What range you zero at?

[.243 t3]

.243 zero range?

100 yards
100 yards inch high
150 yards
200 yards

.?

 

[bewsher500]

Option 2 and 4

They are basically the same.

 

[Hereford]

Option 2 - 100gr

 

[.243 t3]

I zero 1 inch high at 100 yards ,
a friend of mine thinks 200 yards zero is more popular and a better range to zero at.! We will see on here.

 

[Monkey Spanker]

Most deer are shot at about 100m or less. It therefore makes sense to zero at 100m and aim off for anything different, otherwise you are shooting the majority of your deer with a rifle that is effectively not zeroed!
MS

 

[jcampbellsmith]

Most deer are shot at about 100m or less. It therefore makes sense to zero at 100m and aim off for anything different, otherwise you are shooting the majority of your deer with a rifle that is effectively not zeroed!
MS

I don't agree. I've shot to have a Point of Impact of 1 inch high at a 100 yds since the late '60's. That was long before I'd ever heard of maximum point blank range and it's served me very well ever since. I don't record the ranges I shoot deer at, but working back over the last week, it's been 140 yds, 46 yds and 190 yds at roe buck.

I didn't give any consideration to holding off for any of these roe buck.

Regards

JCS

 

[jcampbellsmith]

I zero 1 inch high at 100 yards ,
a friend of mine thinks 200 yards zero is more popular and a better range to zero at.! We will see on here.

It's hard to find locations to shoot at 200yds and not have the wind impacting on the group. When it's very windy, I will check zero at 50 yds and I expect to be dead on. From time to time I check zero at 100 yds and I expect to be 1 inch high. More rarely I check for group at 170 yds and I expect to be dead on with a group that is influenced by whatever wind there is.

What is important is to have the same set-up with every rifle that you shoot so that the sight picture is consistent. Shooting well is about doing a few simple things consistently.

Regards

JCS

 

[.243 t3]

JCS

thats what I think!

 

[bogtrotter]

1 inch high at 100 yards .243 100 gr no hold off from zero to 200 yards.

 

[McKenzie]

I use 2 bullets for slightly different purposes.

100g bang on at 100y & I have an 80g that I use that shoots 2" high at 100y giving an effective 200y zero, or 5 clicks makes it the same as the 100g at 100y.

 

[RED-DOT]

.22 smack on @ 40y
.22.250 55g 1" above @ 100y
.243 100g 1.5" high @ 100y

 

[achosenman]

I zero at .5 inch high at 100. That gives me dead on at 50 yds for neck shooting and dead on at 150 yds. 200 yds I'm just a tad low so a normal boiler room hold puts it in the heart...simples.

Atb

 

[Brno2e]

1 inch high at a hundred with my normal 75 or 80 grain rounds still gives a group just cutting the top of the aiming point with heavier stuff, nothing to give me anything to worry about guessing or holding over.

 

[JTO]

I don't agree. I've shot to have a Point of Impact of 1 inch high at a 100 yds since the late '60's. That was long before I'd ever heard of maximum point blank range and it's served me very well ever since. I don't record the ranges I shoot deer at, but working back over the last week, it's been 140 yds, 46 yds and 190 yds at roe buck.

I didn't give any consideration to holding off for any of these roe buck.

Regards

JCS

+1

 

[Monkey Spanker]

It's hard to find locations to shoot at 200yds and not have the wind impacting on the group. When it's very windy, I will check zero at 50 yds and I expect to be dead on. From time to time I check zero at 100 yds and I expect to be 1 inch high. More rarely I check for group at 170 yds and I expect to be dead on with a group that is influenced by whatever wind there is.

What is important is to have the same set-up with every rifle that you shoot so that the sight picture is consistent. Shooting well is about doing a few simple things consistently.

Regards

JCS

Bang on at both 50 & 170 and only an inch high at 100m? Really? What are you shooting as that seems to be incredibly flat?
Even my .280AI drops about 4.5 inches from 100m out to 200m. I try to treat every deer as an individual target and adjust each sight picture according to its range. Much less room for error that way. Dropping several inches on a roe out at 200m without aiming slightly high is just asking for a wounded brisket shot. Knowing the trajectory of your rifle at various ranges is essential and allows you to place the shot exactly where you want it. What you choose as a datum point, whether it be bang on or high at a chosen range is personal preference, but if you want accuracy, then you need to adjust. There is not much room for any human error if you are already several inches off due to effective zero error!
MS

 

[Cyres]

Normally 1" high at 100yds, last week did tests between 75/87 v max and v comparable, at 50 yds spot on and 25 approx 1.5" low. In fact at 50 yds aimesd at the drawing pin attaching the taget to the backer and shot it clean out.

D

 

[Eric the Red]

Bang on at both 50 & 170 and only an inch high at 100m? Really? What are you shooting as that seems to be incredibly flat?
Even my .280AI drops about 4.5 inches from 100m out to 200m. I try to treat every deer as an individual target and adjust each sight picture according to its range. Much less room for error that way. Dropping several inches on a roe out at 200m without aiming slightly high is just asking for a wounded brisket shot. Knowing the trajectory of your rifle at various ranges is essential and allows you to place the shot exactly where you want it. What you choose as a datum point, whether it be bang on or high at a chosen range is personal preference, but if you want accuracy, then you need to adjust. There is not much room for any human error if you are already several inches off due to effective zero error!
MS

Let me start with an intentional pun - I think the point is being missed.

To be clear then, zeroing at 1in high at 100 (and BTW I do this) is not zeroing per se, other than that a greater, undefined distance. You re just choosing to measure at a shorter distance and extrapolate for all the practical reasons already mentioned. Each calibre and rifle will have a different set of zeros (one close and one further away through trajectory). The comment above re: being very flat would be correct IMO if the trajectory of that bullet climbed no higher than 1in overall. The reality (I suspect) is that the bullet is still climbing in that instance and therefore is higher at say 120-130 before crossing back through the points described.

By example, my 22.250 is on at 55yards, 1in high at 100, a max of 1.6in high 140-170 and back on at 215. Of course the true trajectory is affected also by the difference between the bore and the scope height. Mine is relatively big, which has the effect of giving a longer MPBZ than a scope mounted much closer to the barrel - which may be another reason for the numbers appearing bigger and 'flatter' than a faster calibre.

My 270, 'zero'd' again 1in high at 100 has a similar first zero (the scope being of an equivalent height above the bore to the 22.250), makes closer to 2in high in the 150 mark before a true zero at 185 and dropping thereafter (for which I have the very effective Swarovski BT to assist me).

I hope this helps the conversation.

 

[Klenchblaize]

I adjust my crosshair to ensure bullet strike in accordance with a 100 yard aim.

K

 

[Ranger22]

Mine is set bang on at 100 yards, aim slightly high for 200yards after that it's mil dots. First mil dot 300 yards, second 400 yards. This is for 105gr A max. Don't think there is a right way or a wrong way to do it, just do what suits your shooting best.

 

[Geordiehillbilly]

I found this quite useful:

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php