Something is definitely not right with my scope

Thanks for all the useful replies. I've been inspired to check some things.

I took the scope and mount off the rifle. I can see no indication that the mount is not flat and tight to the action, nor that the scope is not sitting properly in the rings. There are no anti-mar inserts, BTW (to answer @Klenchblaize)

I measured from the mount base to the inside bottom of the ring at both ends with a Mitutoyo digital calliper. The dimensions are identical (within the precision of the callipers - 0.01mm).

I counted scope clicks up and down from the zeroed setting. There were 37 up and 119 down. This discounts the idea that it's just the indicator that's at fault.

I used the mirror method to centre the scope (thanks for that @HandB - I'd never heard of that before). From the centred position there were 69 clicks up and 84 down. This is not a cheap scope - is that acceptable?

I've ordered another mount (3 mm higher to give a little more clearance between scope and barrel, but I don't expect it to make a difference to the zero position given that I've measured the current mount and it appears to be perfectly level.

I welcome any thoughts.

U.
 
Thanks for all the useful replies. I've been inspired to check some things.

I took the scope and mount off the rifle. I can see no indication that the mount is not flat and tight to the action, nor that the scope is not sitting properly in the rings. There are no anti-mar inserts, BTW (to answer @Klenchblaize)

I measured from the mount base to the inside bottom of the ring at both ends with a Mitutoyo digital calliper. The dimensions are identical (within the precision of the callipers - 0.01mm).

I counted scope clicks up and down from the zeroed setting. There were 37 up and 119 down. This discounts the idea that it's just the indicator that's at fault.

I used the mirror method to centre the scope (thanks for that @HandB - I'd never heard of that before). From the centred position there were 69 clicks up and 84 down. This is not a cheap scope - is that acceptable?

I've ordered another mount (3 mm higher to give a little more clearance between scope and barrel, but I don't expect it to make a difference to the zero position given that I've measured the current mount and it appears to be perfectly level.

I welcome any thoughts.

U.
I really don't think you have a problem and you're making an issue about nothing. The indicator sits where it sits, there's no changing it. You have zeroed the rifle and it's is what it is on that particular set up. It would vary from rifle to rifle. Why do you assume it should sit in the green? And what is the problem with it being in red?
 
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Thanks for all the useful replies. I've been inspired to check some things.

I took the scope and mount off the rifle. I can see no indication that the mount is not flat and tight to the action, nor that the scope is not sitting properly in the rings. There are no anti-mar inserts, BTW (to answer @Klenchblaize)

I measured from the mount base to the inside bottom of the ring at both ends with a Mitutoyo digital calliper. The dimensions are identical (within the precision of the callipers - 0.01mm).

I counted scope clicks up and down from the zeroed setting. There were 37 up and 119 down. This discounts the idea that it's just the indicator that's at fault.

I used the mirror method to centre the scope (thanks for that @HandB - I'd never heard of that before). From the centred position there were 69 clicks up and 84 down. This is not a cheap scope - is that acceptable?

I've ordered another mount (3 mm higher to give a little more clearance between scope and barrel, but I don't expect it to make a difference to the zero position given that I've measured the current mount and it appears to be perfectly level.

I welcome any thoughts.

U.
That's not acceptable - when your reticle is centred using the mirror method, you should find the click value up and down is approximately the same. In your case 75 to 77 clicks up or down. Schmidt and Bender PMii scopes are deliberately set in the factory so the reticle is centred with 75% of the click values up. But this scope is off centred the other way. The bad way.
 
From the centred position there were 69 clicks up and 84 down. This is not a cheap scope - is that acceptable?
The mirror method is very handy for detecting major faults of the turret adjustments, but it is not perfect. If you change the position of your eye just a wee bit the reticle will move off the previously presumed centre again - parallax. I don't think your scope is at fault.

Im trying to understand this. Let's have a look what it says in the manual for clarity. Do a photo or screen shot.
Haven't you ever encountered this? You or someone else makes an adjustment to either windage or elevation and the resulting POI is not where it was expected to be?
See the red box below. This is the explanation.

