What range you zero at?

Let me start with an intentional pun - I think the point is being missed.

To be clear then, zeroing at 1in high at 100 (and BTW I do this) is not zeroing per se, other than that a greater, undefined distance. You re just choosing to measure at a shorter distance and extrapolate for all the practical reasons already mentioned. Each calibre and rifle will have a different set of zeros (one close and one further away through trajectory). The comment above re: being very flat would be correct IMO if the trajectory of that bullet climbed no higher than 1in overall. The reality (I suspect) is that the bullet is still climbing in that instance and therefore is higher at say 120-130 before crossing back through the points described.

By example, my 22.250 is on at 55yards, 1in high at 100, a max of 1.6in high 140-170 and back on at 215. Of course the true trajectory is affected also by the difference between the bore and the scope height. Mine is relatively big, which has the effect of giving a longer MPBZ than a scope mounted much closer to the barrel - which may be another reason for the numbers appearing bigger and 'flatter' than a faster calibre.

My 270, 'zero'd' again 1in high at 100 has a similar first zero (the scope being of an equivalent height above the bore to the 22.250), makes closer to 2in high in the 150 mark before a true zero at 185 and dropping thereafter (for which I have the very effective Swarovski BT to assist me).

I hope this helps the conversation.

I'm afraid the ballistic data does not agree with you mate. .5 high (my zero for a 150 dead on) and other stalkers 1 inch high are both at the highest point of trajectory with a 270Win 130gn Nos BT. I've just re-run the data. It hasn't changed in 30 years, both from field observation's and later by computer. In the early days I did it using 243 Win and a 100gn Sierra Game King.
Verified home load data:
Win270. 130gn Ballistic Tip @ 3037 +54F 55%RH 30.2 press. Scope Swarovski 2.5-15X56Z6 ht1.8 inch. Rifle Blaser R8 pro success.
50yds= - .2
100yds= .5
110yds= .5
120yds= .4
130yds= .3
140yds= .2
150yds= 0
160yds= - .2
200yds= - 1.7

ATB
 
223 1 inch at a 100,6,5 top of a centre circle at 100,22lr bang on at 65yds 17hmr an inch low at 100 only because the elevations maxed and i cant be arsed to change the scope,:D
 
As I have access to a 100 yard range this is what I zero at, however the latest targets indicate that the zero is 1" high (.243 90grn accubonds) so I am content with that as well. Perhaps the important thing is to restrict your shooting to distances that you really feel comfortable with.

atb Tim
 
I'm afraid the ballistic data does not agree with you mate. .5 high (my zero for a 150 dead on) and other stalkers 1 inch high are both at the highest point of trajectory with a 270Win 130gn Nos BT. I've just re-run the data. It hasn't changed in 30 years, both from field observation's and later by computer. In the early days I did it using 243 Win and a 100gn Sierra Game King.
Verified home load data:
Win270. 130gn Ballistic Tip @ 3037 +54F 55%RH 30.2 press. Scope Swarovski 2.5-15X56Z6 ht1.8 inch. Rifle Blaser R8 pro success.
50yds= - .2
100yds= .5
110yds= .5
120yds= .4
130yds= .3
140yds= .2
150yds= 0
160yds= - .2
200yds= - 1.7

ATB

I was at pains to ensure it was clear I was not calling anyone out - and that remains my case. I'm not saying anyone was wrong - just looking for a plausible explanation to the additional question asked. A bullet will drop less far in the 1-200m range if zeroed 1in high than if zeroed bob on - same is true with an increased difference in scope to bore height - it's just projectile physics. My data is different to yours because I use a different bullet in a different rifle (of the same calibre) with a different scope-bore height and get different results. As long as we are all happy with the PoI of our rifles at given distances, I'm not sure there's any further conversation. The OP wanted to seek opinion as to what range to assess PoI is 'best' = and the correct answer was given early on as - the range at which you shoot most often.
 
I think that the point that might be being missed here is that we are talking deer stalking not international range shooting. In terms of making a fatal shot at normal deer stalking ranges of say 50 to 200 yards being 1" high at 100 yards is neither here or there and I wouldn't be getting overexcited about whether my rifle is spot on or 1" high. Zeroing is usually done prone or off a bench but the average shooter's accuracy off sticks or in a sitting position may not be within that tolerance so it's a bit academic. Personally I zero 1" high at 100 yards knowing that between 50 and 200 yards I am effectively aiming at what I want to hit and on the very rare occasion when I might go over 200 I'll know the possibility in advance and would have consulted the ballistics charts to get guidance on allowances.

