solid copper for .224

Glad that you took the advise re the plastic tips and came to understand that length : cal ratio is what affects stability linky.
We had this game many years ago with the 17 Rem and the introduction of the hornady plastic tipped 25 grain bullet which never shot as well as the hollow-point, that couple of extra mm made all the difference!
 
Glad that you took the advise re the plastic tips and came to understand that length : cal ratio is what affects stability linky.
We had this game many years ago with the 17 Rem and the introduction of the hornady plastic tipped 25 grain bullet which never shot as well as the hollow-point, that couple of extra mm made all the difference!


Yes it is interesting
funnily enough some of the bullets I tried are the exact same length but the tail and ogive profile is the only difference leading to different bearing lengths and I assume different COG in relation to the length and point on the bearing surface

I can visualise why that would lead to stability issues depending on rotation rate
 
Pulling plastic/ballistic tips out of bullets may improve stability at short range, but it will affect ballistic coefficient (reducing it). This will reduce performance at longer ranges by increasing drop & windage so it seems counter productive to me.
Surely it makes sense to shoot a better match of bullet to the rifling & velocity. So either swap the barrel for a tighter twist, change bullet muzzle velocity or change bullet design and/or weight to get it into a fully stable zone of operation.
Flat base round nose bullets are the way to go if you want heavy for calibre bullets with hard hitting terminal balistics.

Ian
 
Pulling plastic/ballistic tips out of bullets may improve stability at short range, but it will affect ballistic coefficient (reducing it). This will reduce performance at longer ranges by increasing drop & windage so it seems counter productive to me.
Surely it makes sense to shoot a better match of bullet to the rifling & velocity. So either swap the barrel for a tighter twist, change bullet muzzle velocity or change bullet design and/or weight to get it into a fully stable zone of operation.
Flat base round nose bullets are the way to go if you want heavy for calibre bullets with hard hitting terminal balistics.

Ian


it was a point proving exercise
am not pulling tips on every load just to get it to work
that said they work very well and I but they are extremely destructive with such a large meplat

as it stands I moved that rifle onto SBK 40gr flat base and these copper 53gr
 
Hah, counter productive to have a bullet that does not 'stabilise at short range', what worth the BC 'advantage' if it don't shoot?
It is a worthwhile exercise if the twist and load are 'borderline'. Empirical results tell you what you need to know.

If it is not stabilised at short range it won't be stabilised at long range - how can a bullet pick up rpm at range wise guy?
 
Hah,(sarcastic!) counter productive to have a bullet that does not 'stabilise at short range', what worth the BC 'advantage' if it don't shoot?(agreed)
It is a worthwhile exercise if the twist and load are 'borderline'.(agreed)
Empirical results tell you what you need to know.
If it is not stabilised at short range it won't be stabilised at long range (agreed)- how can a bullet pick up rpm at range wise guy?(sarcastic again)

Read wot I wrote Sauer!! --- Who said anything about improving stability at long range or bullet rotation increasing during flight???? I certainly didn't! I mentioned "drop" & "windage" & meant to change cartridge loading to change velocity.
I also didn't mean to get a wrench on the barrel & twist it to give it a tighter twist or reform bullets to change their shape either!

Ian
 
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