Lightweight rifle accuracy

Scuffy

Well-Known Member
I have just purchased a very lightweight rifle, in .308

The new rifle is a custom with 22 inch Proof barrel, titanium action and carbon fibre stock. Moderator is a Atec H2.

I am not recoil sensitive, and find the .308 a pleasure to shoot.

My issue with the new rifle is accuracy. I’m 120 rounds into load development using 2 different bullet weights and 3 different powders. I’m not getting anything better than 2 MOA. Shooting strings of 3 leaving 10 mins between strings. For reference my other heavier rifles are all sub .5 MOA after load development, but they were showing promise within 50 rounds. I have also tried some factory ammo. Am shooting prone and have tried bipod and front bag both with rear bag.

Have checked all the usuals, stock screw torque, picatinny screw torque, scope ring torque etc. The scope is brand new. I’ve lined up on target and dry fired with no flinch.

My thoughts are that the problem is with me, my technique/hold/support not the kit.

Any suggestions gratefully received
 
Light weight rifles need the shooter to be able to apply the marksmanship principles 100%

This is especially true when if the user is swapping from a medium or heavier weight rifle where the increased weight will allow you to get away with a less than optimal technique.

Get a friend to film you so you can critique your own performance.
Have a look at Nathan Fosters website for tips on proper handling techniques.

Kind regards,
Bob.
 
Could be the rifle if it’s not well bedded or just not a ‘shooter’. What’s the rifle?

Also, with lightweight rifles, hold that forend firmly to avoid muzzle jump! Shooting off a sandbag or bipod without holding onto the forend will send rounds everywhere
 
Light weight rifles need the shooter to be able to apply the marksmanship principles 100%

This is especially true when if the user is swapping from a medium or heavier weight rifle where the increased weight will allow you to get away with a less than optimal technique.

Get a friend to film you so you can critique your own performance.
Have a look at Nathan Fosters website for tips on proper handling techniques.

Kind regards,
Bob.
All very true.
 
Could be the rifle if it’s not well bedded or just not a ‘shooter’. What’s the rifle?

Also, with lightweight rifles, hold that forend firmly to avoid muzzle jump! Shooting off a sandbag or bipod without holding onto the forend will send rounds everywhere
Totally agree about forend control. I can shoot my .222 using the comfortable but questionable rear bag hold. The rifle has so little recoil and shoots backwards so sweetly that it just struggles to shoot anything other than little groups.

On the 6mm and 6.5mm rifles, it is a different story and the .308 is going to kick more than those probably, especially if it is light. On a good day, I can shoot these rifles no issues with the "sniper" hold but everything has to be just so with consistent bipod loading, cheek weld etc. If I just use a bipod and pay no attention to anything other than forend control, keeping the crosshairs centred and gently squeezing the trigger, the rounds go where they should all the time.

Stay prone, use a bipod but ensure a solid hold (not horribly tight but certainly very firm) on the forend to stop it jumping up or sideways as the trigger is released. Your groups will probably shrink.
 
Get somebody else to try it. Rules the human error out of the equation. Sorry.

Failing that take it all apart and put it back together. Most modern rifle issues are scope rings, loose stocks or not free floating etc. Rings and rails being the usual culprits. Again sorry no offence but I see allot of “poor grouping rifles” and allot of them haven’t been built properly.
 
There was a write up from Ed at PSE who said that he put a few hundred rounds through his Proof barrel before it really started to sing, so it could be a combination of all of the above.
 
Get somebody else to try it. Rules the human error out of the equation. Sorry.

Failing that take it all apart and put it back together. Most modern rifle issues are scope rings, loose stocks or not free floating etc. Rings and rails being the usual culprits. Again sorry no offence but I see allot of “poor grouping rifles” and allot of them haven’t been built properly.
All checked

I can assure you that it has been built to the highest standard by a very well regarded rifle builder.

Getting somebody else to shoot is a great idea.
 
Can’t say that lightweight rofles I’ve built have been any less accurate than others

Proof barrels tend to shoot from the off in my experience (though not used any since the importation was changed from Riflekraft)


I can think of a half dozen T3 Built using Sassen / Phoenix stainless stabdard hunter profiles and either PSE e lite or Macmillan Sako hunter style stocks that deliver singke hole accuracy from end user reports (308)

It may be pertinent to have someone else shoot the weapon and check all fixings before doing so
 
Light weight rifles need the shooter to be able to apply the marksmanship principles 100%

This is especially true when if the user is swapping from a medium or heavier weight rifle where the increased weight will allow you to get away with a less than optimal technique.

