Pulsar C50

Kieranglen

Well-Known Member
Is anyone having issues with the C50 losing zero? Its never by much maybe 2 inches off zero at most either way. Iv checked all mounts ect everything is fine i re zero it can shoot it fine no problem put it away and next time i take it out its off zero again.

Thanks
 
How long is it between usages for you? Mines can be sitting a month or more i dont know if that makes any difference but it sure is annoying having to check zero every time
It varies, but at this time of year it will generally be used at least once a week.
During the summer months it gets used much less and can be as long as 1 to 2 months between outings.

If your problem persists it might be worth keeping a record of what your x and y settings are before and after each re-zeroing.
This might help you work out what is wrong.

What rifle / calibre / type of mounts are involved? Wooden stock or synthetic?
 
It varies, but at this time of year it will generally be used at least once a week.
During the summer months it gets used much less and can be as long as 1 to 2 months between outings.

If your problem persists it might be worth keeping a record of what your x and y settings are before and after each re-zeroing.
This might help you work out what is wrong.

What rifle / calibre / type of mounts are involved? Wooden stock or synthetic?
I did that today i took a note of them.
Its on a 22.250 tikka t3x synthetic stock, tikka rail and warne mounts
 
Do you have it zeroed exactly to start with, or have it shooting an inch high for the point and shoot?
What a lot of people don't seem to realise is if they have it set an inch high at 100 yard on base mag, then in the field double up on the zoom for the shot placement, then the poi shifts to double what you had if set at on base mag.
Switching between zooms from what you originally had it zeroed at will change the poi unless you have it perfectly zeroed.
Its always worth having if zeroed on the highest mag you are likely to shoot with, this way the distance it can be out is lessened with less mag.

Have to say on my Tikka 243 with a sporter barrel I could find my poi off a little between zero sessions. I wasted a lot of time and ammo chasing zero's until I did some thinking and found the main culprit was myself and my inconsistancy in hold taking the shot.
If you are a fox shooter, on normal ground then you dont get a massive amount of practice in the field, usually also without the opportunity to spend time on a shot checking your fundamentals.
It can take myself a few zero sessions to be 100 percent happy with my zero for longer shots on fox, taking the average poi between these zero sessions has eliminated my inconsistancy.
It gets left well alone at that point until I have a mishap in the field.👍
 
Do you have it zeroed exactly to start with, or have it shooting an inch high for the point and shoot?
What a lot of people don't seem to realise is if they have it set an inch high at 100 yard on base mag, then in the field double up on the zoom for the shot placement, then the poi shifts to double what you had if set at on base mag.
Switching between zooms from what you originally had it zeroed at will change the poi unless you have it perfectly zeroed.
Its always worth having if zeroed on the highest mag you are likely to shoot with, this way the distance it can be out is lessened with less mag.

Have to say on my Tikka 243 with a sporter barrel I could find my poi off a little between zero sessions. I wasted a lot of time and ammo chasing zero's until I did some thinking and found the main culprit was myself and my inconsistancy in hold taking the shot.
If you are a fox shooter, on normal ground then you dont get a massive amount of practice in the field, usually also without the opportunity to spend time on a shot checking your fundamentals.
It can take myself a few zero sessions to be 100 percent happy with my zero for longer shots on fox, taking the average poi between these zero sessions has eliminated my inconsistancy.
It gets left well alone at that point until I have a mishap in the field.👍
Never had that issue with mine, POI stayed the same regardless of magnification having been zeroed 1" high at 100yds. Otherwise, why bother with scalable reticules? ( Akin to first focal plane)
 
Do you have it zeroed exactly to start with, or have it shooting an inch high for the point and shoot?
What a lot of people don't seem to realise is if they have it set an inch high at 100 yard on base mag, then in the field double up on the zoom for the shot placement, then the poi shifts to double what you had if set at on base mag.
Switching between zooms from what you originally had it zeroed at will change the poi unless you have it perfectly zeroed.
Its always worth having if zeroed on the highest mag you are likely to shoot with, this way the distance it can be out is lessened with less mag.

Have to say on my Tikka 243 with a sporter barrel I could find my poi off a little between zero sessions. I wasted a lot of time and ammo chasing zero's until I did some thinking and found the main culprit was myself and my inconsistancy in hold taking the shot.
If you are a fox shooter, on normal ground then you dont get a massive amount of practice in the field, usually also without the opportunity to spend time on a shot checking your fundamentals.
It can take myself a few zero sessions to be 100 percent happy with my zero for longer shots on fox, taking the average poi between these zero sessions has eliminated my inconsistancy.
It gets left well alone at that point until I have a mishap in the field.👍
Sorry that’s incorrect.
It’s not the case with the scaled rets of the C50, POI remains the same at all magnifications.
Take a look at foxy’s left eyeball at x3.5 main screen and x7 in the PIP box.
IMG_7781.webp
 
Mines is zeroed as bang on as i can get it at 100y, and i have shot it at base mag and high mag after it and its always been fine its just after sitting a period of time i turn it on again and zero is off!
 
I did that today i took a note of them.
Its on a 22.250 tikka t3x synthetic stock, tikka rail and warne mounts
Sounds like a good set up.
I‘ve got my C50 on a .223 Sako 75, via Optilock mounts.
Do you have a conventional scope / mounts that you can fit on the tikka rail to compare whether there’s any loss of zero with that set up?
Definitely worth checking that the rail is fitted properly.
 

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Hey guys. I know its complex and its nothing to do with scaled FFP reticles or PIP.
No change occurs with mag when you have it zeroed bang on centre at a distance.
Basically you have your POI aimed off target if its an inch high, increasing the zoom moves the POI further away from the point it is actually zeroed at (your rifle is not pointing at the target, it is pointing above the target).
If you already have your scope zoomed up whilst zeroing this does not show up as much as the POI moves closer to the crosshairs.
I'll leave it there, its a brainwrecker.
 
Sounds like a good set up.
I‘ve got my C50 on a .223 Sako 75, via Optilock mounts.
Do you have a conventional scope / mounts that you can fit on the tikka rail to compare whether there’s any loss of zero with that set up?
Definitely worth checking that the rail is fitted properly.
Yeah i have a scope and rings i can put on it to check might give that a try
 
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