket crimp.
Steff
Well-Known Member
Now I see what you mean by the „length of the flash hole“.
But depending on the thickness of the case head this will lead to chamfers of different degrees, which is not desirable - so I have read.
Therefore I don‘t use the boss. I also have two of these tools. I just do it by feel and remove the burrs only trying not to produce s chamfer at all.
As to the flash hole diameter, I don‘t know which brand cases you use, but on all of my casa (Lapua, Norma, RWS) the reduced front bit will only enter the holes with some force and a twist of the wrist.
I am currently using Lapua cases, but haven't used the Lyman tool on any of them as they were burr free.
I have just tried putting the Lyman tool tip into the flash hole from the primer pocket direction on a couple of the Lapua cases and it does just drop in without interference...which at Ø1.93mm I would expect.
You might try a few from the primer pocket direction in case you were being mislead by resistance from the burr? Rotate it anti-clockwise to centre and prevent lockup or snagging as it is a twin cutter bit.
But it maybe that your cases do just have a smaller diameter flash hole?
Alan
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One of the few things I think is important in reloading is uniform ignition. I will beburr cases that have had the flash hole punched rather than drilled. I only take off the burrs which I believe are heat sinks for the primer charge. If it does no good, then it has done no harm. It's a one time operation and you would be shocked at the amount of brass that comes from just removing the burrs on 50 cases. Luckily, makers are going away from punching flash holes. ~Muir
(Of course, if Brian Litz has found it harms accuracy then I should immediately cease deburring cases and should destroy those which I have done.)
(Of course, if Brian Litz has found it harms accuracy then I should immediately cease deburring cases and should destroy those which I have done.)
Litz , in the video , saw a larger ES in the deburred examples on this occasion, he drew no conclusion other than to suggest experiment for ones self .
Has anyone actually seen a measurable improvement in accuracy after deburring and chamfering flash holes ?
Has anyone actually seen a measurable improvement in accuracy after deburring and chamfering flash holes ?
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Utectok
Well-Known Member
I think this is the point ! Does it actually make any differenceLitz , in the video , saw a larger ES in the deburred examples on this occasion, he drew no conclusion other than to suggest experiment for ones self .
Has anyone actually seen a measurable improvement in accuracy after deburring and chamfering flash holes ?
ChesterP
Well-Known Member
I also use the Lyman tool and for the sake of doing it once and it's done, figured it did no harm. I also use the Lyman case prep station which makes the most hated job (for me anyway) less of a chore, and that has the primer pocket uniformer in it which also doubles as a pocket cleaner (at least now it does for me as I lost one of the pocket cleaning tools!).
The thing to bear in mind is unless ALL of your cases are within 1 thou length, it may have the opposite effect on ES why perhaps explains Brian Litz's findings? I use a sinclair hand lathe with micrometer settings but not all is as it appears as even this "precision" tool is flawed. You can vary case length by as much as 5 thou with the exact same micrometer setting unless you apply exactly the same cutting pressure with the handle, which is difficult, if not impossible to do.
These days, I simply apply gentle pressure and get cases generally within 2 thou of one another which is plenty good enough for reloading constantly BUT the flash hole uniforming I only do with brand new cases after checking the batches to within a thou on case length. I separate and trim down longer cases (they do vary from batch to batch a little). TBH, if using Sake, Norma or Lapua, I rarely bother. It's just one more rabbit hole to go down. It also means if you buy once fired brass and don't bother checking they're all trimmed to the exact same length, you end up with flash holes probably LESS uniform than they started out at
Some target shooters lose sleep over these things. The difference to deer shooting makes it pretty superfluous unless as Muir points out, the holes are punched which can result in inconsistent ignition. I used to have a Ducati which had that problem....
The thing to bear in mind is unless ALL of your cases are within 1 thou length, it may have the opposite effect on ES why perhaps explains Brian Litz's findings? I use a sinclair hand lathe with micrometer settings but not all is as it appears as even this "precision" tool is flawed. You can vary case length by as much as 5 thou with the exact same micrometer setting unless you apply exactly the same cutting pressure with the handle, which is difficult, if not impossible to do.
These days, I simply apply gentle pressure and get cases generally within 2 thou of one another which is plenty good enough for reloading constantly BUT the flash hole uniforming I only do with brand new cases after checking the batches to within a thou on case length. I separate and trim down longer cases (they do vary from batch to batch a little). TBH, if using Sake, Norma or Lapua, I rarely bother. It's just one more rabbit hole to go down. It also means if you buy once fired brass and don't bother checking they're all trimmed to the exact same length, you end up with flash holes probably LESS uniform than they started out at
Some target shooters lose sleep over these things. The difference to deer shooting makes it pretty superfluous unless as Muir points out, the holes are punched which can result in inconsistent ignition. I used to have a Ducati which had that problem....
Gad! Me too!! ~Muir
My expoerience of Winchester brass is that went downhill some years back and flash-holes since that time have been really dire. Off-centre, oversize, and sometimes nothing like round - more like a long narrow slash. Burrs too yes, but a minor issue nowadays when the basics are poor. Of the two main US makes, R-P is now far better made IME / IMO.
@Muir might have views though as he'll see far more Winchester brass in more cartridges than I do.
Ducati? Ignition problems?
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ChesterP
Well-Known Member
It was a tongue in cheek joke Laurie. Ducati are an Italian Motorbike brand, notorious in the 1970's and 1980's for terrible electrics!
Yes, I'd heard similar about Winchester but gather that other makes are equally as bad. I tried some Hornady a few years ago and wasn't impressed with those. Primer pockets came loose within a couple of (not overly hot) reloads. I've had to uniform PPU cases' flash holes which in one specific batch were pretty dire. It was those that prompted me to buy the Lyman tool as most of that batch contained internal burrs on the flash holes. These days I stick with Lapua. Pricy but worth the extra for the amount of reloads and their finish and consistency.
Yes, I'd heard similar about Winchester but gather that other makes are equally as bad. I tried some Hornady a few years ago and wasn't impressed with those. Primer pockets came loose within a couple of (not overly hot) reloads. I've had to uniform PPU cases' flash holes which in one specific batch were pretty dire. It was those that prompted me to buy the Lyman tool as most of that batch contained internal burrs on the flash holes. These days I stick with Lapua. Pricy but worth the extra for the amount of reloads and their finish and consistency.
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