Uptonogood ... Thank you Sir for the offer ! Somerset is a bit of a trek from me (Northampton-ish), so I might have to take a rain check on that one. My normal (well, he claims to be normal
) shooting buddy is somewhat more au-fait with tecker-knowledge-icy stuff than I am, and will be in close attendance tomorrow when I go and try and sort the thing out.
He's that far advanced that he looks up ballistic tables on his phone whilst out shooting instead of having a drop chart written on a Post-It inside the lid of his baccy tin like I have
It has to be said that the images posted on this thread are FAR clearer than I'm currently achieving so I reckon I MUST be doing something fundamentally stupid with my kit. Tomorrow will tell !
A certain electronics wizard posted the following idiot-proof advice some time ago, it worked for me so you should be fine….
I hope he doesn’t mind the copyright infringement! Read and marvel……
Here's the step by step procedure I use when setting up a scope and PARD 007 for the first time
1. Adjust the ocular on the riflescope to give as sharp an image for your eye as possible. If the scope is second focal plane then this should be done with the scope set to maximum magnification. If the scope is first focal plane it should be done at the lowest magnification at which all the reticle markings are clearly visible. Once this is done, don't touch the ocular focus again.
2. Fit the 007, switch it on and bring up the main menu. Adjust the eyepiece focus on the 007 so that the text is focussed for your eye. Once this is done, don't touch the eyepiece focus again.
3. Now adjust the main lens focus on the 007 (the barrel shaped bit on the underside of the body) so that the scope reticle is in focus
4. Now use the adjustable objective or side focus on the scope to bring the target into focus.
You're now ready to shoot.
For different target ranges and for day and NV use, only the focus control on the scope (AO or sided focus) should be needed to get a focussed image of the target on the PARD display.
However, when used for NV, it may be necessary to slightly adjust the main lens on the PARD to keep the reticle in focus.
Here's why:
The lenses in your scope are designed to work with visible light.
In daylight, the light passing through the scope comes to a focus at the same place as the reticle, meaning that you see both the reticle and whatever you're looking in focus together.
When using an NV add-on like the 007, there is little or no visible light passing through the scope.
Instead, IR is passing through the scope and IR does not focus at the same place as the reticle, meaning that you can either focus on the reticle or focus on the target, but not both at the same time.
This effect gets worse as magnification increases
The solution to this problem is a scope with adjustable focus.
Either an adjustable objective (AO) scope, or a scope with side focus (often called side parallax)
With such a scope, the focus can be adjusted so that the IR coming through the scope focusses at the same place as the reticle.
This effect can be quite large.
For example, if you have a scope with adjustable focus and set up a target at 100 yards, then in daylight, the focus control will be set at or close to 100 yards to get the target in focus
Repeat this situation at night using IR to illuminate the target, and the focus control will need to be set at around 20 yards to get the target in focus
It's this big difference in focus setting between day and NV use that leads to the requirement for scopes which work well with the PARD to have focus adjustment down to 10 yards or less.
)No loss of ret or image .
(and the OP of that info) It sounds like the sort of instructions that even a technophobe like me could follow.
