Tikka T3X Lite Stainless, 20 inch 6.5CM - Copper Ammo - 1st hand experience?

[75]

If you’ve tried that many options with a new tikka, I’d be taking it back to the shop and having it checked / get them to shoot it sub-moa.

My new T3 (albeit in 308) was the easiest rifle I have ever loaded for (copper).

 

[Cotswold Sporting]

If you’ve tried that many options with a new tikka, I’d be taking it back to the shop and having it checked / get them to shoot it sub-moa.

My new T3 (albeit in 308) was the easiest rifle I have ever loaded for (copper).

Agreed

 

[20-250]

Have you cleaned the bore?

 

[MAJ]

Have you cleaned the bore?

Usually do ~3 patches with Boretec Eliminator, followed by 7-10 dry patches until there's not a mark on them. That's prior to using, so I know the bore is clean/dry and free of any oil/cleaner. I think that counts, but I'm all ears if i'm missing something.

The initial patches with the Boretec on them come out with a bit of blue on them, which I believe is from copper fouling...not sure if I should be scrubbing with a nylon brush also until this goes? (I also use a pull-through after shooting just to stop corrosion between sessions)

The rifle has probably had around 100 rounds through it. Cleaned like the above between every session.

 

[20-250]

I've used Eliminator but find that after 3 patches I still shift carbon. I prefer overnight soaking with Forrest Bore Foam to be honest.

 

[Creedmoor Bob]

I spent a very expensive few weeks trying to find a full copper bullet that was as accurate as the sako game heads I used to buy that are no longer manufactured. Couldn't find one, so opted to load my own and Barnes TTSX was what I settled on, very good grouping from 50m- 200m which is the range I shoot at in the lowland woodlands. Haven't got time to load myself so my local gunsmith does me 100 at a time for a quid a bullet. By the time I bought the heads it works out at just over £2 per round and lasts me the whole season.

 

[Terrydeer]

Hi all,

Looking for 1st hand experience of COPPER ammo in the above rifle. (which I have)

This version of the T3X rifle seem common at the moment, so I figured people will have found rounds that work well in it.

Personally I am struggling to find a round that group well and consistently in it.

I have settled on Norma TipStrike (lead) for now because only that, or Norma EvoStrike (tin) will group sensibly. I have tried around 8 boxes of factory ammo so far, 5 of which copper, and none of them are inspiring confidence...The above mentioned Norma rounds are ok though (which makes me believe it's not user error) ... but ultimately I'd like to use copper.

Wondering what people are using. The Sako Blades and Powerhead 2's are both particularly terrible through it.

Some limited success with S+B blue, and Hornady Superperormance CX, but still not great. Compared to the Norma.

A common feature seems to be a triangular group where the 1st shot goes by itself, then the 2nd and 3rd go together somewhere else. (Less so with Norma)

I am cleaning the barrel with a Jakele pull-through with Brunox orange after use, and boretec eliminator followed by dry patches before use

Any advice welcome, apart from Creedmoor bashing

I have a superlite and I had the same problem while in a factory stock. I looked at quite a few forums and people had similar issues, the action screws and torque settings seemed to eradicate the issues. I settled on 45lbs for the front and 40lbs for the rear, I will try and find the article.

 

[MAJ]

So I just checked the torque settings of the action screws, which are 45lbs...in the process I took off the stock, and realised that the barrel isn't actually free-floating all the way to the action. The first 3 inches of barrel are in contact with a couple of ridges on the inside of the synthetic stock. It looks like it's been designed this way. A bit of Googling led me to talk of sanding these off haha. Kind of makes sense, but would be surprised to have to start modifying a new rifle...anyone tried?

 

[Cotswold Sporting]

So I just checked the torque settings of the action screws, which are 45lbs...in the process I took off the stock, and realised that the barrel isn't actually free-floating all the way to the action. The first 3 inches of barrel are in contact with a couple of ridges on the inside of the synthetic stock. It looks like it's been designed this way. A bit of Googling led me to talk of sanding these off haha. Kind of makes sense, but would be surprised to have to start modifying a new rifle...anyone tried?

If a bit of A4 paper won’t run up the gap as far as the point where the barrel screws into the action then it’s not correct. Please refer to post #8 on here. This so be your issue I am pretty certain. If you sand the stock or take it to the RFD that sold the rifle for sorting I am pretty sure it will shoot better after.

