Bluing

[JockStalk]

I’m preparing to diy reblue. Philips cold blue is what I have. It’s a barrel and action. Value of this means getting it professionally done is not an option. So what I’m looking for is experience/ practical ideas on how to best prepare metalwork and apply this to get best outcome? It’s been well used and bluing largely gone, bit of surface rust but nothing dramatic.
its a bit of a ‘quarantine’ project, so any thoughts much appreciated!

 

[Heym SR20]

I have recently used the phillips stuff diluted as intstructions and was impressed. But i was screws and toplever and trigger so had plastic dish into which i could imerse them

for a barreled action you need a long thin tank or a tube. Piece of plastic stoppered at one end a wooden bung in the chamber a muzzle.

also warming up the barrel seems to open pores and allows are more permanent finish.

removing the existing bluing first - use some form of acid or bluing remover. I believe vinegar works wellhttp://www.gunrack.co.nz/removing-bluing-rifle/

And the beauty of chemically removing bluing is that you wont damage the underlying surface.

clean up with 1200 emery cloth or fine wire wool and then make sure all oil is removed. Old way was boiling the parts in a lye solution. Modern way is to use The dishwasher whilst the dishwasher operator takes the dogs for a walk.

do on a hot cycle so the metal is nicely warmed. Wipe down with acetone and then into the solution and it goes dark blue gray before your eyes.

once its a deep dark colour - not that long. Rinse off the solution and then a coat or two of oil on asap.

 

[Heym SR20]

Or

 

[lochty]

Make sure ALL the grease and oil is gone. Follow instructions and you should get a reasonable finish. I'd use extra fine wire wool rather than wet and dry to prepare though.

 

[enfieldspares]

Remove all grease. This can be by boiling with washing soda solution and then rubbing down with wire wool dipped in methylated spirit. making sure that you hands do not touch the work. These cold blue work best, despite their name "cold" if the workpiece is warm.

This can be by laying the barrel for an hour or so on a radiator or by pouring boiling water down the bore. Or by warming with a naked flame from a gas cooker ring or blowtorch. Even a blowtorch for creme brulee will work. To apply use long even strokes the full length of the workpiece. Allow adequate time to let the stuff work. Then rub off the "muck" with a grease free cottonwaste or rag or cotton wool and water. Then repeat the warming and atc. again.

Remember that hidden grease can ruin the "taking" of the chemical so your wire wool needs to be grease free, your cottonwaste or rag or cotton wool needs to be grease free and as you'll never get them grease free you need not to touch the work with your hands. For gun barrels the best way to handle is two tapered soft wood dowels tapped in one at muzzle, one at breech.m Use a craftknife to make the taper.

Be aware that acetone and/or carbon tetrachloride aren't nice to your skin. And acetone is a fire hazard. But, yes, when I did old school boiling and hot reblacking I did use acetone. You can buy it in two and a half litre glass bottles.

 

[JockStalk]

Thanks folks - good ideas!

 

[enfieldspares]

The only downside to the Phillips stuff if it is similar to the old "Cold Blak" product is that it stinks. My own preference in the cold blue is the light blue paste in the plastic bottles that looks like blue jelly.