Expander Mandrel / Neck Lube Options

Jamie020

Well-Known Member
I’m looking to improve the consistency of my reloading process and wondering what others are using to lube the inside of case necks prior to using expander mandrels.

I’ve tried:
1) Dipping case necks into Redding’s imperial dry graphite with media
2) Cotton bud and a small amount of Redding’s imperial sizing wax
3) Hornady one shot

I’ve found option 2 the smoothest when expanding on the press but my concern is that it’s difficult to ensure each case neck is consistently lubed the same, as I’m seating after expanding without removing the lube.

Option 1 seems to better lube the outside of case necks and I’ve had some galling issues (brass adhering to the expander) using this method.

Let me know what works well for you? 👍
 
I’m looking to improve the consistency of my reloading process and wondering what others are using to lube the inside of case necks prior to using expander mandrels.

I’ve tried:
1) Dipping case necks into Redding’s imperial dry graphite with media
2) Cotton bud and a small amount of Redding’s imperial sizing wax
3) Hornady one shot

I’ve found option 2 the smoothest when expanding on the press but my concern is that it’s difficult to ensure each case neck is consistently lubed the same, as I’m seating after expanding without removing the lube.

Option 1 seems to better lube the outside of case necks and I’ve had some galling issues (brass adhering to the expander) using this method.

Let me know what works well for you? 👍
RCBS lube. I briefly ultrasonic clean afterwards.
Regards
JCS
 
I bought a few hundred grams of powdered graphite for like a quid or two and then made 2 x pots using the contents of a couple of No 6 and 7 shotgun shells for smaller and larger case necks. Toss in the shot, chuck some graphite in and give it a shake and then dip and size your necks. I wouldn't worry so much about consistency of lube on the inside of the necks. Bit like sizing cases with a FL die. The lube comes off inside the FL die and the same happens with the expander mandrel dies. The mandrels get coated in graphite which assists each case.

I personally don't bother even cleaning the necks after opening the necks back up to desired tension. I used to when I started but just didn't see any difference in performance for my application (which is generally shooting small pests at distance)

I doubt I will ever buy more graphite. I think I have only topped the pots up a couple of times in god knows how long and that was only because I could rather than noticing a drastic drop in available lube. Nice and cheap.
 
I bought a few hundred grams of powdered graphite for like a quid or two and then made 2 x pots using the contents of a couple of No 6 and 7 shotgun shells for smaller and larger case necks. Toss in the shot, chuck some graphite in and give it a shake and then dip and size your necks. I wouldn't worry so much about consistency of lube on the inside of the necks. Bit like sizing cases with a FL die. The lube comes off inside the FL die and the same happens with the expander mandrel dies. The mandrels get coated in graphite which assists each case.

I personally don't bother even cleaning the necks after opening the necks back up to desired tension. I used to when I started but just didn't see any difference in performance for my application (which is generally shooting small pests at distance)

I doubt I will ever buy more graphite. I think I have only topped the pots up a couple of times in god knows how long and that was only because I could rather than noticing a drastic drop in available lube. Nice and cheap.
Thanks for this, I’ve got some shot so I’ll try it and see if that offers an improvement over the Redding media with graphite
 
I use option 1. Mostly stainless steel mandrels although I have a 17 cal ti nitride example. As Cottis mentioned, use enough and it gets smoother as the mandrel gets a coating of graphite.
 
I've used Hornady One Shot for over 20yrs as per the instructions on the tin and never had any case lube issues, dies sticking, or powder contamination. Works for me 👍
 
Option 1 seems to better lube the outside of case necks and I’ve had some galling issues (brass adhering to the expander) using this method.
Maybe you are using too much graphite?

Dip the neck into the media and give it a short twist.
Knock off on rim of the pot.
Knock off remaining excess on a sheet of paper on the table. Give it a good tap mouth down.
Wipe outside of the neck.

A very, very small amount does the trick and you don't want to create a mess in your die and in and around the press.
In order to reduce the amount of work the expander has to do I use a bushing die. My expanders only just kiss the necks.
 
