6.5x55 Swedish

I shoot a .270 but I've got a slot on FAC for a 6.5x55 and going to go shopping at some point.

Can I ask what make and model of powder measure it is please? I am going to start reloading soon and will do it by hand initially but might like to consider an automated measure for the future.
 
its my primary rifle, CZ550. Just took it out today, perfected by load and stacked 5 on top of one another at 100m, you could call it a 10mm group.

6.5x55 is quite easy to load and very worry free in my experience, kills everything up to moose, doubles as a decent varminter when loaded hot. Jack of all traits really with a good BC across the bullet range wich i apreciate for the rare occasiona i actually push a shot out.

Current load

123gr fox classic hunter, minimum legal for moose, fast enough to nail a roe deer out to 300m without adjusting POA if aiming high shoulder.

46.2gr of n550

fireformed and necksized Lapua brass

OAL 71.15 plastic tips removed (the batch i bought had a few fall out on their own)


I won't hate on 6.5 creed etc, no reason why it would be worse. But the 6.5x55 to me has the edge, more case capacity in a strong 98 type action.... just fireform your brass before you go there and necksize from there or brass wont last long.
 
its my primary rifle, CZ550. Just took it out today, perfected by load and stacked 5 on top of one another at 100m, you could call it a 10mm group.

6.5x55 is quite easy to load and very worry free in my experience, kills everything up to moose, doubles as a decent varminter when loaded hot. Jack of all traits really with a good BC across the bullet range wich i apreciate for the rare occasiona i actually push a shot out.

Current load

123gr fox classic hunter, minimum legal for moose, fast enough to nail a roe deer out to 300m without adjusting POA if aiming high shoulder.

46.2gr of n550

fireformed and necksized Lapua brass

OAL 71.15 plastic tips removed (the batch i bought had a few fall out on their own)


I won't hate on 6.5 creed etc, no reason why it would be worse. But the 6.5x55 to me has the edge, more case capacity in a strong 98 type action.... just fireform your brass before you go there and necksize from there or brass wont last long.
I am just waiting to collect some factory loaded 123grn fox.
Home loading nosler 120 grn to good effect using vit 150
 
I am just waiting to collect some factory loaded 123grn fox.
Home loading nosler 120 grn to good effect using vit 150
I basically started from Eds published factory load (wich it is as i understand it) wich gave me about about 20mm groups of 3. then i played around a bit until it was perfect. just some minor tweaks here and there. The factory loaded stuff gave me about 35mm. What made the biggest difference for me was the fireforming of the brass! 6.5x55 on paper is a damn near perfect cartridge but it suffers the same issue as most military stuff. loose standards on chambers.

The factory stuff mostly gets designed to fit in the milsurps as well as all the high end modern rifles and the customs. So it tends to run on the loose side in most comercial chambers. Easy fix tho
 
Oh and as for non tox vs lead, I like the non tox in most rifles so why risk it. Rather find out lead was fine all along than find out my children have lead poisoning, dont feel like i miss out on anything and in some chamberings non tox is transformative ,222 with 45gr fox classic hunter suddenly punches like a different caliber, and i get to shoot flatter in my other rifles (different rules for lead and non tox here, non tox can be lighter)

On moose tho, basic cheap 180gr soft points in the 308 AK. Doubles as target ammo at the price and the guy usually insist on cutting wide around the wound channel anyway.
 
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