Skull cap prep

[Jagged77]

I’ve got a load of nice Roe and Sika heads that I want to cap - I’ve never done one or seen it done.

Is it as straightforward as a cut in between the eye sockets and antlers and then down the back of the head? Does it need a jig for best results or can it be done by hand?

The other alternative is either buying a jig or getting someone to do it for me I suppose but that would leave more of the skull.

Appreciate any advice or tips!

 

[75]

I'm pretty sure I've got a roe jig here you can have but I tend to just do them freehand with an old wood saw - if you cut from both sides and meet in the middle it tends to be easier to get things to line up and a run over with a sander afterwards can flatten them out if things aren't perfect.

This is a good guide for where to cut: https://bestpracticeguides.scot/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/carcass_trophy.pdf

 

[Jagged77]

I'm pretty sure I've got a roe jig here you can have but I tend to just do them freehand with an old wood saw - if you cut from both sides and meet in the middle it tends to be easier to get things to line up and a run over with a sander afterwards can flatten them out if things aren't perfect.

This is a good guide for where to cut: https://bestpracticeguides.scot/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/carcass_trophy.pdf

Thank you! I might well come and borrow it if that’s ok?

 

[HonestJohn]

Gave up on the jigs a long time ago. You need a long very thin saw made for the job, and they tend to also be horrible at cutting bone..not tough enough for the hard parts, and so coarse that when coming down into the weaker nose bones, they shred them

I’d recommend freehand as well

 

[Jagged77]

Gave up on the jigs a long time ago. You need a long very thin saw made for the job, and they tend to also be horrible at cutting bone..not tough enough for the hard parts, and so coarse that when coming down into the weaker nose bones, they shred them

I’d recommend freehand as well

Good to know, thanks. I’ve got plenty to practice on so I guess it can’t hurt to try and see how I get on.

 

[75]

If they are dry then you will want a fairly fine saw. I just use a basic wood saw when they are fresh but I suspect dry bone will splinter much more easily. Not a problem to borrow the jig but as HonestJohn says, the saw that comes with it is fairly course and isn't great, which is why I gave up on it too I think.

 

[Klenchblaize]

I like the "long cut" as it looks neater when mounted and makes sanding for perfect symmetry that much easier.

That said I'm guessing you don't want to do this to medal quality heads before measurement or you'll lose points?

K

 

[Jagged77]

I like the "long cut" as it looks neater when mounted and makes sanding for perfect symmetry that much easier.

That said I'm guessing you don't want to do this to medal quality heads before measurement or you'll lose points?

K

Just had a brief discussion with the boss, she’d prefer a long cut with the nose!

No medal heads, I just want to take a few nice UK heads to New Zealand. The bio security is extremely strict but should be ok as long as they are completely clean. Not so easy to show if the heads are intact so cutting is the way to go.