Husqvarna Chainsaw Dripping Oil

[Oly]

Some may recall recently I posted a thread about what saw to get. Well, I bought a used Husqvarna 353 (essentially a 346xp with different cylinder design) on the basis of doesn't have the engine management system etc of new saws to go wrong. I'm very happy with the saw, but it seems to drip oil more than I'm used to...

I'm aware that after use you often get oil draining from the bar and behind the guide plate, but this seemed a bit more excessive. So as a precaution I replaced the oil pick up tube and guide plate.

After test running it seemed to drop less oil but it was still more than I expected so I drained the oil tank and it stopped pretty quick. Refill the oil tank, but not run the saw and it drips as the three photos below.

Some say that an amount of oil dripping is normal. Others drain the tank every time. Is the oil dropping I've described above reasonable?

I'm wondering if I'll continue to chase my tail on this and whether I should either accept it, or just bite the bullet and get a new 550xp...but then I'd be gutted if it did the same anyway...so advice/experiences from other husky owners would be appreciated.

 

[jcampbellsmith]

I have the same saw and no drip issues. I never drain the oil. I've found this forum very helpful on power tool questions.

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Regards
JCS

 

[User00035]

Some may recall recently I posted a thread about what saw to get. Well, I bought a used Husqvarna 353 (essentially a 346xp with different cylinder design) on the basis of doesn't have the engine management system etc of new saws to go wrong. I'm very happy with the saw, but it seems to drip oil more than I'm used to...

I'm aware that after use you often get oil draining from the bar and behind the guide plate, but this seemed a bit more excessive. So as a precaution I replaced the oil pick up tube and guide plate.

After test running it seemed to drop less oil but it was still more than I expected so I drained the oil tank and it stopped pretty quick. Refill the oil tank, but not run the saw and it drips as the three photos below.

Some say that an amount of oil dripping is normal. Others drain the tank every time. Is the oil dropping I've described above reasonable?

I'm wondering if I'll continue to chase my tail on this and whether I should either accept it, or just bite the bullet and get a new 550xp...but then I'd be gutted if it did the same anyway...so advice/experiences from other husky owners would be appreciated.

I noticed my 365 SP was leaving a bigger pool of oil behind than usual which was making a mess in the back of my truck. When I bought a 550XP that was doing it as well. There is nothing wrong with either of them, though the 365 was over-oiling somewhat so I turned the screw down and that reduced it. I've since put it down to the oil I've been using. I bought a gallon of Mole Valley's own brand chain oil when I got caught short running out and it was all I could find nearby. I noticed it was much thinner than the Stihl or Groundforce I usually use as the wind was blowing it about when refilling and I was getting more fling on my trousers.

Pooling oil doesn't necessarily have to be a leak. It could be seeping out of the bar and from the gunk behind the drive cover. the thin stuff works and will do the job but I'm pretty sure that when I go back to better quality thicker oil there'll be less seepage.

 

[countrryboy]

Absolute cracking saws them, wish i had a few more.

Not had it on a 353 but on 372's , if u have replaced the oil pipe which often split with age is a common fault.

Do u have any idea where abouts its coming from? Is it coming out the side where the bar mounts, possiblya seal missing for oil pump or faulty oil pump or from the very bottom of the saw?

If the bottom chances are the gasket so u'd have to split the saw. Can be a bugger of a job if u don't really know wot ur doing or have the right tools for splitting it.

Mibbee easiest just living with it and buying some refuelling nappy and sit ur saw on that or store it in a plastic box/tub and chuck a bit of sawdust/wood chips in the bottom, for a while.
I always carry my combi cans in a plastic tub to stop the oil going everywhere and keep them upright, for a while i done the same with my saws and cut a slot in both ends so i could stick the bars out, only the powerheads in the tub

 

[User00035]

If it's leaking it will continue and eventually empty the tank. Check the level after a long lie-up. If it's seeping the tank level won't change.

 

[Oly]

Do u have any idea where abouts its coming from? Is it coming out the side where the bar mounts, possibly a seal missing for oil pump or faulty oil pump or from the very bottom of the saw?

