Sako 85 : stock loose?

My winny 70 had a laminate stock when I bought it.
Took it out to give it a good clean, put it back in and torqued up the screws and never touched them again for 4 years until I changed the stock!
That rifle was exposed to just about everything and the screws never came loose!
 
My winny 70 had a laminate stock when I bought it.
Took it out to give it a good clean, put it back in and torqued up the screws and never touched them again for 4 years until I changed the stock!
That rifle was exposed to just about everything and the screws never came loose!
I wish I had that luck! Re done it and it came out after 4 stalks, to be fair it's been good for a long time and taken it far and wide.

Will get it out this week and hopefully will hold properly 🤞
 
So update to this it did not hold,
I've gotten in the habit of gently trying to move it once I get out the truck to ensure it's fine, stalked up a hill and by time I made it up, had came loose again.
Probably had about less than 30/40 rounds through it since the last tightening and about 10. actual stalks and still came loose again.

So now the question I have is, can anyone recommend someone close to cumbernauld Scotland that can sort this out for me?
Thanks guys
 
Strange I've had loads of sako rifles. Never had a problem
And that's why I went with sako in the first place, had shot with them loads borrowing them over the years. Naturally was my first choice.
To be fair they were all wooden stocks, this one I got was a laminate and is giving issues.

Hopefully someone can point me to the right person and get it sorted out.
 
My three sako rifles were pillar bedded by Steve Kershaw. I bought a second hand one and it were already bedded. So decided on another two. I've 6 sako rifles
 
I suspect the problem is lack of cleanliness or crud on the threads, and under the head of the screws. Screws and threads remain tight by tension in the bolt against all the threads. If the threads are poor or corroded etc you have much less contact and thus gripping force. The threads need to clean along with the bearing surfaces of the screw heads. They then need a thin lubricating oil to allow the screws to be properly tightened with sufficient force to get them properly tight.

Threadlock can be used as a lubricant, but no substitute for proper cleanliness and procedure
 
I suspect the problem is lack of cleanliness or crud on the threads, and under the head of the screws. Screws and threads remain tight by tension in the bolt against all the threads. If the threads are poor or corroded etc you have much less contact and thus gripping force. The threads need to clean along with the bearing surfaces of the screw heads. They then need a thin lubricating oil to allow the screws to be properly tightened with sufficient force to get them properly tight.

Threadlock can be used as a lubricant, but no substitute for proper cleanliness and procedure
Hi mate, engineer by trade and know how clean it should be. Literally deep cleaned and locked in place and same result. Seems a common issue on these laminated stocks.
 
I’ve got a few 75 stainless synthetics which are always torqued and have never loosened off (that’s famous last words eh?) I also have two 75’s in GRS laminate stocks that haven’t ever worked loose. I wonder if it’s something to do with the bedding plate the 85 uses?
 
The only thing loctite will do on action screws in a wooden stock is to have a loose stock while having tight screws.
Pillar bedding is one good way of fixing the issue.
edi
 
I’ve got a few 75 stainless synthetics which are always torqued and have never loosened off (that’s famous last words eh?) I also have two 75’s in GRS laminate stocks that haven’t ever worked loose. I wonder if it’s something to do with the bedding plate the 85 uses?
Funnily my friend uses a 75, got family members with them and no other issues! After looking through some posts on here would seem others have had similar on the 85.
 
Just have it properly pillar bedded with the front pillar replacing the crap steel plate Sako fitted. Have done dozens of them. The lozenge shaped recoil lug on the bottom of the action needs to locate in a pocket in the top of the front pillar. OR sell it and buy a 75 - the last decent rifle Sako made - with a proper recoil lug.
 
Just have it properly pillar bedded with the front pillar replacing the crap steel plate Sako fitted. Have done dozens of them. The lozenge shaped recoil lug on the bottom of the action needs to locate in a pocket in the top of the front pillar. OR sell it and buy a 75 - the last decent rifle Sako made - with a proper recoil lug.
I agree with this. The 75 was made by Sako before being acquired by Beretta. I’ve said it before many times but to me anything after the 75 is Sako in name only and as a consequence and as you say, the 85 is an inferior product.
 
Nothing wrong with the 85 if bedded properly and Sako Metal plate is in the bin. Just bed with a T3 Lug. Neither 75 nor 85 will be as good as a T3 in my opinion. That is why you don't see 75/85 at serious competitions but a few T3's.
edi
 
The 85 is nearly controlled round feed and in that respect in my view better than the 85 & 90.

The recoil lug arrangement does appear a poor design but after 4 year has caused no problems, in its laminate stock so it works. Earlier Sako designs such as the S491 had separate recoil lugs which were a cheap feature. Personally I doubt anyone has improved on the Mauser 98, although the Remington 700/Accuracy International design achieves the same result in a cheaper to make design.
 
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