Shed Advice (again)

[Dave Lakes]

Hi All,

We’ve got an old asbestos shed that’s one good storm away from disappearing, so it’s time to bite the bullet and rebuild. We have a solid concrete base luckily.

To keep it simple, it’s basically 60m2, sort of in an L shape. It’ll be wooden, and need a few doors and windows, but nothing else, and electrics will be sorted separately.

I’ve budgeted 15-20k for the job (eye watering), but having spoken to a few of the pre-fab companies (Chart for example) I’m getting quotes of 20-35k which seems insane to me. I understand that pre-fab from these national providers is at the top-end cost wise, so I’m looking for a bit of reassurance. I am looking for something to last, so don’t just want to throw up the cheapest thing going, but I still have to be realistic.

Is my budget completely unrealistic in this day and age? Would a general builder just making it on-site get me in budget? Should I consider metal (seems cheaper?), or is condensation an issue? Is getting a builder in just to do block work going to be cheaper?

To be honest these initial quotes have rattled me a bit, so any advice welcome!

 

[trickie]

At that price, I’d ask a local builder for a quote. Tin sheds do suffer from condensation as do plastic so I’d avoid them as you mentioned.

It’s been a few years since I last obtained a quote for block work, but I would hope it would be sub 20K

 

[VSS]

That looks like your budget (and the quotes) are way over the top for the sort of simple structure you describe.

 

[Essex stalker]

Does the quotes you are receiving for £20 to £30K include removal of the existing asbestos shed. If the asbestos is being removed and disposed of to the book then it can be really expensive

 

[tattie]

If you are planning a new shed on the old base I would keep away from the shed companies as the materials they will use will be the cheapest of the cheap as in thin boarding and light structural timbers plus they will charge you a premium for "their design"

Get a local joiner ( the less writing on the side of his van the better)!!!! and make a traditional shed. A 4" x 2" frame with double bottom and top rails and studs at either 400mm or 600mm centres. If you are fitting doors and windows, be sure to fit Cripple studs under the lintols above the doors and windows as too many heroes just stick a roof on top of a timber frame with no thought for support for the roof.
Also depending on the height you want it put rows of dwangs every 1200mm and if you want 2" x2" dwangs in between (this give you a decent fixing for your boarding and cover strips) Clad it with 6" x 3/4" boarding with 3" x 3/4" straps over the joints.
Is it trussed roof?
If it is and the building is L shaped it will need rafters cut to form a hip on the outer corner and a valley on the inner corner.
Is the roof going to be profile sheeting on Purlings or profile sheeting on a ply clad roof with purling dwangs fitted for fixing the sheeting to.
The rafter ends will need to be fitted with tie down straps at regular intervals at the wall head and again at the bottom of the frame where it meets the concrete floor.

Is the floor in good order ie reasonably level, square and straight? if not the setting out for your wall plate takes a bit longer.

Finally ensure that the bottom frame and wall plate are positioned in such a way that when the cladding is fitted to the outside that the water runs off the boarding and does not run in to the concrete floor, plus the concrete floor must not be less than 4" above the surrounding ground level.

Materials are certainly not cheap, but it is essential that you make and fit the building in the correct manner as if not you will be having problems in a very short time.

For an outside coating keep away from any of the water based rubbish and use a good creosote or spirit bases wood preserver, paying attention to all cut ends and bottoms of boards.

Cheers

 

[Pedro]

Don't suppose a shipping container of the right dimensions would do? You could clad the walls inside, place windows where you want and there's a dozen ways to camouflage the outside, or simply place strategic bushes.

 

[Dave Lakes]

Does the quotes you are receiving for £20 to £30K include removal of the existing asbestos shed. If the asbestos is being removed and disposed of to the book then it can be really expensive

No, just the supply and build! I’ve got a local firm who have said they can clear the entire site for a few thousand, so leaves me with 15+ for the building.

 

[Dave Lakes]

Don't suppose a shipping container of the right dimensions would do? You could clad the walls inside, place windows where you want and there's a dozen ways to camouflage the outside, or simply place strategic bushes.

Unfortunately they would probably be too narrow and low for what we need. I know we could join them up, but then it starts to feel like a bigger job than the savings would provide. Also they’re not the bargain they used to be! But then nothing is

 

[gelert]

Not that I want to scare you but have a look if you haven't already at your local planning dpt laws too, just in case you fall foul and need planning permission/permitted development etc. Or as is the custom these days, a nosey neighbor reports you.
Huws Gray Timber also offer a service for a timber frame solution.

 

[Dave Lakes]

Not that I want to scare you but have a look if you haven't already at your local planning dpt laws too, just in case you fall foul and need planning permission/permitted development etc. Or as is the custom these days, a nosey neighbor reports you.
Huws Gray Timber also offer a service for a timber frame solution.

Already astride of all that headache! But thanks for the heads up

 

[Swedish]

Have a look at insulated steel buildings, you might be surprised

 

[Bavarianbrit]

Concrete panel (Banbury Buildings type ) garages are often in gumtree as free to dismantle and take away, I worked in their drawing office. They are 5 foot panels then bolt together put insulation inside and 2_3K should do it.