Separate rifle with Thermion on top.How will such a setup accommodate a front mounted thermal/NV unit?!
Separate rifle with Thermion on top.How will such a setup accommodate a front mounted thermal/NV unit?!
I really don't think you have a problem and you're making an issue about nothing. The indicator sits where it sits, there's no changing it. You have zeroed the rifle and it's is what it is on that particular set up. It would vary from rifle to rifle. Why do you assume it should sit in the green? And what is the problem with it being in red?Thanks for all the useful replies. I've been inspired to check some things.
I took the scope and mount off the rifle. I can see no indication that the mount is not flat and tight to the action, nor that the scope is not sitting properly in the rings. There are no anti-mar inserts, BTW (to answer @Klenchblaize)
I measured from the mount base to the inside bottom of the ring at both ends with a Mitutoyo digital calliper. The dimensions are identical (within the precision of the callipers - 0.01mm).
I counted scope clicks up and down from the zeroed setting. There were 37 up and 119 down. This discounts the idea that it's just the indicator that's at fault.
I used the mirror method to centre the scope (thanks for that @HandB - I'd never heard of that before). From the centred position there were 69 clicks up and 84 down. This is not a cheap scope - is that acceptable?
I've ordered another mount (3 mm higher to give a little more clearance between scope and barrel, but I don't expect it to make a difference to the zero position given that I've measured the current mount and it appears to be perfectly level.
I welcome any thoughts.
U.
Why do you assume it should sit in the green?
Im trying to understand this. Let's have a look what it says in the manual for clarity. Do a photo or screen shot.Because that's what S&B say in the manual.
That's not acceptable - when your reticle is centred using the mirror method, you should find the click value up and down is approximately the same. In your case 75 to 77 clicks up or down. Schmidt and Bender PMii scopes are deliberately set in the factory so the reticle is centred with 75% of the click values up. But this scope is off centred the other way. The bad way.Thanks for all the useful replies. I've been inspired to check some things.
I took the scope and mount off the rifle. I can see no indication that the mount is not flat and tight to the action, nor that the scope is not sitting properly in the rings. There are no anti-mar inserts, BTW (to answer @Klenchblaize)
I measured from the mount base to the inside bottom of the ring at both ends with a Mitutoyo digital calliper. The dimensions are identical (within the precision of the callipers - 0.01mm).
I counted scope clicks up and down from the zeroed setting. There were 37 up and 119 down. This discounts the idea that it's just the indicator that's at fault.
I used the mirror method to centre the scope (thanks for that @HandB - I'd never heard of that before). From the centred position there were 69 clicks up and 84 down. This is not a cheap scope - is that acceptable?
I've ordered another mount (3 mm higher to give a little more clearance between scope and barrel, but I don't expect it to make a difference to the zero position given that I've measured the current mount and it appears to be perfectly level.
I welcome any thoughts.
U.
The mirror method is very handy for detecting major faults of the turret adjustments, but it is not perfect. If you change the position of your eye just a wee bit the reticle will move off the previously presumed centre again - parallax. I don't think your scope is at fault.From the centred position there were 69 clicks up and 84 down. This is not a cheap scope - is that acceptable?
Haven't you ever encountered this? You or someone else makes an adjustment to either windage or elevation and the resulting POI is not where it was expected to be?Im trying to understand this. Let's have a look what it says in the manual for clarity. Do a photo or screen shot.

I see thanks for that explanation. No I haven't ever encountered this problem before. The OP hasn't mentioned any issues with zeroing and still has 37 clicks left to play with. Presumably the clicks up and down have been correct during the zeroing process? Sounds like a 10 or 20moa rail would centre the reticle into the middle of the available adjustment range again but is it necessary? Iike yourself I still don't think this is a scope issue.The mirror method is very handy for detecting major faults of the turret adjustments, but it is not perfect. If you change the position of your eye just a wee bit the reticle will move off the previously presumed centre again - parallax. I don't think your scope is at fault.
Haven't you ever encountered this? You or someone else makes an adjustment to either windage or elevation and the resulting POI is not where it was expected to be?
See the red box below. This is the explanation.
View attachment 241052
Not me. I once had exactly the same problem. This was with a Blaser R93. I had got a new S&B Stratos scope and a Blaser (so I thought) saddle mount off eGun. On zeroing the setup I ended up in the same situation as the OP. As it turned out the mount was FOR Blaser but not BY Blaser. I got an original mount and the scope settings for attaining a zero went beck into the regular range.It would be interesting to see if another scope mounted and zeroed on the same mounts and rifle ends up with the reticle in the same position "click wise"
I suspect it would.
Just to avoid any irritations. There are of course quite a few non-original mounts for Blaser which are perfectly fine such as Innomount, Henneberger and other. The one I was speaking of was a cheap fake.Not me. I once had exactly the same problem. This was with a Blaser R93. I had got a new S&B Stratos scope and a Blaser (so I thought) saddle mount off eGun. On zeroing the setup I ended up in the same situation as the OP. As it turned out the mount was FOR Blaser but not BY Blaser. I got an original mount and the scope settings for attaining a zero went beck into the regular range.
This is very true!
I'll be stuffed if I ever want to take it for a play on the 600m range though. But more importantly, I'm reasonably sure that it's indicative that something is wrong - either with the scope or the mount - and I'd like to get to the bottom of it.
Seems like a common view is that I should rotate the mount through 180 degrees (which is feasible - it has no cut-out). The mount is not meant to have any inclination, but it's worth trying.
How do you define 'the zeroed setting'?I counted scope clicks up and down from the zeroed setting. There were 37 up and 119 down. This discounts the idea that it's just the indicator that's at fault.
Read my post , man.I think something is objectively wrong with the scope when the optical zero is significantly different from the mechanical zero (as per @HandB). I think I will ask the dealer (the excellent Macleod) whether they think it should go back to S&B.
We're all different, I guess, but to me "It's only a stalking rifle. Don't worry about it being at the extreme of adjustment at 100m" is not how I feel about a brand new £1500 scope combined with a brand new rifle and brand new mounts.
Alining the mirrored reticle. Read the posts.How do you define 'the zeroed setting'?
I'm not sure what that means - can you explain?I think something is objectively wrong with the scope when the optical zero is significantly different from the mechanical zero
I do rather feel some of the contributors to this thread need to calm down and, more importantly, exercise (wait for it!) greater conetrol.
K
My question was aimed at UrbanRead my post , man.
Alining the mirrored reticle. Read the posts.