 

[Utectok]

So I just checked the torque settings of the action screws, which are 45lbs...in the process I took off the stock, and realised that the barrel isn't actually free-floating all the way to the action. The first 3 inches of barrel are in contact with a couple of ridges on the inside of the synthetic stock. It looks like it's been designed this way. A bit of Googling led me to talk of sanding these off haha. Kind of makes sense, but would be surprised to have to start modifying a new rifle...anyone tried?

It should free float right to the action it is common for mass produced factory stocks to need a little fettling I have done a few in my time… having said that touching the stock at the thin end of the barrel has a far greater effect on dispersion

 

[MAJ]

It should free float right to the action it is common for mass produced factory stocks to need a little fettling i have done a few in my time

This is interesting. It definitely doesn't free float all the way to the action, but it really looks like it was designed not to. There are marks (which rubbed off) on the underside of the barrel where it has been rubbing against the stock, so I can tell there has been contact (around 3" out from the action). I have ordered a knackered/cheap old T3 stock from Ebay which I will modify to make sure is completely free floating and will try with that. Then see what happens and go from there.

I would pop back to the RFD if they weren't over 2 hours away, so will mess around a bit more before going back to them. When I find a solution I will report back!

 

[Cotswold Sporting]

This is interesting. It definitely doesn't free float all the way to the action, but it really looks like it was designed not to. There are marks (which rubbed off) on the underside of the barrel where it has been rubbing against the stock, so I can tell there has been contact (around 3" out from the action). I have ordered a knackered/cheap old T3 stock from Ebay which I will modify to make sure is completely free floating and will try with that. Then see what happens and go from there.

I would pop back to the RFD if they weren't over 2 hours away, so will mess around a bit more before going back to them. When I find a solution I will report back!

I can 100% guarantee you it should free float back to the action.

 

[Utectok]

This is interesting. It definitely doesn't free float all the way to the action, but it really looks like it was designed not to. There are marks (which rubbed off) on the underside of the barrel where it has been rubbing against the stock, so I can tell there has been contact (around 3" out from the action). I have ordered a knackered/cheap old T3 stock from Ebay which I will modify to make sure is completely free floating and will try with that. Then see what happens and go from there.

I would pop back to the RFD if they weren't over 2 hours away, so will mess around a bit more before going back to them. When I find a solution I will report back!

Sounds a plan

 

[takbok]

The Tikka T3 lites with plastic stocks aren't fully free floated. They shoot well though.

 

[Pete6.5]

Ive swapped backwards and forwards with copper and lead in a 6.5x47 without cleaning and it's never made a difference. Ive also found that some of the lathe cut copper bullets to be the most accurate I've ever shot. But this has all been with bullets that I reloaded.

 

[Utectok]

Ive swapped backwards and forwards with copper and lead in a 6.5x47 without cleaning and it's never made a difference. Ive also found that some of the lathe cut copper bullets to be the most accurate I've ever shot. But this has all been with bullets that I reloaded.

That’s also happened to me but sometimes I’d didn’t work so who knows tbh I’ve not even shot lead in my new barrel as I see no need

 

[robterps]

I would suggest that it’s odd for a Tikka T3X to not shoot the majority of decent factory ammo 1” or less. I have certainly used all of the ones you mentioned above and had good results through several rifles. Acton screws tight? Barrel free floating? Rail nice and tight? Rings done up correct etc? I would certainly hope you would have tried all these things before going too mad on buying £50+ a box ammo.

I had an issue with my T3X in 243, issue was then resolved when I sorted it out with the dremmal so the barrel was actually floating !

 

[MAJ]

Update:

I recieved the old Ebay stock to modify...it wasn't free-floating for first 3 inches either, so they must be designed like that. Either way, I hacked away until it was completely free all the way to the action.

Tried tonight but no difference.

Then, put the original stock back on, and took the mod off. Used my previously worst grouping factory ammo (90mm groups, Sako Poerhead 2's) ....and without the mod it fired a 30mm group with the same ammo.

Still not sub MOA, but a significant change. Anyone know why this may be, and what it might mean?!

 

[75]

Your mod is at fault. Have you previously tried groups without mod?

 

[MAJ]

Your mod is at fault. Have you previously tried groups without mod?

No, first time un-moderated. The un-modded groups still had shot number one in a different place to all following shots of the group, which seems to be a common occurance.