Tikka t3 stainless

[Rusty Gate]

The shop has replied to my email. I don't think anything else will happen View attachment 135029

Pretty poor for sure.

The issue's not that it's a new breakthrough material that we need enlightening as to its characteristics, care & use! A lot of you guy's made a purchase off the back of standards & build quality you previously enjoyed for many years of stainless. The question is, why this model & material now?

 

[Donnachaidh]

Tikka's website says 'With the metal parts made from Sako's high grade stainless steel, this is a sturdy and long-lasting choice for all weather conditions'.
In my own experience, I don't think it seems any more sturdy than blued steel.

 

[Miki]

Like I said in post#2
Stainless oxidises when the protective layer of Chromium Oxide gets damaged. Baking soda and water with a soft nylon brush will clean the marks off, rinse with water and dry thoroughly. The Chromium layer is self repairing when in contact with Oxygen at room temperatures.

There maybe some contamination in the manufacturing process (as someone said earlier) but stainless 416R has less Nickle in it than 316 stainless so is more 'prone' to allowing the 80(odd)% iron content to oxidise/rust.
Sweat (from your hands) will rust unless the Chromium Oxide layer has built up. 416R is not any more resistant that Carbon 4150 (standard steel rifle barrels). Carbon steel is 'blued' or sealed to stop the oxidisation forming but 416R need to build up a natural layer of protection which it does when exposed to Oxygen in a dry environment.

Adding a layer of oil stops the oxygen getting to the alloy and stops the natural barrier forming. It will protect the barrel but as far as I can see if you damage/remove the oxide layer and you oil, you need to always oil.
You can use a substance (a pretty nasty mix of hydrofluoric and nitric acid) called pickling paste which will remove the surface layer and etch out any iron allowing the alloy to self passivate. If you do, don't get any anywhere near the crown or inside the barrel, or on your skin as it burns hole in you !! I'd be tempted to try the baking soda method first and leave it for a day or two.

Difference between Carbon and Stainless barrel steel/alloy linky
Stainless passivation linky
Dangers of pickling paste (HSE) linky

 

[rob4586]

If I were you guys on this thread I would be contacting each other to put in individual complaints & ready a collective letter to trading standards ( see citizens advice for consumer rights/fit for purpose) noting the same issue when your given the expected poor reply. The ones with the not so recent items will benefit through this approach also.

My feeling on Tikka's previous build quality is they may think these have been poorly maintined. If its brought to their attention fully & propperly I hope they find the supplier of the grade steel has a quality control issue, which they can claim back so why should you all lose out. They dont sell substandard over night for no hood reason, that's one reputation to look after for sure! So look after the customer.
Take the money & run day's are done.

Good point, well made. I'll be doing just that.

 

[Hudson12]

Good point, well made. I'll be doing just that.

Let me see how I get in with my dealer then we can all join up and perhaps put the case to them

 

[Superdrazy]

Here is the lasted email I've received from gmk after emailing my dealer.

I've indeed cleaned up the rust as recommended by the dealer. And no rust visible.

Now the problem will be that I will never be able to touch the rifle metal without the fear my hands will make my rifle rust or neither will be comfortable taking the rifle out at night in a damp air.

My other stainless rifles has no rust and never really oiled them just bore clean.
Luck for some that rust hasn't occured but it doesn't mean it's our fault like some people might imply.

I think regardless of either stainless rust or not. We the ones that have has this problem (maybe bad batch) get together and make a case and file complaints

I haven't yet emailed GMK as I'm carefully analysing it. I'm looking to help everyone else and not just my case.

 

[Hudson12]

I spoke with my dealer again. Yesterday and he is going to contact gmk and also record the fault as my rust is almost identical as yours

 

[Koenig]

If that rifle has been dried off/wiped over with an oily rag and stored in a damp free cabinet there’s no way it should be rusting as it has. The T3 Lite stainless is advertised as being able to take extreme weather in its stride (albeit with proper care). I’ve always found GMK to be perfectly reasonable with customer aftercare so give them a chance to look at the rifle and respond. Good luck with resolving the matter.

 

[old keeper]

Having had rifles for seventy years I admit to having the odd minor rust problem, and once a seized mod. I can also admit that every one of those problems was my own fault!

