.243 shorty

[Jagged77]

I have a T3 varmint that’s been sat not really doing much. Factory 24” barrel and 1/2” UNF thread for a colossal T8 dustbin of a can… I want to make it more usable so going to have it cut down and rethreaded to 18x1 so I can use an SL5i

Ultimately it’s had 1200 rounds through it so on the downhill side of usable life, it does still shoot well for now. Will get it rebarrelled at some point.

However for now, anyone running a shorty .243? Be handy to have this down to 18” and push the 80 grainers along with N140 or similar for Roe. Will double as a fox rifle with NV too.

 

[jthyttin]

Depending on barrel contour and smith, you might be able to set the barrel back and rechamber (in addition to cutting to desired length). Some smiths won't do it, since chambering a used barrel isn't as straightforward / risk free as new barrel. It would also be beneficial to slug the barrel and base the new length on that, not some arbitraty number like 18".

If setting back, cut as long piece from chamber end as possible (throat area etc. is most worn). And if there are any markings on the barrel tenon, make sure those will be visible or moved forward (recut / stamped / lasered / whatever).

 

[BE Precision]

Ive got tikka barrels here, 16” .243 varmint and 17.5” lite .243 that i took off donor’s, and cut back as an experiment on accuracy improvement for rifles with tired crowns and last sections of barre due to poor care and maintenance l. Both now shoot really well, although I didn’t try them before i cut them, neither have any throat errosion or bad firecracking, you just have to be target a good bit of bore to find where to cut it, and avoid any rust/pitting which wouldn’t be good if it was at the new crown. I’d chop it and see. I wouldn’t mess around with the chamber

 

[Jagged77]

Couple of things with rechambering as I understand it, I know it’s something that gets talked about and done in the US, however by the time you’ve sent for proof here in the UK you may as well just pay for a new barrel. I’ve talked to a few smiths on the subject and have to agree with them that they wouldn’t want to use nice expensive reamers on shot out, work hardened fire cracked chambers!

Good call on the pitting near the new crown - will have to chop and inspect.

I think there’s a bit of life left in it, it’s still shooting half MOA but it is just the factory barrel. It seems to like the faster powders like RL15 anyway which I’ll need for the shorter barrel.

 

[Scottb123]

Couple of things with rechambering as I understand it, I know it’s something that gets talked about and done in the US, however by the time you’ve sent for proof here in the UK you may as well just pay for a new barrel. I’ve talked to a few smiths on the subject and have to agree with them that they wouldn’t want to use nice expensive reamers on shot out, work hardened fire cracked chambers!

Good call on the pitting near the new crown - will have to chop and inspect.

I think there’s a bit of life left in it, it’s still shooting half MOA but it is just the factory barrel. It seems to like the faster powders like RL15 anyway which I’ll need for the shorter barrel.

I used to run rl15 in my 243 but was never happy with the speed moved over to rs60 and its shoots light out now 90 grain running at 3100

 

[Jagged77]

I used to run rl15 in my 243 but was never happy with the speed moved over to rs60 and its shoots light out now 90 grain running at 3100

Yes RS60 is a good call - same thing as RE / Elcho 17 I believe which I have and I’ve used in .243 in the past. However I’m not sure I’ll get 100% burn rate with an 18” barrel, I might be limited to N140 / RE15.