Help with what to look for with a second hand rifle

AyJay

Member
Hi,

I've just got my FAC so I've started the process of looking for a rifle (a lefty). There are quite a few Tikkas that I'm interested in but I was wondering what things do you look for when you're looking at a second hand rifle?

I'm completely new to this so any guidance would be great.

Cheers
 
The calibres I have a ticket for are .22 LR .243,.308.
If I could get the .22LR under 500 and the other 2 calibres under 1200 each that would be ideal, but I'm more interest in what I need to look for in second hand rifles, what are the pitfalls that a beginner might make that an experienced person wouldn't.

Thanks
 
You and me are pretty much in the same situation, lefty with 22 243 and 308 on a new ticket, does that budget include scope, moderator and accessories?
 
Easy

Buy any of the CZ 22LR’s on gunstar. £250 max - they are amazing rifles!

There’s a tikka t3 LH in .243 for around £700 - if the seller or dealer can say it’s a good clean bore, buy it.

As for .308 - Mauser m12 for sale in gunstar for £850 - if bore is good condition, buy it

This would be a great package to start with, and not with funny old shjite havinf been around the block more than shameless Lucy
 
Couple of things, first off. You are a leftie, so you are at a disadvantage. Ask me how I know.
Second off, I personally would avoid a semi auto in 22. I just don’t find them as accurate as a bolt action, and they sling cases all over the place.

So, back to the plot.
Any rifle wants to fit you. That is where you pick up the rifle, put your eye to the scope and don’t have to hunt for the crosshairs to be centralised.
You want to get a warranty with the rifle, if burying from a dealer, then get it out and tested, shoot at a paper target at 100 yards, (centre fire) and see if it groups well. Off a bipod, or bags you should be able to get under 1.1/2 inches. Imho. I am presuming limited experience/trigger time here, so don’t expect you to get 1on 1. Basically you are looking at ensuring the rifle isn’t shot out.
If buying private, can your shoot the rifle somewhere before you buy?
Look at the trigger, American rifles tend to have a trigger pull over 3.5 lbs, European rifles can be set about 2. I prefer lighter.
Is the rifle clean, inside and out. does the action work smoothly?
Is it threaded for a moderator?
Do they have any idea of the shot count? People can lie about that.
Does it have a specific mounting system? Or does it have picatinny rail or dovetail?
 
The Tikka T3 is by far the most popular centerfire hunting rifle where I live (New Zealand).7mm-08 would be the most popular caliber, probably followed by the .308.For a first rifle I would just stick to new, you really don't know what a previous owner may have done to a used one and you have a warranty with a new one.Where I work we sell a lot of new Howa rifles and even though they are a 'budget' rifle I believe they offer a lot of rifle for little outlay, they are a better rifle than most in their price range,I would rather a new one of those than a used rifle in the same price bracket.Edited...of course you wanted a left handed rifle and Howa do not offer them in left-hand format AFAIK.
 
Hi,

I've just got my FAC so I've started the process of looking for a rifle (a lefty). There are quite a few Tikkas that I'm interested in but I was wondering what things do you look for when you're looking at a second hand rifle?

I'm completely new to this so any guidance would be great.

Cheers
Don't tie yourself in to thinking you need a LH rifle, I have shot RH rifles for 49 years. The lee Enfield was RH and that was used in the hundreds of thousands to great effect.
Rugers come in a Straight stock I believe
 
@AyJay - mate, I can feel your pain reading this - don't know why people don't read the question.

Things to look for with a 2nd hand rifle.
1. Always best if you can physically have a look and get hands on the rifle in question - photos and even videos will only show so much.
2. Don't rush when you're looking it over.
3. Muzzle - check the muzzle, particularly the crown - is in good condition with no signs of corrosion, nicks to the crown etc. If the rifle is displayed with moderator on the rifle, do remove the moderator and inspect the threads for corrosion, damage etc.
4. General condition - does it look like it's been slung in the back of a pig farmer's pick up or like it has been a fairweather only rifle? This is not always conclusive as to overall condition, but can give you a good idea about how the owner has cared for it (or not).
5. Bolt - is there pitting/cutting (look for a small circle around the firing pin hole) on the face of the bolt? Does it close properly and not display any gritty or crunchy feeling? Is there accumulated grease/dirt in the firing pin area? Worth dry firing it as well (take a Snap Cap with you as some owners won't want dry firing on an empty chamber) and get a feel for the trigger pull weight and lock time (if it seems slow and you've noticed excessive grease/dirt in the bolt firing pin space it could just need a clean). Check the extractor claw and ejector are not damaged (your Snap Cap round will help here as well).
6. Magazines - Snap Caps help again as you can run a few rounds through the mags and see how it feeds. Check the lips, springs etc all work and there aren't any cracks.
7. Stock - and obvious cracks, splits etc. A couple of chips here and there on a synthetic stock shouldn't put you off, but I can appreciate it may. Check around the receiver screws for signs of obvious over tightening (could be cracked receiver mount or a crack running from the receiver mount on the stock). Butt pad loose or excessively worn (but seller says it has only had 50 rounds through it, honest guv...)
8. Scope mounts - does it have a picatinny rail or mount, or does it have a dove tail? Has it been glued on? Or badly mounted? Check for rust under rail or claws/dovetail.
9. Chamber/rifling - onvious enough, but worth a good look. Rough chamber, carbon ring, missing riffling, frosted rifling, pitting etc all need to be considered.

