Shotgun Choice

[Fox Red]

Just been through my FAC renewal and for an extra tenner plumbed for a SCC too. Completely new to shotguns, other than doing a bit in NZ with a Beretta Tekneys semi-auto, which I liked.

In terms of shooting, probably have a go at clays, perhaps local geece, ducks, crows, jackdaws etc.

Main attraction for me would be working the labs. Noted that fit and feel is important, so will visit a few gun shops and size things up.

Looking for something, solid, decent quality and dependable that will last a long while. Looking at the second hand market. Budget under £700.

Any suggestions?

 

[Overlay]

Browning A5. SA

 

[Heym SR20]

I would stick with a side by side or over and under as a first gun. These days an over and under is generally the first choice. Plenty of good second hand guns in your budget as well as new Koff, AtAs etc.

A double is much more versatile and acceptable for the majority of shotgun shooting, whether its pottering about on your own or being invited on small rough shoots and or bigger shoots.

Many will suggest semi-auto’s. I have one for wildfowling. But they are not accepted by most when shooting in company. They are fiddlier to reload and they spray their empties everywhere which means you end up having to hunt for them the bushes, or down in the mud amongst the bullrushes by the pond (as I found the other evening).

With a double its simple enough to catch the empties as they eject and put them in your pocket. They are quick to reload. And easy to make safe by just opening top leaver.

A semi on a shotgun certificate only takes 3 shots. Very rarely will you take 3 birds at once. Normally its a single or two. The third shot is normally only fired in frustration after you have missed with the first two.

You can get some semi’s for under £700, but the better ones are well over £1,000 these days.

 

[Malxwal]

It's a buyers market. Wait until after January has passed. Ideally, go to a local clay ground or club, and see if you can try a couple/few different guns, the most common difference being if you suit Beretta or Browning/Miroku, and having someone advise you on basic fit.

 

[Craigsaun]

You won’t go wrong with either a Berreta silver pigeon or Browning 525 , both very good quality guns with good after sale. You would be looking between 700&1000

 

[cjs66]

Benelli M2.

cjs

 

[Fox Red]

Thanks. A few to look at there

 

[Len the dog]

If you're looking at shooting over wetlands then you will have to use steel shot, you can either fire standard steel out of any gun choked no tigther than half choke, or you can fire superior steel from a gun that is proofed accordingly. The proof mark for superior steel is a fleur-de-lys on each barrel.
If you are intending to shoot geese then you will be looking at heavier loads, therefore look for a gun that is superior steel proof with 3" chambers.

Most new guns these days are superior proofed but worth checking. The gunshops are awash with second hand shotguns because people are trading them in for superior proofed guns, this makes it very much a buyer's market so look around and pick up a bargain.

 

[Farmer_J]

Browning, beretta or Miroku will see you right, you may find a good secondhand beretta 686 for that money and it’ll last a lifetime.

 

[Fox Red]

If you're looking at shooting over wetlands then you will have to use steel shot, you can either fire standard steel out of any gun choked no tigther than half choke, or you can fire superior steel from a gun that is proofed accordingly. The proof mark for superior steel is a fleur-de-lys on each barrel.
If you are intending to shoot geese then you will be looking at heavier loads, therefore look for a gun that is superior steel proof with 3" chambers.

Most new guns these days are superior proofed but worth checking. The gunshops are awash with second hand shotguns because people are trading them in for superior proofed guns, this makes it very much a buyer's market so look around and pick up a bargain.

Good advice. The shotgun world is all new to me so do keep it coming and I’ll soak up as much as I can

 

[Fox Red]

Browning, beretta or Miroku will see you right, you may find a good secondhand beretta 686 for that money and it’ll last a lifetime.

Thanks. Interestingly found a 686 in stock at my local gun shop earlier today. Let me know what you think: Beretta 686 S 12 gauge Shotgun | Second Hand Guns for Sale | guntrader

 

[Len the dog]

Thanks. Interestingly found a 686 in stock at my local gun shop earlier today. Let me know what you think: Beretta 686 S 12 gauge Shotgun | Second Hand Guns for Sale | guntrader

That particular gun is choked 1/4 & 3/4 so you wouldn't be able to fire any steel shot through it, that woud rule out shooting ducks & geese over wetlands and if a lead ban does come into force in the forseeable, then you would have to get the 3/4 choke eased by a gunsmith and then sent for re-proof. That would all add cost which would effectively up the price on the ticket.
I'm guessing that a 686 S will most likely not be superior proofed.

