Arkens Zulus 3X or 5X

[Smellydog]

Yep thanks Smelly but on the Pard it wasn’t and I still couldn’t find it!
So how do you know you have set it for recoil recording apart from firing a shot or in my case half a trayfull?

The timer will start running. Otherwise you just get a wee icon. Think it says RAV.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Shot two foxes last night with the Zulus - pretty impressive bit of kit with a great built-in IR but the focus is sooooo finicky!
Or is it me…..

 

[sauer]

no it is a great bit of kit but it IS focus fussy ..... basically get it where you wan tit picture wise and dinnae touch it !...unless really need to


Paul

 

[Foxyboy43]

Hmmm.
Out with the Zulus today - not it’s finest moment - 2inches left of last zero and for the second time in 6 months or so it turned itself off at the first two shots then it fired the other three without incident.
Usual approach - turn off, remove battery, turn on and all seems good except had to re-zero….

 

[mealiejimmy]

Hmmm.
Out with the Zulus today - not it’s finest moment - 2inches left of last zero and for the second time in 6 months or so it turned itself off at the first two shots then it fired the other three without incident.
Usual approach - turn off, remove battery, turn on and all seems good except had to re-zero….

For the zero shift check the tightness of the screws holding the mount to the scope - and I d hope you have all four screws fitted
For the turn off on recoil get a 1.6mm magnet like this 12.7mm dia x 1.58mm thick N52 Neodymium Magnet - 1.38kg Pull - Licensed Material
and stick onto the battery negative

Cheers

Bruce

 

[Foxyboy43]

For the zero shift check the tightness of the screws holding the mount to the scope - and I d hope you have all four screws fitted
For the turn off on recoil get a 1.6mm magnet like this 12.7mm dia x 1.58mm thick N52 Neodymium Magnet - 1.38kg Pull - Licensed Material
and stick onto the battery negative

Cheers

Bruce

Good man - all four screws already fitted thanks MJ.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Good man - all four screws already fitted thanks MJ.

Further update:-
* one of the four screws holding the Zulus to the mount was very slightly loose - after a quick tightening check the zero was 1 inch higher at 100 yds so a quick zero adjustment and spot on again;
* I replaced the battery with another well-known one and twenty shots later no shutting down - not sure if the problem is battery specific but will keep an eye on it and take a note of which battery shut-down it happens with;
* magnets arrived - Jeez are they powerful! I will keep them in reserve until a full trial of the different battery which means I don’t have to try and separate them for a while!
Sooo - all good again. Question is - with the adjustment to the 100yds zero will the Ballistic Calculator zeroes still be accurate or do I have to re-programme the Zulus?
A further learning point for Zulus newbies - using the PiP function pretty much makes the Range Finder/Ballistic Calculator redundant if magnification is at 20x as the RF cross disappears from the screen but if you cancel the PiP the RF cross is still usable right up to 20x. This might be overcome if your crosshairs are below centre of the main screen?
Personally I find 5x is grand except for the really longish shots - 200+.

 

[mealiejimmy]

You don't need to do anything with the ballistic calculator numbers as long as the distance you zeroed the scope at is the same as the zero distance in your ballistic data
My understanding of what happens when you have a ballistic table in the scope and you use the rangefinder to get a holdover (or holdunder or reticle shift) for a target at a given range is as follows:
a. You range the target
b. The scope "looks" for that range in the ballistic table to find out what the drop is at that range
c. The scope calculates how many display pixels that drop represents
d. The scope knows the X and Y values for the position of the reticle (only the Y value matters) and puts the holdover mark the calculated number of pixels below (or above for hold under) the centre of the reticle

For example, when the scope is zeroed at 15 yards, the Y value is -55 (say)
A target is ranged at 80 yards and the ballistic table gives a drop of 10moa at that range
The scope knows that, on a 5-20, each pixel represents an angle of 0.14moa, so it can easily figure out that the holdover mark needs to be 10/0.14= 71 pixels below the centre of the reticle

The LRF cross is in a fixed position on the screen - on my 5-20 it's at X=-56, Y=84,
If, when the scope is zeroed, the X value is between +196 and -310 and the Y value is between +225 and -60, the LRF splash will be visible at all magnifications (with the PiP switched off

Cheers

Bruce

 

[Foxyboy43]

You don't need to do anything with the ballistic calculator numbers as long as the distance you zeroed the scope at is the same as the zero distance in your ballistic data
My understanding of what happens when you have a ballistic table in the scope and you use the rangefinder to get a holdover (or holdunder or reticle shift) for a target at a given range is as follows:
a. You range the target
b. The scope "looks" for that range in the ballistic table to find out what the drop is at that range
c. The scope calculates how many display pixels that drop represents
d. The scope knows the X and Y values for the position of the reticle (only the Y value matters) and puts the holdover mark the calculated number of pixels below (or above for hold under) the centre of the reticle

For example, when the scope is zeroed at 15 yards, the Y value is -55 (say)
A target is ranged at 80 yards and the ballistic table gives a drop of 10moa at that range
The scope knows that, on a 5-20, each pixel represents an angle of 0.14moa, so it can easily figure out that the holdover mark needs to be 10/0.14= 71 pixels below the centre of the reticle

The LRF cross is in a fixed position on the screen - on my 5-20 it's at X=-56, Y=84,
If, when the scope is zeroed, the X value is between +196 and -310 and the Y value is between +225 and -60, the LRF splash will be visible at all magnifications (with the PiP switched off

Cheers

Bruce

Brilliant reply - thank you sir.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Further update:-
* one of the four screws holding the Zulus to the mount was very slightly loose - after a quick tightening check the zero was 1 inch higher at 100 yds so a quick zero adjustment and spot on again;
* I replaced the battery with another well-known one and twenty shots later no shutting down - not sure if the problem is battery specific but will keep an eye on it and take a note of which battery shut-down it happens with;
* magnets arrived - Jeez are they powerful! I will keep them in reserve until a full trial of the different battery which means I don’t have to try and separate them for a while!
Sooo - all good again. Question is - with the adjustment to the 100yds zero will the Ballistic Calculator zeroes still be accurate or do I have to re-programme the Zulus?
A further learning point for Zulus newbies - using the PiP function pretty much makes the Range Finder/Ballistic Calculator redundant if magnification is at 20x as the RF cross disappears from the screen but if you cancel the PiP the RF cross is still usable right up to 20x. This might be overcome if your crosshairs are below centre of the main screen?
Personally I find 5x is grand except for the really longish shots - 200+.

As per earlier post re Zulus shutting down as shot is fired - someone ( thank you sir) suggested really tightening the battery cap down - I did this yesterday at the range - 45 shots and no problems plus with a hundred yard zero and using the r/f and ballistic calculator it was spot on at 240.