The blaser click!

[Motard]

easier cure: buy a redding solo body die and push hem all back without need of dismantling. it works 100/100 safely

... & or: buy a bargain Lee Full Die and chunk away the whole threaded head, where the decapping pin is seated..

 

[Motard]

Any rifle, whether its a blaser, a bolt action, break action action should not fire unless the action is fully closed. With any bolt only put handle half way down - it won’t fire.

In a Blaser if the bolt is not fully forward then the locking lugs are not fully engaged.

With a bolt completely in battery and then gun were to fire the bolt may be coming back pretty fast.

Some cartridges and ammo may well be close to the upper end of tolerances in terms of length and may exert a resistance to the bolt closing. I have noticed this with some factory ammo, and reloads when I haven’t fully resized the case - ie the shell holder is not firmly pressed at bottom of die.

It can also occur when chamber gets grubby with carbon build up at the lands.

A firm forward pressure on the bolt as you load usually solves problem in the field.

That is Sir, but with straight pull rifles, Blasers especially, You often don't have the need pushing force to set back the brass. Bolt action's camming system is way powerfull in this regard.

 

[Lateral]

Yup, as in my post No10 above. 2thou set back on the case shoulder and all was sweet.

I'm pushing this, because I don't want people new to Blaser to think they have bad/faulty ammunition just because they experience the click !

Ammunition that needs the shoulder bumping is too long for the chamber, and is preventing the bolt from closing fully. This replicates the Blaser click, where the bolt hasn't locked home. If it were a normal bolt action, you wouldn't be able to fully rotate the bolt to locate the lugs.

Also, the spec' tolerances on some Blaser R8 barrels is shocking, and even ammunition at SAMMI spec', factory, or hand loaded won't allow the bolt to lock home. I've seen this on several R8 30-06's.

As a test, camber one of your good rounds, and then ease the bolt back, it's almost two stage, then pull the trigger, you'll get the click, but the round won't fire

 

[North Cornwall Deer]

I have had it a couple times once on a roe doe and the other on Chinese water deer, I didn’t get another chance at either.

Although it was caused by me trying to load the rifle quietly and not hammering the bolt home.
I haven’t noticed an issue with ppu in 6.5x55 R8

 

[timbrayford]

All to do with ammo. I had a 6.5x55SE Blaser when they first came out. I used to only neck size when I reloaded. Started with new Lapua brass and after 4 or 5 reloads I was getting the click occasionally. It didn't matter how hard I rammed the bolt forward. I then started to full size my brass and the click disappeared forever.

I always have to fl. size for my blaser 243 but for the 270 I just neck size

 

[Selous]

... & or: buy a bargain Lee Full Die and chunk away the whole threaded head, where the decapping pin is seated..

Problem with using a FL die without the recapping rod is that the neck will also be resized against the resistance of the bullet. This doesn’t happen with a Redding body die that only touches the body of the case and the shoulder but not the neck.

 

[Motard]

Problem with using a FL die without the recapping rod is that the neck will also be resized against the resistance of the bullet. This doesn’t happen with a Redding body die that only touches the body of the case and the shoulder but not the neck.

I did'nt made myself understood. Sorry. I use the Redding solo body dies or (for few calibers that are not available by Redding) the mangled Lee, only after full sizing, just in case of factory ammo or wrong reloaded rounds that are non chambering.