The blaser click!
- Thread starter homer
- Start date
Has occurred occasionally
Specifically with .22 ammo
Cause?
1. Not closing bolt completely
2. Crap ammo as there is usually an impact on rim but no bang
PS
Had no 2 occur with several of my .22LR rifles- not just the blaser
Specifically with .22 ammo
Cause?
1. Not closing bolt completely
2. Crap ammo as there is usually an impact on rim but no bang
PS
Had no 2 occur with several of my .22LR rifles- not just the blaser
PPU .308 in my old R93 had the same issue and the same batch in my Tikka T3 was very stiff to load. I believe PPU is long from case head to shoulder causing the issue for a Balser and not allowing the bolt head collets to expand into battery. This is a safety feature on the Blaser, so if not in battery the firing pin won’t strike the primer.
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Really is a ‘balser’ then 
Blaser243
Well-Known Member
Was primarily a R93 thing. Cause solely due to not closing the bolt properly. Experienced it several times.
Now with the R8, never experienced it. Only thing I have experienced is the safety/cocking mechanism not locking into "go" position when the bolt hasn't been cycled forwards fully.
The simple answer is close the bolt sufficiently forcefully. If it won't close, then there is something wrong with your COL.
Now with the R8, never experienced it. Only thing I have experienced is the safety/cocking mechanism not locking into "go" position when the bolt hasn't been cycled forwards fully.
The simple answer is close the bolt sufficiently forcefully. If it won't close, then there is something wrong with your COL.
The "Blaser Click" has nothing to do with the ammunition, as people have already stated, it happens when the bolt isn't fully closed.
The only times I have experienced it, were in my early "driven boar" trips, where a lack of experience, and getting over excited when taking multiple shots, had me firing blanks, so to speak !
The only times I have experienced it, were in my early "driven boar" trips, where a lack of experience, and getting over excited when taking multiple shots, had me firing blanks, so to speak !
As Lateral said, Nothing to do with the Ammo, all to do with the clot behind the trigger, yes i have had it happen on more than one occasion.
It just needs to be closed a little firmer, that last click is all the difference. At least it doesn’t go off without it being fully engaged.
It just needs to be closed a little firmer, that last click is all the difference. At least it doesn’t go off without it being fully engaged.
All to do with ammo. I had a 6.5x55SE Blaser when they first came out. I used to only neck size when I reloaded. Started with new Lapua brass and after 4 or 5 reloads I was getting the click occasionally. It didn't matter how hard I rammed the bolt forward. I then started to full size my brass and the click disappeared forever.
Freeforester
Well-Known Member
PPU - Practically Pi55 Useless. Don’t run a Bentley on paraffin.
Issues with ammunition, is just that, an issue with ammunition. The Blaser "click", as it's known, is specifically down to how the bolt is closed, or isn't. It's mechanical.
Close the bolt fully, then ease it back a little until you feel some resistance, then push it back forward. Pull it back again, and pull the trigger......................................CLICK !
That difference is what is responsible for the "Blaser Click".
Motard
Well-Known Member
Shoulder bump is the key. Blasers are picky on it and either if dies are not set properly or factory ammo is uneven on shoulder clicks occurs. A firm smash on closing the bolt may help but the straight pull system would never be able to apply the same streght as a camming bolt action rifle. Reforming brass with collect dies more than twice between full sizing lead to clicks.
Yup, as in my post No10 above. 2thou set back on the case shoulder and all was sweet.
TringSaint
Well-Known Member
There is a natty solution to all of this - buy a bolt action rifle and be done with all this clicking!!
paulbshooting
Well-Known Member
As above, ammo variation / poor quality. When the days comes I have to shoot PPU I will sell up.
Motard
Well-Known Member
easier cure: buy a redding solo body die and push hem all back without need of dismantling. it works 100/100 safely
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Any rifle, whether its a blaser, a bolt action, break action action should not fire unless the action is fully closed. With any bolt only put handle half way down - it won’t fire.
In a Blaser if the bolt is not fully forward then the locking lugs are not fully engaged.
With a bolt completely in battery and then gun were to fire the bolt may be coming back pretty fast.
Some cartridges and ammo may well be close to the upper end of tolerances in terms of length and may exert a resistance to the bolt closing. I have noticed this with some factory ammo, and reloads when I haven’t fully resized the case - ie the shell holder is not firmly pressed at bottom of die.
It can also occur when chamber gets grubby with carbon build up at the lands.
A firm forward pressure on the bolt as you load usually solves problem in the field.
In a Blaser if the bolt is not fully forward then the locking lugs are not fully engaged.
With a bolt completely in battery and then gun were to fire the bolt may be coming back pretty fast.
Some cartridges and ammo may well be close to the upper end of tolerances in terms of length and may exert a resistance to the bolt closing. I have noticed this with some factory ammo, and reloads when I haven’t fully resized the case - ie the shell holder is not firmly pressed at bottom of die.
It can also occur when chamber gets grubby with carbon build up at the lands.
A firm forward pressure on the bolt as you load usually solves problem in the field.
