windage adjustment on tangent sights

How would you do that?


The Bay of E

Tactical Hunting Adjustable Front Sight Tool For SKS / Model 47 | eBay

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Superb - thanks Ed.

Presumably, once upon a time, we would all have known about these things, or even had one and known how to use it.

I don't suppose you actually have one?
 
the rear sight can move but am pretty sure is not designed to do so as a method of adjustment
the sight is the same width and the two pieces holding it it
any adjustment will mean one edge sticks out wont it?

front sight is designed to be adjusted, thats why they cut the male dovetail of the sight shorter than the female groove, so it can be adjusted within the range of the female groove

it will be marginal at best and won't look "unsightly" !!! (see what I did there!?)

Hey, don't go around saying I got something right! It will give me ideas above my station in life! :-D

David
 
Superb - thanks Ed.

Presumably, once upon a time, we would all have known about these things, or even had one and known how to use it.

I don't suppose you actually have one?

I believe I do!
dont ask me why or where it is but I will dig around!
 
I would not go drifting the front sight, yet.

This came came from the factory with the front sight centered up on the ramp, so you should be able to make a tiny adjustment to the rear sight and have it lined up. And I would not move anything until I had shot some variety of ammunition through it, to see what grouped the best, and where some of those shoot. Then adjust the sights to zero up that ammo ( one or several ).

Your front sight should look like the one posted by Rick6 on his 1981 Sako. I will take a photo of mine, which is about a year older than yours, with the hood on and hood off. I can find you a hood. It is a good thing for hunting in brush and the mountains, to protect the blade and bead. It also takes the side reflection off the sight in brighter light, which would make you shoot to one side.

This is also another reason to keep the front sight centered up: the original L61Rs came with a peep sight which mounted on the rear dovetail. The eye will want to center up the bead in the aperture. It will also want to center up the hood in the aperture, so you want the bead to be in the center of the hood - then just turn it over to your subconscious and shoot groups as well as with a scope.
 
I would not go drifting the front sight, yet.

I very much take your point - and won't touch a thing until I've shot precisely as you suggest! I'm just anticipating that things may be a little off and getting things ready for having to make the adjustments (nothing worse than being out without the tools or a clue of what to do...).

Your front sight should look like the one posted by Rick6 on his 1981 Sako. I will take a photo of mine, which is about a year older than yours, with the hood on and hood off. I can find you a hood. It is a good thing for hunting in brush and the mountains, to protect the blade and bead. It also takes the side reflection off the sight in brighter light, which would make you shoot to one side.

I would be EXTREMELY grateful if you could find a hood! No idea how I'd be able to pay you back. A very kind offer indeed.

The ultimate aim is to have this rifle set up for use in very wet conditions as a bombproof backup rifle, so that I can use the iron sights if/when the scope is out of action.
 
Does anyone know if/how it's possible to adjust them for windage (elevation is pretty easy, but I just can't see how to do the windage).
Thanks.

Your foresight is a dovetail fit. Adjust windage by drifting your foresight in the opposite direction you want the bullet to go. You do this by tapping the foresight using a brass punch or similar. Check first that the forsight hasn't been fixed in place by a 'stab' on the foresight 'male' dovetail and the barrel's 'female' dovetail. Others have suggested you undo the screws on the rearsight. You may sight that the rearsight has no windage adjustment. Before you do anything, test fire the rifle using 130 and 150g bullets. You may find it shoots to POA.

-JMS
 
I very much take your point - and won't touch a thing until I've shot precisely as you suggest! I'm just anticipating that things may be a little off and getting things ready for having to make the adjustments (nothing worse than being out without the tools or a clue of what to do...).

I would be EXTREMELY grateful if you could find a hood! No idea how I'd be able to pay you back. A very kind offer indeed.

The ultimate aim is to have this rifle set up for use in very wet conditions as a bombproof backup rifle, so that I can use the iron sights if/when the scope is out of action.

I will get on after a hood. Post or send a photo of your ramp and blade.

The inletting is not finished, so you need to seal it with a wood sealer like you would for varnish.

For really wet hunting, Bell & Carlson makes a nice synthetic stock for about $210 USD. That is what I am going to do. Before putting it in there for a season or trip in rain, wax it with Johson's paste wax ( for varnished furniture). It will come back off with a solvent, like Rem Kleen, kerosene, gasoline, etc. Then oil it and put it back in the nice wood stock.

If you use the old, original rings, you can zero them, mark them with some little dot of correction fluid at the screw slot, remove them and retightend with a coin to the same alignment, and be darn close to zero. Beretta makes a QD Optilock for about 4x the money. So, if it is raining, pull off the scope and put in in your coat, and use the irons.
 
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