It's coming out of the side where the bar mounts. I've just laid it up open to see if it helps pinpoint the problem

 

[icedog]

While I realize this post will be of no help at all, I must say that I have owned a few chainsaws over the years, and have never had a one that did not leak oil. Probably the worst is an older, but very lightly used Craftsman (branded by Sears, but no idea who really made it). When not in use, it is stored in a hard plastic case, and every time I do use the saw, I have to mop up all the oil slopping around in the bottom of the case. As messy and annoying as that is, it has never seemed to have any impact on the functioning of the saw ... guess I've just learned to live with it.

 

[foxdropper]

Get yourself an airline on that crud .Only then will you see where the oil is coming from .I’ll wager a gasket .

 

[User00033]

Get yourself an airline on that crud .Only then will you see where the oil is coming from .I’ll wager a gasket .

Unlikely to be a gasket.

@Oly the Husqvarna saws will leak from the oil line when sitting, specifically the rubber hose where it connects to the oil pump. It’s annoying and messy and often intermittent. The easiest way to stop it temporarily is to turn the saw and lie it on the fuel / oil tank side. Over the years I’ve used several Husqvarna saws that will do this, oftentimes on older saws it will be because the bar oil is too thin, and switching to a stickier, more viscous grade fixes the problem. Thin oil in hot weather is bad for it.

Google is your friend. There are several good “how to” videos on YouTube like the one below, which has step-by-step instruction common to most small saws. Then there are the parts diagrams that show each saw in detail, where you can get part numbers. I did this job recently on two 340s I have here, also a good time to replace the worn and munted guide plates and give the saws a general spruce up.

You need to triple check the hose against pics on Google as there was a change on the 353 at some point, a v.1 hose and then a v.2 hose.

 

[kenbro]

I have a small different make chain saw, only run about 3 hours and that leaks a fair amount of oil when in use.
Ken.

 

[Oly]

Get yourself an airline on that crud .Only then will you see where the oil is coming from .I’ll wager a gasket .

I've replaced the oil hose and guide plate. Which other gaskets on that side are there? That crud is welded on, scraping with a screwdriver isn't even shifting it!

Unlikely to be a gasket.

@Oly the Husqvarna saws will leak from the oil line when sitting, specifically the rubber hose where it connects to the oil pump. It’s annoying and messy and often intermittent. The easiest way to stop it temporarily is to turn the saw and lie it on the fuel / oil tank side. Over the years I’ve used several Husqvarna saws that will do this, oftentimes on older saws it will be because the bar oil is too thin, and switching to a stickier, more viscous grade fixes the problem. Thin oil in hot weather is bad for it.

Google is your friend. There are several good “how to” videos on YouTube like the one below, which has step-by-step instruction common to most small saws. Then there are the parts diagrams that show each saw in detail, where you can get part numbers. I did this job recently on two 340s I have here, also a good time to replace the worn and munted guide plates and give the saws a general spruce up.

You need to triple check the hose against pics on Google as there was a change on the 353 at some point, a v.1 hose and then a v.2 hose.

Yep, I've replaced the hose and guide plate with exactly the right ones. Like you say, getting the right part number was fun!

I've wondered about the oil viscosity, but it's on Stihl chain oil now, which worked well in my last Husky. I've also taken to putting a block of wood under the dog too to lift up the bar side, but yes, it may be a case of lying it flat or draining it down...but I'd prefer to fix it if possible. Especially as JCS has the same saw with no issues.

The other point I've questioned is the oil tank vent, apparently if blocked it can cause an increase in tank pressure pushing oil out via the pump. It looks clean from the outside, but I'm not sure how i can check it's working properly and not blocked from the inside.

Valve for Husqvarna 371K, 340, 340E, 345, 345E, 350, 351 Chainsaws - 537 04 03-01

Overview: The Valve for Husqvarna 371K and 340 Chainsaws, with Manufacturer Part Number (MPN) 537 04 03-01, is a genuine spare part designed to ensure the optimal performance of your chainsaw. Crafted from high-quality materials,

www.lsengineers.co.uk

 

[AGR]

I put a small Stihl saw in for repair due to an oil leak. It came back with no fault found. Sometime later a slight crack in the oil cap proved to be the culprit. Air in, oil out.
Not sure if your saw has an internal or external cap, but someone else might benefit from my experience!

