What do you feed your dog

Dr.John's gold for the workers when I had them and Baxters moist stuff for the old girl inside.

The outside lads also had tripe regularly (frozen stuff from our local pet place) and deer tripes during the park cull.
 
I too always favoured Skinners,however, the coat on my my lab bitch just seemd a bit dry,I've changed to CSJ dog food and i saw the transformation within a few days.
Were lucky to have a abattoir/meat processor open to joe public and sell a dog food mince sausage thing for 50p and a bag of bones for £1.50.
​They seem to love it.
 
Hi all,

Looking at getting a new dog for deer and general game (GSP), always been around dogs. Just trying to get a general idea of how much one will dent my wallet (costs such as food etc) per month. What brand of dog food is favored on here for a large working dog, as some brands like petplan although im sure is very good, is very expensive also (£50 per 15kg bag)

Also, do many on here take out pet insurance?

Regards

Ian

We use Jollyes own brand @ £ 8.99/ 15kg for our working Springers. We don't bother with insurance as we have found that it is cheaper to pay the odd large vet bill rather than paying premiums and there is the flexibility of not needing third party approval for treatments nor the dreaded exclusion clauses. atb Tim
 
I'm another with a gsp that uses Skinners, it's cheap and cheerful but does give a scurfy coat. Never bothered with dedication dog insurance ; you are probaly covered third party on your household ins. Best, Steve
 
For the last five years I have been feeding my cocker Arkwright's 15kg bag is £8.50 Coat looks Great, Plenty of energy,

atb Geoff
 
I'm another with a gsp that uses Skinners, it's cheap and cheerful but does give a scurfy coat. Never bothered with dedication dog insurance ; you are probaly covered third party on your household ins. Best, Steve

Add a little vegetable cooking oil, will cure the dry skin scurvy coat problems nine times out of ten.
 
Im picking my puppy clumber up on Friday, she is currently feed on wag, but I want to change her to a working puppy food, I was thinking about skinners field and trial but have seen it makes their coat scruffy so I think I have decided against that, can any one recommend a good puppy working food with a budget of around £25/30. Thoughts of feeding her fruit and veg a few times a week and raw meat? Good for a pup or not? My dad feeds his dog pro plan which is £50 a bag, his work pay for that so don't want to scrounge of him. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
I wouldnt worry about putting it onto a working food to be fair just a decent puppy then junior food. I use Chudleys and it seems good and then they go onto the working crunch. In fact ive never even heard of a working puppy food?

Have used Skinners working 23 and they did well on it but went up from £16/bag to nearly £19 over a short time and so i changed to Chudleys (although that has gone up in the last 3 weeks by a pound!)
 
Yeah skinners do a field and trial puppy mate. I have been looking at hills and what not bit it is ridiculously priced. I was just drawn towards skinners but ive been a bit off put with the way it makes there coat go dry. Would adding oily fish or olive oil/sun flower oil stop that?

Atb

Nathan
 
I have been feeding my Vizsla on raw food since he was a pup, the breader raised him on raw chicken and pro plan which i kept up with until about 6 months then switched to 100% raw. He gets a mix of lamb, chicken, green tripe, beef , fish, chicken carcass, rabbit, pheasant legs, lamb or beef ribs, chicken/duck necks and offal. I sometimes add raw veg to this and rice or pasta. The only cooked food he gets is leftovers.
 
BARF Diet for 4 years now

Feeding your dog has to fit in with your life style, once our last 2 dogs passed away at the age of 13, we replaced with 3 pups; 2 bitches and one dog. From 8 weeks old and on, (4 years now) we have been feeding the BARF diet, This is a more difficult way of feeding than the simple "dry food" Eukanuba or Science plan method and all 3 are doing well on the barf diet but truthfully I have found in the 4 years there is no difference between feeding the BARF diet or sticking to the dry food (as long as it is a quality dry food).
Our first 2 dogs (which past away at age of 13 years) were strong large dogs, the boy was 14 stone and our girl a good 10 stone and they were started on Eukanuba as pups and this altered through the years with Science Plan and other HIGH quality dry foods, often supplemented with raw meat.

Our 3 replacement pups were on the BARF diet since day one, chicken wings, legs, breasts as pups along with pilchards, tuna, raw fish & minced tripe

They now regularly feed on Heart & tripe as main diet as well as cut up beef, chicken, fish etc as well as veg especially carrots & turnip. If the catch rabbit or any other type of game its also there right to enjoy the feeding of it.

All 3 have grown up fit & healthy, strong boned & excellent coats but they are not as strong or as large as the last two we had, this is absolutely nothing to do with the diet but down to the kennel club encouraging breeders to breed a smaller dog which is totally wrong for the breed of dog I own.

I better say the working dogs we have are not for retrieving and if we tried that they would think they had gone to heaven for the day and would eat every piece of game shot down. Our dogs are Alaskan Malamutes trained to pull sledges and they are a difficult breed to handle but once trained (as much as you can train a malamute) they are amazing dogs

So as for diet; in my opinion both dry food & barf (raw) food diets work equally as well but it is very difficult if not impossible to try and convert a raw food dog onto dry food once the diet is established (Beware).
The BARF diet takes much more planning and time and equally as expensive as good quality dry food such as Eukanuba , science plan, Arden grange etc (you also need a separate freezer).

All our pups from litters are brought up on dry food as this is the easier way for people taking on a "first malamute" as malamutes are a bit more difficult than the average dog to handle and rear.

.
 
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