Do you know what a 'half-shaft" is?

Rear half shafts have soft drive flanges and I was told these were designed to fail before the diff does. Anyway rear drive flange and half shafts are very simple to change and take about ten minutes each side! Done it many times. Front half shafts are a bit more of a Pain….
So they know the diff is going to fail 🤦.
So why didn't they make the gearbox snap off before the crank breaks!
Backwards engineering this is.

Are there any other vehicle manufacturers that leave their customers in the poop to save an inferior part they have fitted.....I'm confused.... again 😵‍💫
 
I had to drop £700 on parts in January which hurt. Both front corners rebuilt with new swivel balls, CVs, stub axles, drive flanges and every bearing and seal. Rear got fresh wheel bearings to. I had a rumbling rear wheel bearing and a clicking front CV joint. Turns out a garage who did the maintenance on this for the previous owners fitted a sh*tpart wheel bearing and literally nipped up the hub nuts and staked it over instead of tightening them up to 210nm 🙄. My other hate is when they don't replace the 12 point bolts when they change a part. They're literally a couple of quid for a set and it saves alot of pain and suffering.

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Bloody landrovers.
Do yourself a favour our friend, get it fixed and sell it. If you had been halfway to Scotland I can assure you you'd be setting it on fire!
Oh god no! Just think of the catastrophic impact on SD members’ morale if they were no more posts from S1962! Never! Never!
That said I ‘spose there would still be the odd one about reloading, SD Draw, etc…..
🦊🦊
 
Even on the old series landrovers these failed regularly. Beauty of the old Landrovers in Zambia was that by the early 1990’s there were plenty of old wrecks in villages and in the bush. If you broke down in the bush - and in those days roads were in many cases not much more than tracks, you could generally make a repair somehow. I once had to get out of the lower Zambezi with a tire stuffed full of dried grass after our final tube had got beyond repair. Another friend - now a PH - sprung a leak in the radiator of his landcruiser and lost all water. He did put a branch through it. A good 200 plus km from any form of support. Parked the landcruiser - one of the old 40 series - on an anthill. Took out the radiator. Tire leaver and a hot mopani log fire. And sacrificed the lead in the battery. He resoldered the radiator there and then using the leaver as a soldering iron. Put it all together. Bumped started it down the anthill and drove home with no battery or electrics - the old trucks didn’t really need electrics to run.

I suspect that truck still running 30 years later.
 
Oh dear. About eighteen months back when I was doing agency work for Neovia Logistics who hold all JLR spares for the UK I worked in Inspection Department that dealt with all returned orend of life inventory. I maybe, on one one day scrapped maybe forty of these, brand new, straight out of their warehouse racks and into a skip. In fact IMHO you were lucky to source one now. JLR keep spares for twelve years after a vehicle was last produced. Then, pretty much, any inventory is binned. So there will some poor Eastern European or desperate student up in Desford, Leicestershire going around with a pick note to get your halfshafts now.
 
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So they know the diff is going to fail 🤦.
So why didn't they make the gearbox snap off before the crank breaks!
Backwards engineering this is.

Are there any other vehicle manufacturers that leave their customers in the poop to save an inferior part they have fitted.....I'm confused.... again 😵‍💫
Haha yes. So a friend upgraded his half shafts and his diff went then upgraded his diff and his driveshaft went then upgraded his driveshafts and his gearbox went!! I mean he was doing off-road stuff but still made me stick to spec driveshafts lol 😝
 
I feel your pain, but when you run a 20year old Defender you can expect things to go wrong on a regular basis and if you’re not handy with the spanner’s yourself, you’ll end up having to pay someone that is.
That model was notoriously idiosyncratic from the off, they’ve always needed a hobbyist owner.
You can also count on every single job taking two to three times longer than you thought because the bit you need to remove will be rust welded into position.
This costs a LOT of money when you pay someone else to do it.
Ask me how I know.
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Land Rover designers are also highly skilled at positioning bolt heads where you can touch them, but can neither see them or get a spanner in, or a socket on. This leads to high levels of frustration and Adrenalin production often expressed as bad, often very very bad, language and sometimes things that shouldn’t be get thrown.
It does nothing to restore your equanimity when you realise that the metal fastener you chewed up with a vice grips and threw into the hedge after a 40 minute struggle to remove it, is essential to putting the footing thing back together.
Either your Landy needs a new owner, you need to develop some mechanical skills or you need a a new income stream, a substantial one.
There is a bright light on the horizon, Defenders are highly sought after ( this leads me to believe that the population of closet masochists in the UK is actually far higher than the census would suggest ), so sell it and buy a Disco 4.
Leather seats, heaters that work, reliable, at least compared with what you‘ve got and eye-wateringly expensive to maintain, but no one expects you to do it yourself.
Or start frequenting the middle lanes in Aldi and Lidl, socket sets, welding masks, hammers, chisels, air compressors etc etc.
It takes about a year to collect them all.
Which gives you time to learn how to use them, basic skills, like righty tighty, lefty loosey, that kind of thing.
A decent socket drive often has some helpful arrows engraved to show which is which.
 
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I feel your pain, but when you run a 20year old Defender you can expect things to go wrong on a regular basis and if you’re not handy with the spanner’s yourself, you’ll end up having to pay someone that is.
That model was notoriously idiosyncratic from the off, they’ve always needed a hobbyist owner.
You can also count on every single job taking two to three times longer than you thought because the bit you need to remove will be rust welded into position.
This costs a LOT of money when you pay someone else to do it.
Ask me how I know.
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Land Rover designers are also highly skilled at positioning bolt heads where you can touch them, but can neither see them or get a spanner in, or a socket on. This leads to high levels of frustration and Adrenalin production often expressed as bad, often very very bad, language and sometimes things that shouldn’t be get thrown.
It does nothing to restore your equanimity when you realise that the metal fastener you chewed up with a vice grips and threw into the hedge after a 40 minute struggle to remove it, is essential to putting the footing thing back together.
Either your Landy needs a new owner, you need to develop some mechanical skills or you need a a new income stream, a substantial one.
There is a bright light on the horizon, Defenders are highly sought after ( this leads me to believe that the population of closet masochists in the UK is actually far higher than the census would suggest ), so sell it and buy a Disco 4.
Leather seats, heaters that work, reliable, at least compared with what you‘ve got and eye-wateringly expensive to maintain, but no one expects you to do it yourself.
Or start frequenting the middle lanes in Aldi and Lidl, socket sets, welding masks, hammers, chisels, air compressors etc etc.
It takes about a year to collect them all.
Which gives you time to learn how to use them, basic skills, like righty tighty, lefty loosey, that kind of thing.
A decent socket drive often has some helpful arrows engraved to show which is which.
You know I was right there with you on the “change of owner” recommendation.
🦊🦊
 
One thing worth noting is the separate drive shaft and drive flange set up is stronger than the one piece item. Yes you get spline fretting if you don't pop the end caps off and push some grease in when you grease the props but because they're separate they can heat treat the whole shaft. Oh and putting HD drive flanges on a worn out half shaft/cv won't cure the play issue lol. You have to change the lot.
 
... you get spline fretting if you don't pop the end caps off and push some grease in...
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When I got up this morning, I had no clue that I would be learning a whole new language.


Spline fretting
Splined couplings are widely used in many industrial fields and one of the most problematic failure mode of these components is fretting wear. Fretting wear appears because of the relative motions between teeth and it is mainly due to angular misalignments.🤓

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Just need to get this downloaded onto my phone now...🤔


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Spline & stress?
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