My lee loader experience

Essexsussex

Well-Known Member
Thank you everyone who has given me encouragement to have a go at loading. I started working up a round, and fired my first 12 (I think - note to self keep a log) rounds at the weekend. No case issues to speak of, they all went bang except one that wouldn't chamber. now I am loading to test grouping.

so as a complete novice, here is what I say to anyone thinking of loading who has seen a lee loader and wants to know more. Really easy and it really works! The following aimed at someone who hasn't read up on loading, like I was a few weeks ago, and might guide them a bit. Please read what you can including a manual before you start, and ask as many questions on here as required. I made myself look stupid several times but I am safer for it.

Hopefully I have uploaded my picture of the minimal kit required.

You have seen the box - the box is literally everything you need to make a round. If you use cartridges fired in your own gun or new, follow the instructions in the box, make the round the length it tells you and use the provided powder scoop with the powder they tell you to use, you will make rounds that work fine but aren't necessarily optimum for your gun.
The powder scoop will limit the amount of powder you use per round, and therefore the speed of the bullet, to a "safe" level. If this is ok for you, then end of, you can just use a Lee loader as per the instructions.

by the way, you do have to hit live ammo with a hammer. I have blown a primer which is mildly worrying but doesn't hurt. That part of the process happens before any powder is introduced. If you do things right you cannot blow the live round due to the design of the loader.

if you want to optimise the round somewhat, you have to "work up" your round. Buy a manual and read it at this point, but believe that you need all sorts of fancy kit to make a hunting round. This means using a low level powder charge, firing it in your own gun and inspecting the case for signs of stress. You then step this up by .5 of a grain in increments and keep looking until you get to the maximum charge in your loading book for exactly the same weight of bullet. To do this, you need scales to step up in the right accurate increments. You can see from my photo I bought a set of lee scales which are a bit cumbersome but work and are £20 or less used.

you then make groups of 3 or 5 in the weight increments that are safe and within your desired velocity range and shoot them and see which groups best. Then that is your round. Dedicated people with more gear and time will then vary the length of the cartridge to see if accuracy is improved, but as others have said on here you will get a good hunting round using the specified length.

Reasonably accurate home made rounds, end of, unless you get the bug of course...
 

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This is how I started. One of the first things I did was upgrade from a hammer to a little arbor press - works really well, and is readily portable. Some forum members may even remember me using just such a set up to load ammo at the 2015 H4H shoot!

I didn't use the kit quite as designed, instead of making one complete round from start to finish after another, I batch processed them - sized all of them, trimmed all of them, primed all of them, charged them with a funnel (didn't like using the die as a funnel) then seated the bullet last. I never did use the kit to crimp, although you can! (The arbor press just didn't have the reach to allow that operation).

If you just want to find out whether reloading is "for you" this is an excellent way to do it. Once you decide that it is - any extra items that you've bought like a powder trickler, scales, bullet puller, manual, and any case cleaning equipment will continue to work for you if you upgrade to a standard press and FL dies.

The only significant limitations are the slightly restricted variety of available calibres, and that you will need to use brass fired in your rifle, or get it factory resized.
 
You didn't make yourself look stupid several times by asking questions - and nor does any beginner. You made yourself look considerably cleverer by keeping all your fingers and eyes intact.
A helpful and thoughtful write-up for others. Well done!
Only thing I would add is : make time to write out a checklist of exactly what you do in what order. First time, I was super meticulous and careful. By third or fourth time I caught myself doing things in the wrong order or missing out a step.
 
I started not too long ago for my 223. Got groups to .4inch at 110ish yards. Got the lee loader, chamfer tools and a set of beam scales and the other bits and bobs. Saving about 70p a round over factory with the added accuracy :)
 
The only things I would add to this excellent opening post are. Don't turn the base over from the primer seating side, to seat the bullet(I wrecked a few cases), and get a kinetic hammer to pull the bullets from your mistakes, and you can use it with the Lee Loader kit instead of buying a a rubber faced hammer especially for the job.
 
The only things I would add to this excellent opening post are. Don't turn the base over from the primer seating side, to seat the bullet(I wrecked a few cases), and get a kinetic hammer to pull the bullets from your mistakes, and you can use it with the Lee Loader kit instead of buying a a rubber faced hammer especially for the job.
thanks JTO, you will see I have bought a kinetic hammer on here just a day ago!
 
The other thing I would add to my original post - the sharpie pen to write on the trial cases what you have done (or DO NOT FIRE if they need to be pulled).

Now I have a reasonable load, I will be doing some real shooting with my loaded 7mm rem mags in a couple of weeks and very excited about it too.
 
I’ve sold all my reloading gear about 18 months ago............. but I have just bought a Lee loader for my 30-30 and that’s only because I want to load Barnes Bullets and I can’t get the factory ammo without selling a testicle!

I have to say I’m latter years of my reloading career if started to find it boring and chorsome, but now I am rather excited at the prospect of making bullets with a hammer!
 
Essexsussex - I don't want to be a wet rag on your enthusiasm - no criticism here - Just trying to help.
Your percentage "failure rate" is way too high IMHO. --- Two in 12 reloads.
Two questions to ask yourself & answer. First - how did you blow a primer?
Second - why didn't that round fit your chamber? Can you measure it & compare it to a round that will chamber?
What did you do wrong? How will you avoid doing it again? -Learn from your experience.
For safety's sake learn to determine why failures happen & cross check everything that you can right across all aspects of the process.
Have fun & continue to learn to load safely.

Ian
 
Thanks Ian - I do appreciate you concern, and I have investigated as, like you, I wasn't happy with that fact. It was one round that didn't chamber. I think it was a case from a different rifle and I didn't force it into the rifle, and pulled it later. I had been doing some shooting with my brother who also uses the same calibre so one of his will have got into my empties. As you probably know the Lee loader only neck sizes so unless it is a new case or used in your rifle that problem happens. Obviously I have been more careful since having realised the potential problem and haven't had any problems. This is the more serious point than the primer I think (although others will confirm). I have now loaded over 150 and they have alllseated fine. Actually I have probably loaded many more than 150 as I often am not happen because the demons in my head tell me I didn't measure the powder right or something, so I often pull them, check them and go again. I also measure the length overall of every bullet when finishing a session.

blowing a primer with a Lee loader is something that happens as anyone who has used them a lot knows. When you seat the primer if you are heavy handed (you are using a mallet after all) they go bang. Once you have done it once you are more careful. There is no powder near the bullet at that point and it is a shock that reminds you to wear goggles and gloves when seating the primers, but is not a serious risk beyond that. Except it wakes the children so Mrs Essexsussex is a significant danger.
 
:thumb:
If you have a pedestal drill, you could use it as an arbor press & avoid clouting primers with a hammer/mallet. :coat:

Ian

That's what I did. For the same reason (although I never blew a primer, the hammering alone was enough to wake the baby...)
 
Well I’m a convert, just knocked up a quick 5 rounds to test for my 30-30 win and all i can say is for 30m off sticks with open sights............ that will do me! 4 shots just off the bull and 1 Flyer but still in the 4“ circle.
 
As an update I have now worked up a load for the 6.5x55 by simply loading to the specified length from the Sierra manual and working up in 0.5 grain increments.

This was the best one which I am very happy with considering the simple equipment, and am considering whether I can easily change anything (other than my shooting ability) but in reality I never will get round to it, because it is perfectly good enough.

Picture is actually 5 shots at 100m not the 4 it says.
 

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