Can anyone tell me what is wrong (if anything), with my ‘scope mount?

Jorrocks

Member
Good morning all,

I have just got my Heym SR20 back out of long-term storage, and now am struggling to refit the ‘scope.
The mounts are a swing-off type but I don’t know the make - I am pretty sure they were sold as Apel but I’m not convinced, as they look different!
When I engage the front mount, there is a gap between the foot of the rear ring and the base. That can’t be right, can it?
I was thinking of changing the mounts as you can see I have no more rearward adjustment and was never able to get a good sight picture without really moving my head around!
 

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They look identical to the ones I've just fitted to my .270
It wasn't straightforward, but we got there in the end!
 
Just a touch of tension downwards on the scope is no bad thing. When the two clamping screws go in it will all tighten up.

It’s a typical Leupold / Redfield type mount. Put a smear of fresh oil / grease on the front foot so it doesn’t gall as you twist it in.

They are not Apel’s - they are a quick detachable type with a rear catch.

With this type of mount you have windage adjustment on the rear mount. Bore sight and use the opposing screws to do the course adjustment. Make sure the reticle is centred first.

Once you are all zeroed, remove one of the screws, apply threadlock and replace it. Recheck zero. If / when you want to take the scope undo the other screw abd swing it off, when replacing swing it back against the fixed screw and you should be pretty much back on point of aim.
 
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Ahh, scope mounts... here's an amusing one for you.. I'll not mention any names 🤭

Sako75 in .308, Swarovski scope and it started to shoot like a shotgun, tbf the owner was never happy with the groups he got... I had a phone call a few days ago, the owner thinks he's found out the problem, he gave the rifle yet another deep clean, bought some different factory ammo to try... and then he noticed half of one of the scope mounts had "Dropped Off"...

You can't make it up sometimes....
 
If you have a folding rear sight and want to swap it for a sight like this one and a couple of quid, do be in touch!
 

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Just a touch of tension downwards on the scope is no bad thing. When the two clamping screws go in it will all tighten up.

It’s a typical Leupold / Redfield type mount. Put a smear of fresh oil / grease on the front foot so it doesn’t gall as you twist it in.

They are not Apel’s - they are a quick detachable type with a rear catch.

With this type of mount you have windage adjustment on the rear mount. Bore sight and use the opposing screws to do the course adjustment. Make sure the reticle is centred first.

Once you are all zeroed, remove one of the screws, apply threadlock and replace it. Recheck zero. If / when you want to take the scope undo the other screw abd swing it off, when replacing swing it back against the fixed screw and you should be pretty much back on point of aim.
Thank you for your comprehensive reply, I’ll get it set up properly at the weekend!
 
They are Redfield/Leupold mounts, the front turns in and the back is held between 2x opposing screws. They are not designed as detachable, the front mount will loosen if removed and replaced several times.

The rear mount is wrong, it might pull together by tightening the screws, or damage your scope or mount, it needs a shim under it. My old Whitworth had the rear mount to one side as it was drilled off center, it lasted until the barrel was worn out, so no issues.

Leupold instructions
 
It’s a typical Leupold / Redfield type mount.

Once you are all zeroed, remove one of the screws, apply threadlock and replace it. Recheck zero. If / when you want to take the scope undo the other screw abd swing it off, when replacing swing it back against the fixed screw and you should be pretty much back on point of aim.
They are Redfield/Leupold mounts, the front turns in and the back is held between 2x opposing screws. They are not designed as detachable, the front mount will loosen if removed and replaced several times.

Completely contrasting advice here 🤔
It would be really helpful to know which is correct, as this thread has got me thinking about the "detachability" of this arrangement, as my rifle still has it's open sights in situ and it would be nice to be able to remove the scope in the way that @Heym SR20 has suggested, and have a go with them, if possible.
 