 

[ejg]

People forget a few things.
Blued rifles are already rusted, rust as a protective layer. So it does take a bit to get them to rust further … except inside the barrel where we have bare unprotected steel... but nobody sees that .. so it is ok. Bare unprotected non stainless steel can and will rust in a matter of hours.
Did anyone analyse the steels of previous vs newer Tikka stainless rifles? Is there a difference ? I never noticed a difference but never analysed it either. One problem or where maybe the biggest difference is with newer gen stainless, might be the bead blasting process, the quest for non reflective surfaces is the opposite of what is needed to protect against rust.
Knowing that stainless rifles are not made of the proper "stainless" material as in boat railings etc. we should get used to a certain amount of protection of the material.
I find over time the stainless rifles seem to get better, maybe smoothen off with use and seem to imbed the oil which make them more resistent to rust.

Best idea for those with rust issues on a stainless Sako/Tikka, just sell and get a Blaser….

edi

 

[ejg]

Bedded a Sako 75 yesterday and a Sako 85 today, both well used both stainless, both a few spots of rust. I don't think the stainless quality changed much over the years.
edi

 

[Hudson12]

People forget a few things.
Blued rifles are already rusted, rust as a protective layer. So it does take a bit to get them to rust further … except inside the barrel where we have bare unprotected steel... but nobody sees that .. so it is ok. Bare unprotected non stainless steel can and will rust in a matter of hours.
Did anyone analyse the steels of previous vs newer Tikka stainless rifles? Is there a difference ? I never noticed a difference but never analysed it either. One problem or where maybe the biggest difference is with newer gen stainless, might be the bead blasting process, the quest for non reflective surfaces is the opposite of what is needed to protect against rust.
Knowing that stainless rifles are not made of the proper "stainless" material as in boat railings etc. we should get used to a certain amount of protection of the material.
I find over time the stainless rifles seem to get better, maybe smoothen off with use and seem to imbed the oil which make them more resistent to rust.

Best idea for those with rust issues on a stainless Sako/Tikka, just sell and get a Blaser….

edi

Actually looking at them may opt for just one calibre with the option of a barrel swap than two tikkas providing they’ll take them back

 

[Highlandsjohn]

Anyone who has machined modern out of the box stainless rifles and also a variety of stainless steels, used in engineering applications,will know there is a huge difference. Ruger(s) on the left (not bead blasted) being one of the exceptions in my pic although they can also pick up surface rust marks but are easier dealt with than those bead blasted..

.

 

[Johno2486]

I have 2 Tikka 3tx in Stainless in 243 & 22.250, both have seen plenty of Scottish rain & foggy damp weather, & both show no signs of rust, I made myself a temp controlled drying
cabinet,basically a lined insulated old gun cabinet (bolted fixed to wall in gun room next to normal cabinets) this is fitted with reptile heat strips / mats to sides and back of cabinet
with Habitat pulse stat to control the temperature , I switch cabinet on before I go out or if I'm away for few days I'll set it on electronic timer to switch on prior to my return, (could
also be controlled remotely by a wifi on/off switch if required)

As it's pulse thermostat & not an on/off stat, temperature stays constant to wherever it's set with no drop, probe reads temp inside cabinets, thermostat affixed to outside of cabinet. - (cheap to run)

(I used to breed/keep snakes, so had the kit there) - may sound excessive to some but works a treat) so on returning home, if been out in the wet / damp conditions etc rifle wiped down dry rag/paper etc
stripped & sprayed with WD40 & placed in the heated drying locked cabinet normally overnight, removed next checked over & wiped down with an oily rag & put away in proper cabinet,
do this with all my rifles / SG never once had any rust issues.. & more importantly I don't have to worry about leaving FA unsecured in an area to dry, as this cabinet also has been inspected/passed by FAO.

 

[rob4586]

How have people got on?

 

[Superdrazy]

How have people got on?

I've gave up . Gonna cerakote it event when if it gets worst

 

[rob4586]

I've gave up . Gonna cerakote it event when if it gets worst

Shame, I hope it stabilises for you. I think my rust was much worse than yours.

 

[Hudson12]

How have people got on?

Whistle Dixie it’s my fault my gunshop said I would get no where with them and he wasn’t wrong

 

[rob4586]

Whistle Dixie it’s my fault my gunshop said I would get no where with them and he wasn’t wrong

They've replaced my rifle after a long argument. Hopefully it doesn't just do the same thing again!!

 

[FRANKIEBOY]

Stainless will rust, however, it does depend on the grade of stainless as to how much. As said by a few on here, the best prevention is cleaning and oiling but undoubtedly there will be occasions when spots will show, fact of life. I own a Tikka T3X Stainless and if you sick a magnet on the barrel, it adheres readily, therefore there is a fair amount on iron in the make up of the steel. Just keep cleaning but more importantly, enjoying using it!