Get a friend to film you so you can critique your own performance.
Have a look at Nathan Fosters website for tips on proper handling techniques.

Kind regards,
Bob.
The only sensible answer so far.
All the others are just conjecture without examining it.
 
Getting somebody else to shoot is a great idea.
If you're shooting heavier rifles 0.5 MOA, I'm not so sure. If you do get somebody else to shoot it, make sure they're proficient.

Suggestion about holding the forend while shooting is very good. Just make extra sure you build the position properly for each shot, since rear bag does usually not stay the same between shots.

You might also try to variate the muzzle velocity to great extent, using faster powder etc. This might not be what you need eventually, but lighter bullet and slower velocity might make the rifle a lot easier to shoot, and going through large velocity window might prove beneficial if the barrel is picky.

Also just two different bullets is not so much, but if the rifle is built to high standard it's understandable to expect better than you've had. Did you get any recommendations from the builder?

And don't rule out defecive scope, even if it's brand new. Try the scope with different rifle, or rifle with different scope.
 
Could you post a side on view of your rifle? Just to see the components.
My experience with carbon barrels is very limited.... one Hardy barrel in 6.5CM that need a few hundred shots to start to sing and a Proof barrel in 300wm that shot well right away. Both in very lightweight builds, both shot well with several shooters out to 1200m.

edi
 
It's a 308. I've never had a 308 that has been difficult to load for and certainly not one that shoots 2moa. So your efforts suggest to me that something fundamental is wrong.

I would do 2 things before I was off to a 'smith.

Firstly I would get a shooting set up that was as 'solid' and repeatable as possible. I would have the front end on a big sandbag (dunno what your stock is like so this eliminates any issues with stocks and bipods) and the backend in another heavy bag, not one of the Tab gear bags. Take yourself and equipment out of it as much as possible.

I would reshoot some of your loads. Then I would shoot reputable match ammo. Something like federal gold medal match. Dunno if Hornady do an eld-m in 308? In 65 it is very good accuracy wise. I would expect FGMM or ELD-M to be better than 3/4 moa no matter what, really a lot better. But if they will not shoot worth a stuff then it is time to see a 'smith.
 
How does it shoot off hand?
All this chasing tiny groups can have you chasing your tail. You bought a light weight rifle for what? Stalking? How far is your average shot? Can this rifle shoot where you are looking. Will it not still bring home the bacon?
 
Is the bullet getting stabilised? Shorter barrel with faster than normal twist rate may suit only flat base bullets that are shorter. Unsure if this is the issue but had the problem with my lighweight .308 where boattail or any other longer bullets won't group until I figured this out. With the right bullets, it has been grouping well. Worth a try.
 
I have just purchased a very lightweight rifle, in .308

The new rifle is a custom with 22 inch Proof barrel, titanium action and carbon fibre stock. Moderator is a Atec H2.

I am not recoil sensitive, and find the .308 a pleasure to shoot.

My issue with the new rifle is accuracy. I’m 120 rounds into load development using 2 different bullet weights and 3 different powders. I’m not getting anything better than 2 MOA. Shooting strings of 3 leaving 10 mins between strings. For reference my other heavier rifles are all sub .5 MOA after load development, but they were showing promise within 50 rounds. I have also tried some factory ammo. Am shooting prone and have tried bipod and front bag both with rear bag.

Have checked all the usuals, stock screw torque, picatinny screw torque, scope ring torque etc. The scope is brand new. I’ve lined up on target and dry fired with no flinch.

My thoughts are that the problem is with me, my technique/hold/support not the kit.

Any suggestions gratefully received
Read this


Lightweight rifles can and do shoot very well but you need to manage the recoil.

And barrels heat up very quickly so multiple rapid shots will open up groups. But the also cool down quickly, so when zeroing / testing etc take your time and let barrel cool between shots otherwise you just waste ammo.

Lightweight rifles are a joy to hunt with. They are not high volume shooting range rifles.
 
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