 

[Oly]

I put a small Stihl saw in for repair due to an oil leak. It came back with no fault found. Sometime later a slight crack in the oil cap proved to be the culprit. Air in, oil out.
Not sure if your saw has an internal or external cap, but someone else might benefit from my experience!

Many thanks, it's a valid point, but yes, I've also replaced the oil tank cap o-ring too!

 

[countrryboy]

I'd say u've done most of the obvious things. The split hose are often the problem

I'd go on the L&S site and look at the blown up diagrams of wot its meant to look like see if any small seals that are missing or could be replaced for pennies.
Very good for getting the parts numbers too

Otherwise u might just have to live with it, might not be ideal but no point in throwing money at it when u could just store it in a plastic crate with some saw dust/shaving in it or buy a load of those anti spill/refuelling nappies for it to sit on.

I had an old 372 that leaked far more than that bloody thing was swiming in the stuff , think 1 was the hose but the other was the seal and i never bothered splitting it.
Got given a saw in a box once that leaked with the gasket, split it and when put it back together half the bloody parts weren't in the box its still sitting in my shed part built no idea how many years later.

 

[stalker.308]

The other point I've questioned is the oil tank vent, apparently if blocked it can cause an increase in tank pressure pushing oil out via the pump. It looks clean from the outside, but I'm not sure how i can check it's working properly and not blocked from the inside.

Valve for Husqvarna 371K, 340, 340E, 345, 345E, 350, 351 Chainsaws - 537 04 03-01

Overview: The Valve for Husqvarna 371K and 340 Chainsaws, with Manufacturer Part Number (MPN) 537 04 03-01, is a genuine spare part designed to ensure the optimal performance of your chainsaw. Crafted from high-quality materials,

www.lsengineers.co.uk

I had a stihl that leaked a lot of oil, I mean it was puddling and emptying the tank. i changed the oil tank pipe, this solved 99% of the issue, it still continued, but only dribbles. I cleared the oil tank vent and it solved it. The advise is not to blow it in to the tank though!

Now and again I get a spot of oil after its been used, but never continues. They say a chainsaw likes to 'mark its territory'.

 

[Oly]

I've just found this, sounds like many recommend a bit of liquid gasket. Watch from 6:05

 

[Home Loader]

What oil are you using? Most of our saw leave an oil spot or puddle depending on the saw or the oil we are using at the time.
The rubber groove from the pump to the bar feed channel does shrink, if the oiler is turned up to high you can just have alot of oil spread about in the side plate which drips when you stop.

 

[countrryboy]

I doubt it is the oil, but u can get different grades 80 is normal bar oil, 150 is thicker but still ok for saws, i've used that in the past a lot and 220 is harvester grade.
Possibly if u get some 150 it may help, but doubtful
Back in the day a lot of boys used old car oil free from garages but because so thin u had to fill the oil tank twice for 1 fill of petrol.

Some of the other boys i work with were using some 220 the other week, i was going to borrow half a fill and got bored waiting for it to pour out the can, it was a cold day but it was like frozen treacle, was quickier walking to the van to fill my can up than wait for it to pour.
I hadnae the patience for it, cant be good for nose sprockets when as thick as that either

 

[Skogsmannen]

I'd just save you're money on parts and just put up with it. It's maybe a little more than normal but seen a lot worse.

353 were a great saw and often overlooked as they weren't xp so people thought they were only semi pro. Only criticism I found was that they seemed quite prone to cracking clutch springs compared to the 346's.

353 will be still running years after any 550 you might end up buying!

 

[Oly]

I've just found this, sounds like many recommend a bit of liquid gasket. Watch from 6:05

Update, as per all the comments on the video, this works! The saw still oils the chain well (better in fact as it's all going to the bar), and no oily mess left behind