PARD DS035-70 Gen2 - Zero issue

[Tikka 260]

Just limping thru the frustrating process of zero adjustment at 100 metres, mainly due to the lack of clarity of the target, its so fuzzy that fine adjustment is just guesswork.
Does any one know how much distance is achieved at 100m using either 5.6 or 11.8 of the factory zoom settings? I've managed to get to a good 'y' axis but trying to use the '1 shot zero' for the 'x' axis given the lack of clarity is pretty much impossible, so if there is a known movement value for each click of adjustment then it will be simple to achieve a good zero result. I haven't got as far as updating the unit, and I'm sure that will be another episode of trying to guess what Pard intend by their totally rubbish operating instructions.
Of course, It may well be that I am not doing something correctly with the focussing, but I'm simply following what is written in the instructions.
Thanks to anyone who is cleverer than I.

 

[Trigger260]

Clarity should be good enough at 100yrds! Have you screwed the ocular lense out to suit your eyes? Also try with the lense cap open and closed.

 

[Kevgun]

I use a Sheet of A4 paper with a 1 inch black dot, shoot at it and go and draw a 2nd Black dot over the bullet hole, then you can see it clear enough, Or if you know all the data required to zero MBPR then you can Zero it closer ans also shoot further out, So fo instance, I zero my .223 at 64 yards exactly it's 1.5 inches high at 170 yards dropping on to a 2nd zero for
270 yards, Its much easier to see a Target with a digital Scope at closer ranges, then just confirm 2nd zero once you have a solid 1st zero. so for me, I have zeroed at 64 yards dead on, then once im happy I check it at 170 Yards ( 1.5 high ) then at 270 yards to confirm.

 

[Tikka 260]

Affirmative, followed the instructions, it has no worthwhile clarity whatsoever, hence my question as that would resolve the issue. The One Shot Zero anyway is a fallacy IMHO.

 

[Tikka 260]

I use a Sheet of A4 paper with a 1 inch black dot, shoot at it and go and draw a 2nd Black dot over the bullet hole, then you can see it clear enough, Or if you know all the data required to zero MBPR then you can Zero it closer ans also shoot further out, So fo instance, I zero my .223 at 64 yards exactly it's 1.5 inches high at 170 yards dropping on to a 2nd zero for
270 yards, Its much easier to see a Target with a digital Scope at closer ranges, then just confirm 2nd zero once you have a solid 1st zero. so for me, I have zeroed at 64 yards dead on, then once im happy I check it at 170 Yards ( 1.5 high ) then at 270 yards to confirm.

Thanks for that , but I don't have the data yet for an MBPR, chrono yet to do on the 'new' Peregrine loads. It seems to me that shoot and hope is a somewhat primitive process in the face of such over complicated digital equipment. Still, nobody ever said that it would be easy, and this rifle will shoot less than .5MOA if I do my bit.

 

[Ratsbadboy]

Are you trying to zero at night (b/w) or in the daytime (colour)? If zeroing in colour during the daytime you should be able to see the target clear enough at 100 yards. My .223, .243 and .308 are all fitted with a Gen 2 DS35-70 and they all zeroed OK. I did find trying to zero at night challenging with the Pard though (using 'splash' targets). Like @Kevgun I found it much easier to zero at the near zero first (56, 62, and 47 yards) and then confirmed at the far zero (180, 200 and 155yards).

 

[Ruby Tuesday 2]

I've had to screw the ocular lens right out probably 40mm from the body and now clarity is perfect and no other problems in the last year

 

[Tikka 260]

Are you trying to zero at night (b/w) or in the daytime (colour)? If zeroing in colour during the daytime you should be able to see the target clear enough at 100 yards. My .223, .243 and .308 are all fitted with a Gen 2 DS35-70 and they all zeroed OK. I did find trying to zero at night challenging with the Pard though (using 'splash' targets). Like @Kevgun I found it much easier to zero at the near zero first (56, 62, and 47 yards) and then confirmed at the far zero (180, 200 and 155yards).

Thanks for responding, I am trying to zero in daylight, and only found out about the amount to wind out the ocular lens from a mate who had been thru the same lack of information. ( Thanks for your input RT2) - I don't have a need for night shooting as nearly all of my stalking activity is in a management role, and what I want the scope for is that last 20 minutes of legal time when the fallow move out of cover, and it becomes tricky to identify the beast correctly and get a safe shot.

I think that maybe I am asking too much of the digital scope compared with the past 40 years of using top quality optical scopes, which provide a crystal clear sight picture. but gather insufficient light in marginal conditions. All I need to know is how far does the Pard reticle move for each click, then I can fine tune the rough zero from the 1 shot zero method.

 

[Smellydog]

No idea on the click values but I'd be surprised if it was more than 1/4" per press.

 

[mealiejimmy]

The DS35-70 has a field of view of 3.4 degrees - which is 204moa
The display has a resolution of 800x800 pixels, and one "click" moves the reticle by one pixel
Therefore, one click moves the reticle by 204/800 = 0.255moa which, as near as damn it, is 1/4"

Cheers

Bruce

 

[75]

@Tikka 260 - I'm with you on the "one shot zero" it's a bit of a pia in my view. Very easy to get "close" but hard to get exact. I also took a while to find the ocular lens needed screwing right out to get a clear picture and doesn't work like an ocular lens on a conventional scope (i.e. to focus the crosshairs) but also has a huge impact on image focus.

When I've zeroed my DS35 it's been a bit of trial and error. Get it close with "one shot zero" then fire a couple of shots, guess how many "clicks" to move the POA and then repeat until you get it right.

 

[Tikka 260]

The DS35-70 has a field of view of 3.4 degrees - which is 204moa
The display has a resolution of 800x800 pixels, and one "click" moves the reticle by one pixel
Therefore, one click moves the reticle by 204/800 = 0.255moa which, as near as damn it, is 1/4"

Cheers

Bruce

Thanks Bruce,, much appreciate your input, I'll give it a try soonest.

 

[Tikka 260]

@Tikka 260 - I'm with you on the "one shot zero" it's a bit of a pia in my view. Very easy to get "close" but hard to get exact. I also took a while to find the ocular lens needed screwing right out to get a clear picture and doesn't work like an ocular lens on a conventional scope (i.e. to focus the crosshairs) but also has a huge impact on image focus.

When I've zeroed my DS35 it's been a bit of trial and error. Get it close with "one shot zero" then fire a couple of shots, guess how many "clicks" to move the POA and then repeat until you get it right.

Thanks @75 , I was headed down the same alley, but it goes against the grain to be guessing and wasting ammunition when there is a technical solution, sadly unavailable to those of us who are not in possession of the . I'm probably too old and too thick for all this digital malarkey lol. Happily tho', Bruce has helped me out, and thanks all round for the various inputs to my question.