I was in a high seat in Norfolk a year or so ago, I knew the ranges to a couple of landmarks but with the light almost gone a big stag came out much further up the next field than I expected, I didn't have a range finder but guessed it to be about 300 yards but, as this was further than any anticipated shot, I was unsure about how exactly much drop I'd get, the estimated range itself being at the limit of my comfortable range, even for a big living quarry, combined with poor light and a slightly less than rock solid rest as there was a high wind, I passed on the shot. I later checked it on Google Earth and found it to be 350-360 yards so I was glad that I passed on the shot.
 
I was at pains to ensure it was clear I was not calling anyone out - and that remains my case. I'm not saying anyone was wrong - just looking for a plausible explanation to the additional question asked. A bullet will drop less far in the 1-200m range if zeroed 1in high than if zeroed bob on - same is true with an increased difference in scope to bore height - it's just projectile physics. My data is different to yours because I use a different bullet in a different rifle (of the same calibre) with a different scope-bore height and get different results. As long as we are all happy with the PoI of our rifles at given distances, I'm not sure there's any further conversation. The OP wanted to seek opinion as to what range to assess PoI is 'best' = and the correct answer was given early on as - the range at which you shoot most often.

Not really. I zero for a second POI range of 150yds. That means I can zero for a first POI at 55yds. It then drops back through LOS at 150yds. But it is easier to achieve that goal by picking a range at which small POI errors are shown without introducing too many extraneous external factors like X/W etc. 100yds seems the sweet spot to achieve that. Therefore in my case being .5 high means I'm zeroed at 150yds, even though I'm not shooting at that distance.

In the military we used to zero weapons on the 25M pipe ranges in our FOB's using ladder targets. Each rung gave us a corresponding zero point depending on weapon system and sight. We were zeroing at 25m, but not zeroed for 25m

Atb
 
1" high at 100 and then you're good out to 200. Most of my shots are 100 or less, but if I do catch something in the open then I can be confident it will still hit the mark.

Ballistic turrets...dialling things in.....why make life so complicated??

Or is it more a case of "boys and their toys?" ;)
 
1" high at 100 and then you're good out to 200. Most of my shots are 100 or less, but if I do catch something in the open then I can be confident it will still hit the mark.

Ballistic turrets...dialling things in.....why make life so complicated??

Or is it more a case of "boys and their toys?" ;)

Boys and toys to an extent without any doubt at all, but I'm confident with the turrets that I can shoot at longer distances on the hill and onto paper if I want to. It makes no difference at all at normal stalking distances, but you know you can take a long shot if you have to.

I first switched to turrets after we found a Stag during the Hind season with a very badly broken back leg. As we came around the corner in the truck (estate track) he got up from the road side and ran up the hill dragging his rear left behind him. Amazing how fast he ran.

As he was on the run I set up on the bonnet and a mate had a rangefinder. When the Stag stopped the first time he was at 420 yards. I fired the first very low and hit him mid front leg with the second. He went another 20 yards and stopped again, appeared that 2 legs was a bit challenging. I killed him with the third bullet.

After that experience I swore it would never happen to me again, so now all my scopes have turrets which I have marked up clearly out to 500 yds. I practice at that distance twice a year and know the calibration is correct.

Something similar has only happened once since (in 10 years) but I was able to take the shot successfully. To my mind that is worth all the effort.
 
I'm very envious of some of you guys for being so accurate that you can talk about tenths of an inch when zeroing.

Most people I've met, myself included, would be doing very well to realistically hold a true one inch five shot group without trying very hard. Plenty of people would be nearer two inches when zeroing and much greater than that under field conditions.

In answer to the original question, I zero my rifles to be spot on at 100m. Very surprised to hear this classed as 'not best practice', it always seems to have worked for me.
 
MPBR in my 308 scout. For our size deer the heart/lung zone is normally judged as 6 inches, therefore a trajectory must not hit higher or lower than 3 inches from point of aim. Depending on load this gives my 308 a dead on hold to approx 275 yards without the need to dial in. My self imposed limit is 200 M. Kind of makes the 'hot' calibres a little redundant.
 
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