Pard 007 POI change ?

[Longstrider]

I'm new to the world of NV having treated myself to a pard007 recently. Initial trials were very promising despite some difficulty getting things all focussed up when fitted to the Hawke Vantage 6-24 on my .204. I've shunned the use of the in-built illuminator for the time being and am using an IR torch.
First time out with it I fairly easily picked out, and successfully shot, a couple of bunnies at about 200yds, then last weekend disaster seemed to strike

The caller was out and Charlie appeared right on cue, skirted the field and settled to sit and assess the wierdness from a position about 200yds from me. I settled the crosshairs on the upper chest/lower throat area and squeezed ... Very dead fox. The next one stood looking at me from about 160yds out. Bang = dead fox. Then the evenings light died and I put the Pard onto the rifle. An hour later a fox tracked the first one I shot and stood there sniffing the spot where #1 had fallen. Follow the drill and squeeze .... only to miss by God knows how much and off went Charlie at Warp 6. (Accompanied by a whining ricochet .. who says it can't happen with a .204 ? ! )
Then it happened again about 20 minutes later .. a complete 'sitter' at about 150yds. Settle in on the sticks and squeeze. Bang goes the rifle and off runs Charlie

I ended my evening right then and there. Not being 100% certain that shots are going where I want them to is a sign to go home.

Now ... I'm yet to have a chance to get out with my trusty cardboard box and check zero with and without the Pard.
I'm not known for missing foxes anywhere I'm willing to squeeze the trigger on them so I've been wondering if anyone else has experienced and POI change with the Pard 007 ?
I know I'm effectively using my original scope reticule etc etc but I'm bu$$ered if I can see a good reason for those 2 misses and it's bugging the whotsits out of me.

 

[FISH BOY]

Pard 007 is surely just a picture of the reticule and vision from your scope, so would potentially guess at it being the change in your mount due to the extension of the rear add on pard.

I use a cheap Jack Pyke stock extender to try and help get a better eye relief and mount when using mine.

 

[Longstrider]

You clever, clever, Fish Boy ! I've got one of those extension things knocking about somewhere. I'll give it a go !

 

[Dillon]

Every time you add the 007 to your scope you need to calibrate it to your ret it using the X and Y axis, takes about 30 seconds.

 

[stalkerboydy]

Every time you add the 007 to your scope you need to calibrate it to your ret it using the X and Y axis, takes about 30 seconds.

Not on mine you don't. Set it up on my .222 with hawks sidewinder tried on my .17 hmr with MTC scope and my 6.5x55 with meopta which has no side or front end parallex adjustment all shot to their poi . I dread to think how many times the pard has been off an on between those scope/rifles over the years without any loosing zero

 

[Dillon]

I check mine every time and every time it's out, the same thing has happened to a friend, anyway I'm glad yours is OK.

 

[JMikeyH]

The POI on my rimfire changes with the Pard on by roughly 2 inches higher at 100m. I took from that, that the weight of the pard hanging off the back of the scope was causing a slight angle upward within the rings

 

[Herb64]

Another vote for not had a problem. Just mount the unit and get on with shooting and no POI change.

 

[Henns]

Mines been spot on, swapping between airgun and 243 haven't had any zero issues, just a quick focus with the wheel to get the crosshairs sharp in screen and it's good to go.

 

[The Singing Stalker]

Point of impact should not change. The weight of the pard is nothing in comparison to an Archer which I used for about 5 years. I am now using a pard on my air rifle and it is on and off weekly without issue.
i would first check by adding an extension on the back so your eye relief is the same as already stated. I would then check the bayonet is mounted securely on the scope. So there is no possibility of the pard moving when it is connected.
oh, and double check your mounts are tight, unlikely I know but does no harm.

In my experience, and I have been using NV for 10 years now. It was mostly the fault of the operator with Addons, oh I could tell you some stories…… But then there are others who seem to have experienced otherwise.

 

[Clive Ward]

Don't use the image shifting function on the Pard to get the reticule centred. This can cause a parallax error that will change POI if the reticule and target are not in perfect focus.

Set the Pard to be electronically centred, and then make sure it stays mechanically centred as you fit and tighten the bayonet on the scope. Then you can't get the parallax error, even if reticule or target are out of focus.


Cheers





Clive

 

[David.evans]

As above

 

[DVS1]

Every time you add the 007 to your scope you need to calibrate it to your ret it using the X and Y axis, takes about 30 seconds.

No you don't...I never have and always spot on, it retains the coordination, at least it should

 

[purdey24]

Never had any bother with my one Ian, just click it on and away you go but I would say that is quite a good idea that Fishboy has with the stock extender, would not do any harm at all.
By the way, thanks again for the polishing and sharpening job you did on the Puma Bowie, totally brilliant, highly recommended.

 

[Dillon]

Well it looks like I'm the unlucky one then, still it's no bother to sort it out.

 

[Dari]

I have original 007 for more than two years.
Using it on 5 different scopes. Three of them are fixed parallax and I never experienced POI change.
It did happened that I miss occasionally, but after I check the video, it was always my mistake.

Cheers

 

[old keeper]

Like others have said, never had a problem swapping between rifles and calibres. Certainly, weight shouldn't be a problem

 

[Jelen]

Don't use the image shifting function on the Pard to get the reticule centred. This can cause a parallax error that will change POI if the reticule and target are not in perfect focus.

Set the Pard to be electronically centred, and then make sure it stays mechanically centred as you fit and tighten the bayonet on the scope. Then you can't get the parallax error, even if reticule or target are out of focus.


Cheers





Clive

Every time you add the 007 to your scope you need to calibrate it to your ret it using the X and Y axis, takes about 30 seconds.

X and Y axis.
Image shifting function?
Confused.com, are we talking about a Pard 007 here?

 

[Eric the Red]

X and Y axis.
Image shifting function?
Confused.com, are we talking about a Pard 007 here?

Yes - the 007 does have a reticle in it. Some people erroneously believe that this also needs to be zerod - as Clive has said, this actually introduces errors.

The biggest mistake I see is the Pard not being mounted square to the ocular lens of the scope. There are many ways to skin a cat - but my take on this is to wind the scope diopter adjustment right in and ensure the add-on is sat snugly and squarely against the eyepiece, which I tend to do with the rifle vertical as gravity makes this plain. You get the benefit of more grip on the scope body itself, the benefit of the marginal change in eye relief (noting the stock extension requirements in addition as above) - and you can still use the diopter adjustment on the Pard to get a clear picture.

The second biggest mistake is not having a sharp image of the reticle. The reticle should be the only thing the add-on is focused on. All other focus on sight picture should be facilitated by the parallax adjustment

 

[3.5mag]

I had problems with mine, ok at airgun ranges but gave me unexplained misses on the hmr & centrefire.
I tried at the range with my HMR swapping between my Pard & my mates Pard....
Mine despite being mechanically centred shot off zero, my mates' despite being off centre shot true to aim.