Not firing

G1963

Well-Known Member
Have a Tikka T3 Hunter that I've just purchased and went out to zero and the pin was only just making a mark on the primers cleaned the bolt etc and even changed the pins over from another T3 and still not firing?
Help
 
Take it back to the shop and insist on a full service, headspace check and if needed, new spring and firing pin
 
How far does the pin protrude from the bolt face when in the fired position? Approx 1.5-2mm is about right (off the top of my head)
 
Changed the pin over from my other T3 and it still didn't fire only way I got it to ignite the primers was to have them proud of the case by a fraction but that's not right
 
Changed the pin over from my other T3 and it still didn't fire only way I got it to ignite the primers was to have them proud of the case by a fraction but that's not right
In that case either there’s crud inside the bolt body or bolt is not original and headspace is way off
 
I have seen this happen several times with these Tikkas, it is a build up of crud inside the bolt body. On pulling the trigger, the firing pin is audibly slower and only just marks the primer. On one occasion two gentlemen ( from this forum ) who bought their T3s from the same gun shop at the same time had this happen on my ground, in front of me. They took their rifles back to the gun shop who very quickly stripped and cleaned the bolt body, problem sorted.
Hope this helps.

Nick.
 
If he has already tried another firing pin, he must have had the bolt open. So clogged grease or dirt inside the bolt cannot be the reason.
 
As you said Rider, there are many possible reasons for this problem, I just thought I would pass on the observation.

Regards Nick.
 
Changed the pin over from my other T3 and it still didn't fire only way I got it to ignite the primers was to have them proud of the case by a fraction but that's not right

Sounds like your FL sizing is a bit excessive if you're able to seat the primers proud and chamber them easily. Try backing out the FL sizing die for better headspacing of the cartridge in the chamber.
 
Strip and clean the bolt , inner bolt tube and firing pin assembly

But some factory ammunition and try this

It’s possible your sear is catching on the rear stock bolt if it’s protruding too far upwards (it needs to be flush in the sear inlet with the top of the base of the“u” channel)
 
Definitely sounds like a headspace issue. I had a similar problem recently with my 6.5x55 where the sizing die was not bumping the shoulder back far enough, which caused misfires. Take some measurements of a brand new case with a headspace gauge and compare it to a case that did not fire.
 
As mentioned earlier, strip the bolt completely & clean all the components thoroughly, or have the dealer you bought the rifle from do it.
If the problem persists, a weak firing pin spring may be the cause of the malfunction.
 
It was because the shoulder of the case was not pushed back enough so the firing pin had much less travel and could not strike the primer hard enough
That sounds rather odd.

My understanding is that a rimless case which headspaces on the shoulder should be more or less right shoulder-length for the chamber.
Much to long, bolt won't close; a litte too long, some resistance on closing bolt but fine; a little shorter than chamber-length, fine; too much shorter, excess case-stretch/separation.

The only option from the above which I can understand as causing a misfire because of light strike is when the shoulder has been pushed much so far back that case can move forward when the striker falls.

Have I missunderstood, I wonder?
 
It is a straight pull action on my rifle if that makes a difference? when measuring a resized case compared to a new case it was approximately 20-30 thou longer. Adjusted the die and resized them all again. Now firing perfectly ever time
 
Sounds like your FL sizing is a bit excessive if you're able to seat the primers proud and chamber them easily. Try backing out the FL sizing die for better headspacing of the cartridge in the chamber.
This.
My CZ 300 AAC was not igniting some of my handloads and I traced it to the RCBS Small Base FL Resizing die I was using. I started using this die because I have two autoloading 300's as well as two bolt guns and figured I would use one die for all. The SB die was just pushing the nearly non existent shoulder of the case back a little too far to be happy in the CZ. I backed the die out 3/4 turn and the problem was solved with the CZ and function was still 100% in my autoloading guns.~Muir
 
Have a Tikka T3 Hunter that I've just purchased and went out to zero and the pin was only just making a mark on the primers cleaned the bolt etc and even changed the pins over from another T3 and still not firing?
Help
Will the bolt handle close completely or is there something fouling the lugs. I had a light strike on my old Remmie which was caused by a part lifted bolt handle
 
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