Copper Bullets for Foxing

rookyshot

Well-Known Member
Hi Everyone

I only do a small amount of foxing and I'm in the process of converting over to Copper for stalking and I'm wondering If I could develop a single .243 round that would be effective for both. The @Yew Tree Fieldsports 80gr bullet appears to have a more fragile design than Barnes so this is where I'm think of starting.

I appreciate copper bullets are significantly more expensive than lead but my volumes are low so this would not be a factor and I do find it pretty appealing to just get more shooting in with a single rifle / bullet combo where I'm really confident with my drops etc.

Can anyone share any experiences, good or bad of using copper bullets for fox control or any considerations that I need to make for this little project.

Thanks all..
 
Similar to srvet above. I use 165gr RWS HIT in my .30-06 for deer and just about everything else. Foxes, hares, occasional rabbits etc. I've shot a couple of hundred foxes with them now and blow me, they all died of it.

There aren't really any speical considerations other than do you and your rifle like them?
 
Similar to srvet above. I use 165gr RWS HIT in my .30-06 for deer and just about everything else. Foxes, hares, occasional rabbits etc. I've shot a couple of hundred foxes with them now and blow me, they all died of it.

There aren't really any speical considerations other than do you and your rifle like them?
That’s the kind of real life feed back I was looking for @StephenToast and @srvet very much appreciated.
 
..in the process of converting over to Copper for stalking...

Is this conversion like joining the Freemasons or more like becoming a member of Scientology?

I suspect the later as it requires a strong faith in unproven statistics and fantastical stories presented as facts (like all religion!). Is a BASC membership required too?

Honestly, use whatever bullet you like on vermin. FMJ's were used in .222/.223 when there was a market for pelts but once that was gone the 'rapid expansion' hollow points became the choice for quick kills.

Why anyone would proactively want to use copper bullets on vermin when they are more expensive and have a worse ballistic coefficient when compared to cup and core lead bullets is beyond me.
 
Is this conversion like joining the Freemasons or more like becoming a member of Scientology?

I suspect the later as it requires a strong faith in unproven statistics and fantastical stories presented as facts (like all religion!). Is a BASC membership required too?

Honestly, use whatever bullet you like on vermin. FMJ's were used in .222/.223 when there was a market for pelts but once that was gone the 'rapid expansion' hollow points became the choice for quick kills.

Why anyone would proactively want to use copper bullets on vermin when they are more expensive and have a worse ballistic coefficient when compared to cup and core lead bullets is beyond me.
If your going to use copper for stalking, why go to the bother of loading a separate round for a small amount of foxing. I think the rifle world loves making things way more complicated than they need to be at times.
 
Hi Everyone

I only do a small amount of foxing and I'm in the process of converting over to Copper for stalking and I'm wondering If I could develop a single .243 round that would be effective for both. The @Yew Tree Fieldsports 80gr bullet appears to have a more fragile design than Barnes so this is where I'm think of starting.

I appreciate copper bullets are significantly more expensive than lead but my volumes are low so this would not be a factor and I do find it pretty appealing to just get more shooting in with a single rifle / bullet combo where I'm really confident with my drops etc.

Can anyone share any experiences, good or bad of using copper bullets for fox control or any considerations that I need to make for this little project.

Thanks all..
I thought the same one round is a lot simpler if it works. Richard at Yew Tree cooked up a load for my 243 with the 80gr. and V-N160, brilliant round. Ive shot 5 fox's out to about 160 yards so far with no concerns. Don't let it get over complicated just load it and shoot it.
 
I thought the same one round is a lot simpler if it works. Richard at Yew Tree cooked up a load for my 243 with the 80gr. and V-N160, brilliant round. Ive shot 5 fox's out to about 160 yards so far with no concerns. Don't let it get over complicated just load it and shoot it.
Exactly my point, I’m definitely going to give it a try and see how I get on. Thanks for the feedback on the Yew Tree bullets.
 
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Fox that interfaced with a 130 gn Fox out of 7x57. I have shot a few foxes with this bullet whilst out stalking. They have all come second and dead on the spot.

If I was shootout foxes specifically I would use a smaller calibre with a lighter bullet that would fragment a bit more.
 
I know it’s not .243 but this is Sako .308 162gn Blade ammunition on a fox at 70 yds the only movement after the shot was vertical and caused by gravity
 

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A .243 would carry enough muzzle energy to kill a fox if you loaded it with any bullet produced for use in that calibre, it matters not what bullet you use or what it’s made of,even the very worst available has oodles of umff and will kill with ease, a .22 hornet with a third of the power is plenty for foxes
 
More important than bullet, with bigger calibres you need to be very sure of your backstop. A bigger bullet will punch straight through a fox, remaining reasonably intact and can then go a long way.

By contrast, and going to the opposite extreme, a very frangible 17 won’t exit a fox, blowing up on the way in and you cpuld argue backstop is much less of an issue.
 
More important than bullet, with bigger calibres you need to be very sure of your backstop. A bigger bullet will punch straight through a fox, remaining reasonably intact and can then go a long way.

By contrast, and going to the opposite extreme, a very frangible 17 won’t exit a fox, blowing up on the way in and you cpuld argue backstop is much less of an issue.

You shouldn't rely on hitting your target to make your shot safe.

Bigger bullets don't need bigger backstops. All bullets need adequate backstop.
 
More important than bullet, with bigger calibres you need to be very sure of your backstop. A bigger bullet will punch straight through a fox, remaining reasonably intact and can then go a long way.

By contrast, and going to the opposite extreme, a very frangible 17 won’t exit a fox, blowing up on the way in and you cpuld argue backstop is much less of an issue.
Can’t say I agree with that at all. Back stop is a back stop!!!
What if you miss with said 17?? It’s carrying on a fair distance then
 
Hi Everyone

I only do a small amount of foxing and I'm in the process of converting over to Copper for stalking and I'm wondering If I could develop a single .243 round that would be effective for both. The @Yew Tree Fieldsports 80gr bullet appears to have a more fragile design than Barnes so this is where I'm think of starting.

I appreciate copper bullets are significantly more expensive than lead but my volumes are low so this would not be a factor and I do find it pretty appealing to just get more shooting in with a single rifle / bullet combo where I'm really confident with my drops etc.

Can anyone share any experiences, good or bad of using copper bullets for fox control or any considerations that I need to make for this little project.

Thanks all..
My bullets will work fine (I’ve shot loads of foxes with my 80.5 grainer) as will any other monometal bullet pretty much. Some of the harder 100% weight retention monometal bullets you may want to give the bullet as much chance as possible of stopping the animal stone dead by hitting which ever area of the most substance is available. Ie if presented with a broadside go through both shoulders to give the bullet the most matter to work with. If you hit behind that you’ll still kill the animal but it may not be instant. Apologies if that’s stating the obvious.
Cheers
Rich
 
My bullets will work fine (I’ve shot loads of foxes with my 80.5 grainer) as will any other monometal bullet pretty much. Some of the harder 100% weight retention monometal bullets you may want to give the bullet as much chance as possible of stopping the animal stone dead by hitting which ever area of the most substance is available. Ie if presented with a broadside go through both shoulders to give the bullet the most matter to work with. If you hit behind that you’ll still kill the animal but it may not be instant. Apologies if that’s stating the obvious.
Cheers
Rich
Thanks for the feedback back Rich I’ll give them a go..
 
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