Posicon.webp
 
The mirror method is very handy for detecting major faults of the turret adjustments, but it is not perfect. If you change the position of your eye just a wee bit the reticle will move off the previously presumed centre again - parallax. I don't think your scope is at fault.


Haven't you ever encountered this? You or someone else makes an adjustment to either windage or elevation and the resulting POI is not where it was expected to be?
See the red box below. This is the explanation.

View attachment 241052
I see thanks for that explanation. No I haven't ever encountered this problem before. The OP hasn't mentioned any issues with zeroing and still has 37 clicks left to play with. Presumably the clicks up and down have been correct during the zeroing process? Sounds like a 10 or 20moa rail would centre the reticle into the middle of the available adjustment range again but is it necessary? Iike yourself I still don't think this is a scope issue.
It's a hunting scope not intended for dialing in long range shots so why do anything now it's zeroed?
As I see it the solution would be either leave it alone now its zeroed, or use a 10 or 20moa rail to gain back some clicks in the opposite direction.
It would be interesting to see if another scope mounted and zeroed on the same mounts and rifle ends up with the reticle in the same position "click wise"
I suspect it would.
 
It would be interesting to see if another scope mounted and zeroed on the same mounts and rifle ends up with the reticle in the same position "click wise"
I suspect it would.
Not me. I once had exactly the same problem. This was with a Blaser R93. I had got a new S&B Stratos scope and a Blaser (so I thought) saddle mount off eGun. On zeroing the setup I ended up in the same situation as the OP. As it turned out the mount was FOR Blaser but not BY Blaser. I got an original mount and the scope settings for attaining a zero went beck into the regular range.
 
Not me. I once had exactly the same problem. This was with a Blaser R93. I had got a new S&B Stratos scope and a Blaser (so I thought) saddle mount off eGun. On zeroing the setup I ended up in the same situation as the OP. As it turned out the mount was FOR Blaser but not BY Blaser. I got an original mount and the scope settings for attaining a zero went beck into the regular range.
Just to avoid any irritations. There are of course quite a few non-original mounts for Blaser which are perfectly fine such as Innomount, Henneberger and other. The one I was speaking of was a cheap fake.
 
This is very true!


I'll be stuffed if I ever want to take it for a play on the 600m range though. But more importantly, I'm reasonably sure that it's indicative that something is wrong - either with the scope or the mount - and I'd like to get to the bottom of it.

Seems like a common view is that I should rotate the mount through 180 degrees (which is feasible - it has no cut-out). The mount is not meant to have any inclination, but it's worth trying.
 
I think something is objectively wrong with the scope when the optical zero is significantly different from the mechanical zero (as per @HandB). I think I will ask the dealer (the excellent Macleod) whether they think it should go back to S&B.

We're all different, I guess, but to me "It's only a stalking rifle. Don't worry about it being at the extreme of adjustment at 100m" is not how I feel about a brand new £1500 scope combined with a brand new rifle and brand new mounts.
 
I think something is objectively wrong with the scope when the optical zero is significantly different from the mechanical zero (as per @HandB). I think I will ask the dealer (the excellent Macleod) whether they think it should go back to S&B.

We're all different, I guess, but to me "It's only a stalking rifle. Don't worry about it being at the extreme of adjustment at 100m" is not how I feel about a brand new £1500 scope combined with a brand new rifle and brand new mounts.
Read my post , man.
How do you define 'the zeroed setting'?
Alining the mirrored reticle. Read the posts.
 
I think something is objectively wrong with the scope when the optical zero is significantly different from the mechanical zero
I'm not sure what that means - can you explain?

I guess that scopes are adjustable because rifles and mounts vary, so I think I wouldn't be too worries about the set-up described as long as I wasn't going to need more elevation adjustment than there is.

I would, however, try the setup with the mount the other way round just to see whether that had anything to do with it.

There's much to be said for Optilocks, though, I feel.
:)
 
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