That's about it I think, but bottom line is, if there is something niggling you, you need to decide if it is something you can replace (and afford to replace) or if it is a no go and walk away.
 
I was in a similar position 12 months ago (although slightly different calibres). I bought a .22LR second-hand but decided to buy my first deer rifle brand new (Sauer 100) which I think was a good decision.

Now I know a bit more about rifles more generally - I feel much more confident looking at second-hand rifles to fill my other slots.
 
Buying off this site is a good start. It's a community so, with very few exceptions people won't try and turn you over. I've bought and sold on here for more than 15 years and never had a single issue.

Otherwise your local gunsmith who you have a relationship with.

Ask for round count. If you or the seller can get it bore scoped all the better
 
Accept that the first half dozen rifles won't be the right one. Buy one, try it, revise your thoughts on what suits you and then sell it and buy another rifle.
Regards
JCS
Very true. And if you know exactly what you want, go for it, don't let people talk you into what they think you need.
 
Accept that the first half dozen rifles won't be the right one. Buy one, try it, revise your thoughts on what suits you and then sell it and buy another rifle.

Regards

JCS
Not necessarily: I've only ever bought 3 rifles in my life and still have them all. (Wouldn't want any others either.)

As regards scopes, have changed up to higher magnifications on 2, but in exactly the same make + model as what I was replacing!
 
@AyJay - mate, I can feel your pain reading this - don't know why people don't read the question.

Things to look for with a 2nd hand rifle.
1. Always best if you can physically have a look and get hands on the rifle in question - photos and even videos will only show so much.
2. Don't rush when you're looking it over.
3. Muzzle - check the muzzle, particularly the crown - is in good condition with no signs of corrosion, nicks to the crown etc. If the rifle is displayed with moderator on the rifle, do remove the moderator and inspect the threads for corrosion, damage etc.
4. General condition - does it look like it's been slung in the back of a pig farmer's pick up or like it has been a fairweather only rifle? This is not always conclusive as to overall condition, but can give you a good idea about how the owner has cared for it (or not).
5. Bolt - is there pitting/cutting (look for a small circle around the firing pin hole) on the face of the bolt? Does it close properly and not display any gritty or crunchy feeling? Is there accumulated grease/dirt in the firing pin area? Worth dry firing it as well (take a Snap Cap with you as some owners won't want dry firing on an empty chamber) and get a feel for the trigger pull weight and lock time (if it seems slow and you've noticed excessive grease/dirt in the bolt firing pin space it could just need a clean). Check the extractor claw and ejector are not damaged (your Snap Cap round will help here as well).
6. Magazines - Snap Caps help again as you can run a few rounds through the mags and see how it feeds. Check the lips, springs etc all work and there aren't any cracks.
7. Stock - and obvious cracks, splits etc. A couple of chips here and there on a synthetic stock shouldn't put you off, but I can appreciate it may. Check around the receiver screws for signs of obvious over tightening (could be cracked receiver mount or a crack running from the receiver mount on the stock). Butt pad loose or excessively worn (but seller says it has only had 50 rounds through it, honest guv...)
8. Scope mounts - does it have a picatinny rail or mount, or does it have a dove tail? Has it been glued on? Or badly mounted? Check for rust under rail or claws/dovetail.
9. Chamber/rifling - onvious enough, but worth a good look. Rough chamber, carbon ring, missing riffling, frosted rifling, pitting etc all need to be considered.

That's about it I think, but bottom line is, if there is something niggling you, you need to decide if it is something you can replace (and afford to replace) or if it is a no go and walk away.
Thankyou for the detailed answer, this is exactly the kind of things I need to learn about
 
Get it sent to a gunsmith you trust as a condition of sale.

Get them to borescope it.

If they refuse to do this don’t go near it.

Most external marks (within reason) are fixable, a rifle with a burnt out barrel is a paperweight.
 
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As with any used item, don’t take on face value what someone is selling unless you know or trust the seller

If it’s from a shop then there is some protection with guarantee and sale of good act

From private individual you are relying on the honesty of the seller

So details

Check

Overall condition

If it says light use low round count, the trigger guard, mag and bolt handle will have original blueing or coating unmarked

Specifics

Check crown for wear or pitting

Check bore with borescope

Pitting does not always mean inaccuracy

West or uneven marking / damage on crown does

Bolt face - clean and no rings well looked after

Carbon rings , pitted dirty - it’s been abused

Bolt shaft worn clean and shiny - lot of use

Bolt handle root on rem or howa damaged - walk away abused (hard opening)

Saftey operates ?

Stock damaged - abused dropped ?

Dinted then that’s normal

Trigger - check operation and drop test

Check saftey operates nd does not fire with simple drop test at 6” off ground

Accuracy - test fire if able to do so

Etc etc

Not easy for a beginner to look at all I’ve mentioned

Take someone with you who has experience

Note I say experience not someone who talks the talk with none
 
Okay, so what to look for in a second hand rifle is well covered above. However...

Spend your most money on your best interest. If it's for example, stalking, then go new. Obviously do the usual checks about fit though. Then, perhaps you want the .22LR for plinking and maybe the odd vermin control job, a semi automatic would be fine and fun to plink with. The coke cans rarely complain. But if you want accuracy and not spending half your time cleaning the mechanism to prevent jams, go for a bolt action. As for which makes to go for, then although there are some fine niche rifle makers out there, I would always be tempted to go for the big sellers. they sell a lot of them for a reason.

In any case, take your time, don't rush out of your local gun shop immediately your certificate lands with every rifle you have a slot for under your arm.
 
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