 

[angusb1]

That particular gun is choked 1/4 & 3/4 so you wouldn't be able to fire any steel shot through it, that woud rule out shooting ducks & geese over wetlands and if a lead ban does come into force in the forseeable, then you would have to get the 3/4 choke eased by a gunsmith and then sent for re-proof. That would all add cost which would effectively up the price on the ticket.
I'm guessing that a 686 S will most likely not be superior proofed.

This is why, in a similar situation to you, I just bought an over and under choked 1/4 and half. Cheaper than multichokes. 3" chambers are a good idea too.

 

[Heym SR20]

And I really wouldn’t buy a heavy wildfowling type gun for geese unless you are shooting geese all the time. A goose gun will take a heavy load - 50grams etc. and will be a big old lump of a gun.

Stick with a standard game / sporter and most modernish guns will have 3”chambers and be high speed steel proofed. You don’t need a particularly heavy load or very large shot for geese. I have shot plenty of greys and pinks with an AyA Yeoman side by side with the old 1 1/4 oz load in a 23/4“ and since steel shot, a 36 gram load of No3 steel shot out of a 3” chamber.

 

[Fox Red]

Not embarrassed to say it’s all very confusing for a newbie! I guess I’m looking for a good, general purpose all-rounder that’ll last. Suggestions on a post it note!

 

[alsonlaw9936]

I 2nd benelli m2 if ur into semi auto.

 

[StoatallyDifferent]

I have a very nice Beretta AL391 Gold semi auto that’s not being used. It’ll be extremely similar to the Teknys you used in NZ. If it’s of interest, drop me a message. It’s well within your budget and I haven’t gotten round to advertising it yet.

 

[Miki]

Not embarrassed to say it’s all very confusing for a newbie! I guess I’m looking for a good, general purpose all-rounder that’ll last. Suggestions on a post it note!

It's a bit like rifles, different styles for differing scenarios.
I'd start with having a go at clays and get a 28 or 30" game gun with either changeable (multi) chokes or something no tighter than 1/4 and 1/2
This will also be good for the crows and walked up game shooting whuich is great for the dogs too.
That should keep you busy until the autumn and by that time, if you want to do some wildfowling then you can look for a suitable piece for that.

Shotguns don't shoot-out like rifles, second hand is the way to go, there are plenty out there, go to a clay shooting ground (most have shops) and take thier advice regarding fit.
Shotgun shooting is 'completely' different from rifle shooting, shooting clays is your 'plinking/practice', the more you practice the better you will get.

 

[Pedro]

I'd agree that an over and under is ideal as a first gun, simply because it can do it all. Berettas are excellent guns and aren't top of the sales charts for nothing. However, pretty much every gun new or built in the last 20 years will be reliable (assuming it hasn't been abused). In an ideal world you'd buy a gun that has been measured to fit you, but fear not, an average gun, which most off the shelf guns are, will fit the average human. But don't buy one until you can handle it, mount it (ooer missus) a few times and like it's feel. Check what the stamp marks are and you should look for a 3" chamber (a 2.75 might not be a deal breaker), if not multi chokes, then a quarter and a half and ideally again proofed for superior steel. You also need to look either for a game gun (usually a bit lighter and fixed chokes) or a sporter, probably much the same gun but multi choked. Steer clear of clay guns. They can be heavier (not good to cart around for hours) and have raised ribs, which can confuse. By going down that route above, your new (to you) gun will do everything from wildfowling, vermin control, not look out of place on a pheasant shoot, rough shooting and even clays. An expert at nothing, but pretty good at everything. As for barrel length, that depends on you. Again an average sized human would be quite at home with 28". If you are over 6' then you could also try a 30". Unless you are very big, I'd put a 32" at the bottom of the list. Rough shooting it'll catch on more and be heavier and more awkward to lug around, although they have their uses.

And as Miki says, shooting shotguns is more about reactions and muscle memory, rather than squinting down sights and holding your breath and the more you do it, the better you'll be. I always recall that in WW2 fighter pilots were taught the importance of lead by shooting clay pigeons. Occasionally you might see the odd ex-RAF shotgun for sale. Not that I'd recommend one for you!

 

[Len the dog]

^^^This.
If you’re thinking of dusting a few clays don’t go for a semi auto, you’ll be as welcome as Harry at Sandringham next Christmas.