Pard DS 35/70 lrf gen2 videos 1, 2, 3. question's for Ian Blackwood

Warbucks

Well-Known Member
Ian, after watching the above videos could you answer some questions please.
(1) Are you taking these's shots from a vehicle, if so how are you getting the stability for the shot (window rig ect)
(2) Are you taking these's shots on foot from some form of shooting sticks ?
(3) Do you find that using the Pards lrf from your stable shooting position gives more accurate readings than using a hand held lrf ?
(4) Picking up the shot rabbits, are you shooing a certain number then picking up on foot and how are you then carrying them back to the vehicle (bag shopping trolly ?)

Ive been experimenting with my .22lr with a view to using it again on volume rabbits, the problems that i have with it is.

After a period of not being used it takes a few rounds to settle down.
From a sand bag rested position its doing just over 1" at 90 yds, so i'm not going to get this in field conditions.
When using my thermal lrf at 80-ish yds rabbits it can be hard to get an accurate reading.

Anyone else feel free to comment.

Dave (warbucks)
 
Hi Dave

I use quad sticks all the time on foot as they provide stability, nothing fancy is required, B&Q ones are great. I always use a thermal spotter with LRF as it gives me the benefit of not having to raise my gun to see if the animal is at a shootable range, I then mount the gun to the quad sticks to take the shot and activate the LRF / ballistic calculator, I can then also move and rescan on the DS35 LRF if required quickly. If you want the ultimate accuracy with a thermal LRF you need to confirm actual splash position with night vision, as an example an accolade I have the splash is at the bottom of the box at my normal shooting ranges, if you where to place within the box on a small target like a rabbit you could be 10-20 yards out, which makes a difference with airgun and rimfire at longer ranges.

I've be honest if I can pickup the rabbits I will, but we are talking hundreds on foot a night, so when in vehicle on stubble its easy work, or driving in defender, stop and pickup, small area on foot, its a case of 8-10 in a bag and back and forward which is a chore, some places the land is just too hilly and dense, and its just eradication so they get shot and left for the raptors and corvids as the numbers and amount shot would take hours to pickup on foot.

I love the rimfire but I barely use it now. I basically use an airgun with slugs, unlike the rimfire, it can be adjusted in speed for accuracy, I can go for 10ft lb to 100ft lb, I have a much larger magazine capacity 25-28 shots per mag, I don't have any spent shells lying around, ammunition is much cheaper than rimfire rounds at least 1/2 the price, there is no limit on amount stored, can be converted to compact for vehicle or longer barrel for on foot for increased shot capacity.

I used to carry a fibreglass bottle in a rucksack for refills, 100-200 shots but I changed the regulator to a Huma now, which allows me to go below the reg pressure without the full plenum being dumped of air when removing the buddy bottle, I can then carry a super lightweight bottle to hot swap out in the field, I carry the bottle in a Helion carry case and it fits perfect, this gives me around 120 shots give or take before I have to head back and refill.

On my gun I use an electronic level, that allows me to have zero cant when shooting as even 1 degree with airgun or rimfire can throw the shot out by 1" or more, that's not taking into account for wind, yourself, etc , the beauty of the DS35 is, it has the cant indicator built in with 1 degree increments so I don't need it for the DS35 at all.

If I'm shooting with thermal the Thermion LRF models now all have the ballistic calc, which makes things very easy, in fact they also compensate for shooting up and incline/decline which is awesome, the Thermion XQ50 PRO LRF is mega for the money it costs, just lethal... BUT i use the XG50 which gives me longer legs to ID further.

My airgun can shoot 1/2"- 3/4" at `100yds when stable off a bipod. I use .25 calibre as it just flattens stuff even with chest shots at distance, I use H&N slugs also.

I've got a pile more footage here too upload, daytime too, just time permitting in fact I've got hours of footage of all the products, its just sitting down and having time to upload ..
 
Also with the rimfire I first started on winchester subs 25 year ago they were great in the blue packs, then accuracy drifted and i moved to Eley 40 gr, after a while they changed to 38gr and again accuracy drifted in my CZ452 that I still own ! So I moved to CCI and they were great, then after awhile I had batches that went supersonic with loud cracks intermittently , so now with the rimfire I'm back on Eley and there ok ... but like I say 90% of the time I'm with the airgun, infact foxes are no problem either, deadly silent and lights out, they do take awhile to get used too and a some trial and error but once you get them right, they are excellent. Carry a chrono with you as they can drop out of a speed node normally within a 30fps window when temperature changes in winter, so I tend to check prior to heading out with a shot into the ground through the chrono and if speed needs tweaking I just turn the power wheel a notch and recheck...
 
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Setting it up last night looks fantastic hope to get out next week with it on the LR variation in for a new FX maverick sniper FAC.
could you please suggest the best batteries to fit this unit some of mine are a bit long ( protected I think)
Regards C
 
Ian, does the Pard Ds35/70 give a more detailed image at 5.6 and 11.2 mag than the Pulsar C50 at the some magnifications ?.

I did buy a Pulsar C50 for sub 200 yd foxing, then my Drone Pro 10x for the longer range foxes, the C50 has been ok for this and having the wide field of view allows you go find the foxes quicker, i first pick up the fox on the 3.5 base mag, then 2 presses of the mag button to shoot the fox on 7 mag ----as i say works well, i find that 14 mag pixelates too much, this got me thinking that maybe it might have been better to have a bit more base mag than 3.5 to give a better picture when you mag up --------i suppose this is what the Pard 35/50 and 35/70 do, hence the above question.

Dave (warbucks)
 
Setting it up last night looks fantastic hope to get out next week with it on the LR variation in for a new FX maverick sniper FAC.
could you please suggest the best batteries to fit this unit some of mine are a bit long ( protected I think)
Regards C
 
Ian, does the Pard Ds35/70 give a more detailed image at 5.6 and 11.2 mag than the Pulsar C50 at the some magnifications ?.

I did buy a Pulsar C50 for sub 200 yd foxing, then my Drone Pro 10x for the longer range foxes, the C50 has been ok for this and having the wide field of view allows you go find the foxes quicker, i first pick up the fox on the 3.5 base mag, then 2 presses of the mag button to shoot the fox on 7 mag ----as i say works well, i find that 14 mag pixelates too much, this got me thinking that maybe it might have been better to have a bit more base mag than 3.5 to give a better picture when you mag up --------i suppose this is what the Pard 35/50 and 35/70 do, hence the above question.

Dave (warbucks)
It has more base magnification so you will get a bigger/better image at longer range than the others if the right amount of IR is used downrange.
 
What are people thoughts for using on a centrefire for fixing? They don't get the reviews like hik and pulsar.
Been using one for foxing getting on for a year now, can’t fault it at all, that said I just spot with the thermal & shoot with the rifle, I'm not into recording & all the gizmos, most of the shots are under 200yds due to the ground I’m on, mostly marsh & orchards. Cracking scope for the money so much so I’m thinking of buying another one to swap between the 22LR & .17HMR.

Ade
 
Been using one for foxing getting on for a year now, can’t fault it at all, that said I just spot with the thermal & shoot with the rifle, I'm not into recording & all the gizmos, most of the shots are under 200yds due to the ground I’m on, mostly marsh & orchards. Cracking scope for the money so much so I’m thinking of buying another one to swap between the 22LR & .17HMR.

Ade
Cheers ade. Going to take a better look at these
 
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