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Maybe you are using too much graphite?

Dip the neck into the media and give it a short twist.
Knock off on rim of the pot.
Knock off remaining excess on a sheet of paper on the table. Give it a good tap mouth down.
Wipe outside of the neck.

A very, very small amount does the trick and you don't want to create a mess in your die and in and around the press.
In order to reduce the amount of work the expander has to do I use a bushing die. My expanders only just kiss the necks.
I can’t imagine it’s too much, otherwise I’d have avoided galling on the mandrel which I’ve had to polish and clean up.

I’ve found when I’m dipping necks in graphite it adheres more to the outside of the neck and shoulder rather than the inside, and have to be quite persistent with it to get enough graphite on the inside. Perhaps I’ll top the media up with a bit more graphite and see if that helps.

I’m currently using a FL Forster sizing die without the expander ball and had been considering a Redding FL bushing die to reduce the work on the neck and expander. For 308 my Forster die reduces the neck (internal diameter) of a fired case from .315 to .300. I’m then opening up to .306 before seating. How does this 6thou compare to your bushing method?
 
I dip my necks in the graphite powder and tap them with a pen/pencil to ensure any clods are out then expand as normal, wipe outside of neck and continue to load.
 
The graphite seems to be a popular option. Which makes me think it’s something I’m doing to not have a good experience with it.

For those that are using it with no issues, what calibers are you loading for and what’s the expander expanding your case necks by after sizing?

Is opening up the neck by 6thou on a 308 case causing more than ideal friction perhaps. Might be better off with a bushing FL die and reducing the work required of the expander?
 
I can’t imagine it’s too much, otherwise I’d have avoided galling on the mandrel which I’ve had to polish and clean up.

I’ve found when I’m dipping necks in graphite it adheres more to the outside of the neck and shoulder rather than the inside, and have to be quite persistent with it to get enough graphite on the inside. Perhaps I’ll top the media up with a bit more graphite and see if that helps.

I’m currently using a FL Forster sizing die without the expander ball and had been considering a Redding FL bushing die to reduce the work on the neck and expander. For 308 my Forster die reduces the neck (internal diameter) of a fired case from .315 to .300. I’m then opening up to .306 before seating. How does this 6thou compare to your bushing method?
I see. You're already using a mandrel. I can imagine that this can stall if it isn't 100% in line with the neck axis. But I suppose this is part of the game. After all, the mandrels are supposed to eliminate runout. This would even be proof of the usefulness of mandrels. But I'm not buying into it. I consider it to be one of the usual hypes for regular reloading. If I wanted to neck up from a smaller calibre, that's a different story. This is were they are really useful.

I don't have the tool to measure the inside diameter of my cases. I use a .335 bushing on Lapua cases (not neck turned). Other cases may require another bushing. The standard RCBS expander I use in my Redding F/L and neck dies (both with bushings, Typ S) has a diameter of .3075. If I do not use graphite I will feel a little drag on pulling out the expander. With graphite I can barely feel it coming out.
Just guessing, but I suppose I'm only working my necks 1-2 thou on expansion.
 
Just out of curiosity are you removing any external lube from resizing before using the mandrel? Just wonder if perhaps using hornady one shot spray and its remaining on the inside of the neck and affecting the graphite...perhaps clumping (technical term there) and reducing it's effectiveness??

Erik Cortina doesn't clean the inside of his necks and allows the carbon from firing to be the lube for mandrel/bullet seating etc.

I give my neck a quick brush with a .243 nylon brush (I reload for .223) to remove any crud before dipping in the graphite.
 
Just out of curiosity are you removing any external lube from resizing before using the mandrel? Just wonder if perhaps using hornady one shot spray and its remaining on the inside of the neck and affecting the graphite...perhaps clumping (technical term there) and reducing it's effectiveness??

Erik Cortina doesn't clean the inside of his necks and allows the carbon from firing to be the lube for mandrel/bullet seating etc.

I give my neck a quick brush with a .243 nylon brush (I reload for .223) to remove any crud before dipping in the graphite.
I haven’t ever mixed one shot and graphite, doesn’t seem a good idea.