Completely contrasting advice here 🤔
It would be really helpful to know which is correct, as this thread has got me thinking about the "detachability" of this arrangement, as my rifle still has it's open sights in situ and it would be nice to be able to remove the scope in the way that @Heym SR20 has suggested, and have a go with them, if possible.
The Redfield type of mounts & rings as described and seen here have never been marketed as a "return to zero" swing-off system. That it is possible to remove a scope and then put it back on c/o the method described by Heym is not in question but note his key sentence: " ........... you should be pretty much back on point of aim."

I would not contemplate going hunting after such removal & refitting without first checking and adjusting rifle zero as pretty much back on point of aim is simply not good enough.

By all means give it a go on PAPER and see how you get on.

K
 
The EAW system has an adjustment screw on the front mount to take up wear after many removals or to adjust tightness when first fitted. (arrows).
1771350457117.webp
 
The Redfield type of mounts & rings as described and seen here have never been marketed as a "return to zero" swing-off system. That it is possible to remove a scope and then put it back on c/o the method described by Heym is not in question but note his key sentence: " ........... you should be pretty much back on point of aim."

I would not contemplate going hunting after such removal & refitting without first checking and adjusting rifle zero as pretty much back on point of aim is simply not good enough.

By all means give it a go on PAPER and see how you get on.

K
Thank you. That's helpful.
I'm also conscious that the front ring takes a fair bit of effort to cam it into the slot in the base, and that it's not ideal to use the scope as a lever to achieve this. However, I notice that the "stalk" of the ring has two flat faces, and I had thought that a small soft-jawed spanner could be applied to assist in easing it into place without putting undue strain on the scope tube.
Anyhow, enough thread hijacking, as I'm not helping the OP very much!
 
Thank you. That's helpful.
I'm also conscious that the front ring takes a fair bit of effort to cam it into the slot in the base, and that it's not ideal to use the scope as a lever to achieve this. However, I notice that the "stalk" of the ring has two flat faces, and I had thought that a small soft-jawed spanner could be applied to assist in easing it into place without putting undue strain on the scope tube.
Anyhow, enough thread hijacking, as I'm not helping the OP very much!
I've had both loose and tight Redfied mounts/rings. In one case the latter required applying valve grinding paste and working the spud back and forth until it was a smooth interference fit.

K
 
The EAW system has an adjustment screw on the front mount to take up wear after many removals or to adjust tightness when first fitted. (arrows).
View attachment 461137
True but not really relevant in this case as they are Redfield/Leupold and not intended to be quick detachable. If you only slack off only the one opposing screw then its possible to return the scope to something like a rough zero when remounting it on the rifle but as Klechblaize says you need to check and adjust on paper.

I'm a little surprised that Jorrocks says that the scope isn't set back enough for a good sight picture.
 
The Redfield type of mounts & rings as described and seen here have never been marketed as a "return to zero" swing-off system. That it is possible to remove a scope and then put it back on c/o the method described by Heym is not in question but note his key sentence: " ........... you should be pretty much back on point of aim."

I would not contemplate going hunting after such removal & refitting without first checking and adjusting rifle zero as pretty much back on point of aim is simply not good enough.

By all means give it a go on PAPER and see how you get on.

K
Correct, they are not return zero constant on and off like a claw or an EAW swing mount. But for swapping one scope fir another, or removing for transport etc and where you will have the opportunity to check zero they are more than good enough.

I have similar mounts on my Rigby - it was built with them. Its not a perfect return to zero - needs a click or two adjustment, but within minute of angle of a large animal kill zone at 100 yards - yes.

Even things like claw mounts are not perfect return to zero, but they are usually good enough for the type of rifles and hunting for which they are being used.
 
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Maybe to avoid fouling the bolt?
I had to put mine the "wrong" way around for that very reason, and every similarly actioned rifle I have seen with these bases has them the same way.
The Heym has a pretty rear bridge so unless the rings are mounted over the screw holes the rings need to be a little forward.
 
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