Pard 008 - Reticle Adjustment

[Foxyboy43]

I only recently joined the (very) dark side of NV with a Pard 007a which I liked so much I fitted collars to my .17hmr, .222 and 6.5x55SE - it has performed very well on all three of these rifles and I am a happy bunny - unlike a number of recently departed and now ex-bunnies - videos are available, signed at additional cost.
Soo after having a look at and through my pal’s 008P I decided to dedicate my .222 (God’s own calibre) to one and duly purchased it. It arrived only yesterday and despite the absence of anything other than a very basic manual I managed to attach it and set it up through bore-sighting and ultimately fine-tuning through live firing on the ground. It is a highly impressive bit of kit both as a scope and day recording device - the video quality is excellent and far surpasses that of the 007a which I thought was great too. The only niggle I have is that following zeroing the reticle is left of centre and about one third of the way across the screen - this does not affect accuracy or picture quality but is slightly annoying - particularly on 13x. Extensive research on t’internet does mention using the provided shims but they appear to be only for vertical adjustment which is already good on mine, I also note that the provided mount gets a lot of criticism so the big question is what, if anything, can I do with what I have to sort this out?
Grateful for advice from those who have been there, done that etc….

 

[JLC134]

Ive noticed a few coming with these..

Eaglevision adjustable mount suitable for Pard NV008S, DNT Zulus and DNT ThermNight

The Eagle Vision adjustable Pard NV008P, NV008S and Arken Zulus mount allows full windage and elevation adjustment along with a reach back weaver style rail mount.

www.blackwoodoutdoors.co.uk

The description mentions wanting to zero but keeping the reticle in the centre of the screen.

 

[gixer1]

It bugs my OCD as well that you can’t centre the reticle after zeroing - all you can do is undo the mounts and shift it to try and get the reticle more centred and then zero again…

But congrats on the OCD!

 

[mealiejimmy]

All digital scopes (NV or thermal) are unlikely to have the reticle in the centre of the screen after zeroing
In a glass scope, the reticle is fixed at the centre of the field of view and when the windage and elevation knobs are adjusted, the field of view moves.
In a digital scope, the field of view is fixed, so the electronically generated reticle has to move to bring the point of aim and the point of impact to the same place.
The shims supplied with the PARD should allow you to get the vertical position of the reticle near the centre of the screen.
Right and left is a bit harder - it usually involves twisting the PARD in the direction of the reticle (reticle to the right, then twist to the right) while tightening the screws holding the PARD to it's mount and also when mounting the PARD to the rail.
Even if you can't get the reticle dead centre, trust me, you quickly get used to it and your OCD will ignore it
Some digital scopes have the ability to centre the reticle when digital zoom is used, but I'm not sure if that applies to the PARD

Cheers

Bruce

 

[BenBhoy]

Ive noticed a few coming with these..

Eaglevision adjustable mount suitable for Pard NV008S, DNT Zulus and DNT ThermNight

The Eagle Vision adjustable Pard NV008P, NV008S and Arken Zulus mount allows full windage and elevation adjustment along with a reach back weaver style rail mount.

www.blackwoodoutdoors.co.uk

The description mentions wanting to zero but keeping the reticle in the centre of the screen.

That's what I used on my 008lrf. Fantastic bit of kit. Will do exactly what the OP requires & is just a stronger, better made mount in general.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Ive noticed a few coming with these..

Eaglevision adjustable mount suitable for Pard NV008S, DNT Zulus and DNT ThermNight

The Eagle Vision adjustable Pard NV008P, NV008S and Arken Zulus mount allows full windage and elevation adjustment along with a reach back weaver style rail mount.

www.blackwoodoutdoors.co.uk

The description mentions wanting to zero but keeping the reticle in the centre of the screen.

Aye thank you JCL but it bugs me that such a good sight might need a different mount - never mind the £100+ extra spend! Seems like Pard have let themselves down here!

 

[Foxyboy43]

All digital scopes (NV or thermal) are unlikely to have the reticle in the centre of the screen after zeroing
In a glass scope, the reticle is fixed at the centre of the field of view and when the windage and elevation knobs are adjusted, the field of view moves.
In a digital scope, the field of view is fixed, so the electronically generated reticle has to move to bring the point of aim and the point of impact to the same place.
The shims supplied with the PARD should allow you to get the vertical position of the reticle near the centre of the screen.
Right and left is a bit harder - it usually involves twisting the PARD in the direction of the reticle (reticle to the right, then twist to the right) while tightening the screws holding the PARD to it's mount and also when mounting the PARD to the rail.
Even if you can't get the reticle dead centre, trust me, you quickly get used to it and your OCD will ignore it
Some digital scopes have the ability to centre the reticle when digital zoom is used, but I'm not sure if that applies to the PARD

Cheers

Brucer

Thank you sir - atwisting I shall go! Just a pity it doesnt have the centreing adjustment of its wee brother!

 

[BenBhoy]

Seems like Pard have let themselves down here!

Your not the first to say that mate. Biggest fault of the unit. I had to get eaglevision because the bolts gripping to pic rail sheared off. It is annoying but the eaglevision mount does transform the unit & makes it very versatile, especially if you want to use it on different rifles.

 

[CJR]

I've had my eye on one of these for a while, keep finding other things to buy tho...

ZB Universal Zeroing mount for Pard NV008 P

zero scopes and centre digital scopes without crosshairs with this mount compatible with Pard NV008 P night vision scope when you are out of adjustment

shop.drewslab.co.uk

 

[Warbucks]

Left/right adjustment.
You could cut some strips of aluminium can and make a v shape that is the correct size/shape to fit on the weaver rail at either the front or rear of the FIXED side of the clamping system to pull it near centre. --------just be careful don't over tighten them bolts, they do snap.

Dave (warbucks)

 

[Foxyboy43]

Left/right adjustment.
You could cut some strips of aluminium can and make a v shape that is the correct size/shape to fit on the weaver rail at either the front or rear of the FIXED side of the clamping system to pull it near centre. --------just be careful don't over tighten them bolts, they do snap.

Dave (warbucks)

Thank you sir. I wasn’t sure whether this would give me enough windage and was indeed concerned about the bolt problem. Pretty much as MJ predicted I am getting used to the offset reticle already but might just go for an adjustable mount. Have to say it is a great bit of kit.

 

[norma 308]

Just got an Innomount £270 but the original broke I can’t be without the pard on my 22/250

 

[Foxyboy43]

Even if you can't get the reticle dead centre, trust me, you quickly get used to it and your OCD will ignore it

Cheers

Bruce

Good man!
A quick update on my reticle centre issue. Rather than (endlessly) shimming and chasing a screen with a perfectly centred reticle what works for me is simply to use eye-relief to turn your view into a traditional round scope picture rather than the temptation of pressing your eye against the cup to get the full screen. Unlike some traditional scopes the position/movement of your head does not impact on the point of aim - presumably as you are viewing a screen and once zeroed you are good to go.
Simples!
You are welcome.