I’m assuming Erik doesn’t wet tumble his cases then? Does he dry tumble?
 
OK bud, didn't know if you had external lube that could be getting inside the necks and mixing with graphite etc.

To be honest I'm not sure what Erik does regarding case cleaning, I can imagine it's out there on YouTube somewhere. I don't wet/dry tumble as I don't shoot that many rounds to worry about, case holder in drill and fine wire wool for me 👍🏻
 
The graphite seems to be a popular option. Which makes me think it’s something I’m doing to not have a good experience with it.

For those that are using it with no issues, what calibers are you loading for and what’s the expander expanding your case necks by after sizing?

Is opening up the neck by 6thou on a 308 case causing more than ideal friction perhaps. Might be better off with a bushing FL die and reducing the work required of the expander?
I basically use standard FL dies (forster and redding) with the expander balls removed as they are horrible and I dislike the graunchy feeling when pulling them back through. It just strikes me as needing too much pressure which i cannot see being good for pushing and pulling the necks about. I don't use any bushings. Just FL dies to bump the shoulder back 2 thou without the expander ball and then use an expander die and relevant mandrel to size them back up to desired size and neck tension.

The process of forcing that mandrel in and less so, out, of the case neck is much less severe force wise which I can feel as I operate the press, than if I was using the expander balls supplied with the FL dies.

My process is - I decap all cases first with universal decapper, then I anneal, then FL size without expander ball and without cleaning the cases but I make sure they are free from obvious debris or dirt. I then clean them in the ultrasonic cleaner to clean the internals and the primer pockets and to remove resizing lube (I use that cheapo Lee stuff) and then I use the expander mandrel to size necks up before chamfer/deburr and then on to priming, charging and seating bullets.

The process for lubing the inside of case necks prior to using the expander mandrel die, is to dip maybe 3-4 times in the graphite covered shot and then on to the press. I run the mandrel through each twice to ensure some sort of uniformity but I am generally annealing every firing, so using the mandrel and seating bullets has a very very consistent feel to it. That might help you as you effectively have softer brass to work with and it also provides longer life for your cases (apologies if you do anneal, I didn't read back through the thread entirely)

I recently helped a mate load up a crapton of 7mmRM cartridges. His reloading process is somewhat primitive, so I annealed all the cases for him and then got him to feel how the seating and mandrels felt in effectively virgin brass. He was amazed how soft it felt. You also get much more consistent measurements COAL seating wise, as the material has the same amount of give or friction as the next case. Unannealed brass which has been fired a coupla three time or more will display a lack of consistency in this regard. You can feel it on the press.

I don't measure my neck internals to see how much work the mandrel is doing. I am loading for .222rem, .243win, 6.5CM and 7mmRM. I work on the basis that if something works, it aint stupid. I did ponder if you had a FL die that was oversizing the necks down but you say there is a 6 thou sizing difference between sized down necks and then opening them back up. That does not sound excessive to me at all. I am going to measure a sized down neck in a mo on a piece of brass and will report.

So in a nutshell, I don't know. Sounds to me like you are doing it right. If you are not annealing and are working with heavily work hardened brass, that might explain it?

Right, here are some pics to show you my tiny lube pot. I very rarely top this up with graphite. A tiny amount goes a long way. You can also see the discolouration of the mandrels. The tin or titanium one (don't ask, I had to sell a kidney to buy that one as the standard version was out of stock) seems to hold less graphite but it still works the same. That discolouration is graphite and it builds up and assists the next case that goes through the die. I still dip every single case. The other picture shows you my clean finger tip and then what it looks like if I very very lightly press it againt the graphite covered shot. I have never cleaned or done anything to those mandrels. They are just stored in a dry, clean place.

On to the measurements. Just measured the internal diameter of a 7mmRM case that has been sized down using a FL die without expander but is yet to be sized back up with a mandrel. It is 0.272" and the mandrel would be 0.283" so that is being worked by 10 thou or so which is more than your 6 thou. I don't think either of those are out of kilter per se.

Best of luck

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