Canjur Trigger

[thomas]

Can anyone recommend a gunsmith who would be able to overhaul / fettle a Canjur trigger, the unit is off a FN Mauser 98 action? The rifle currently has a Timney unit fitted, I was hoping to send the Canjur unit off rather than have the hassle of sending the complete rifle.

ATB

T

 

[Sauer90]

Not much point in fettling the trigger without the rifle, sort of like shoeing a horse but leaving the horse at home...

 

[20-250]

Canjar.

 

[Jagare]

I have a Canjar trigger on my Heym-Ruger. The Canjar trigger for the Ruger #1 is quite sought after now. Canjar went out of business after the owner died. Sad because
Canjar were great triggers.

 

[thomas]

I have a Canjar trigger on my Heym-Ruger. The Canjar trigger for the Ruger #1 is quite sort after now. Canjar went out of business after the owner died. Sad because
Canjar were great triggers.

The best trigger I have used by an absolute mile, it appears they are well sought after and respected units.

 

[lillico]

I sent my Howa trigger to Brock and Norris to be tuned, they had a 'slave' unit (which I hope was not a person) which they ran it on after modification.
Maybe they could do the same for your trigger?
They done a REALLY good job, 1 3/4lbs, no creep.

 

[Southern]

The Canjar is a very good trigger, but a bit more difficult to adjust than a Timney, which is an easy DIY job.
But it is not that difficult, and not at all for any real gunsmith.
I had several of them, on a Remington 700 I built, and on a 40X I built.

As others have said, it can be adjusted down to a pretty low pull weight , with no creep, very consistent pull, and will stay that way for ever so long. It is worth keeping, for sure. You may find that just removing the barreled action from the stock, flushing dust and old lubricants from the trigger with something like Rem Clean, and a light oiling, might render the trigger to a performance which suits you just as it is.

 

[brock and norris]

Thomas , worth while you taking a trip to see a very good friend of mine Chris Watts ,at Lucas and Watts ,not a million miles from you and a total gent and a very fine smith indeed , please mention me when you speak yto him and he will go out of his way to help you . yours respectfully mike norris , Brock and Norris

 

[thomas]

Thomas , worth while you taking a trip to see a very good friend of mine Chris Watts ,at Lucas and Watts ,not a million miles from you and a total gent and a very fine smith indeed , please mention me when you speak yto him and he will go out of his way to help you . yours respectfully mike norris , Brock and Norris

Thank you all for the replies.

The trigger per se is absolutely fine, the weight of pull, travel, let off etc are perfect and as originally set up for me, the issue is with the safety. It works but does not feel positive between on / off, there seems to be little resistance when pushed forward / back.

Mike, I am only about 1/2 hour from Grosmont so I will take your advice and contact Chris Watts, thank you.

ATB

T

 

[Klenchblaize]

What's so good about a "set trigger"?

K

 

[Heym SR20]

What's so good about a "set trigger"?

K

With a "normal" trigger for it to be safe you need a reasonable level of sear engagement as well as tension so that the trigger does not release under every day conditions. A lot of safeties just block the trigger lever itself and not the sear which actually holds the firing pin. But this can lead to a trigger that requires a level of force to release it and also one that a bit of movement before it releases. Careful polishing, being careful to maintain correct angles can result in lighter and smoother pull. Many of the older hammer guns from the flintlock era need quite a heavy sear to hold back a hammer - much more so than a lightweight plunger in a bolt action rifle.

A set trigger is a mechanism that provides a much lighter trigger pull, but keeping the heavy pull required to hold back the hammer. With the set trigger you have a tiny lock within the trigger mechanism that only needs a little force to hold it back. When it is released it gives a blow on the main trigger thus firing the gun.

There are many variations two most common are a double set trigger, whereby you pull the back trigger to set the front, or the push to set, where you push the trigger blade forwards to set it. Once set, the trigger just a very light touch to let it go, with minimal force or disturbance on the rifle.

I have set triggers on two rifles and occasionally use them if shooting from a well supported position, but I do find that I don't have the sensitivity to use them reliably - keep finger well off the trigger until sights are aligned and then just rest finger on the trigger and off it goes. A lot of European hunters like them for use in high seats, and have practiced and use them all the time. I had a german hunter with me a few weeks ago and he struggled with my normal trigger.

Personally I prefer a pull weight of 3 to 4 lbs that requires a firm squeeze and that goes off as tighten both hands onto the rifle - I squeeze everything in as the sights are aligned.

Most set triggers are unset when you apply the safety catch.

There is also the release trigger. I have once seen and used one on a trap shotgun. You squeeze the trigger as you say pull and it then goes off as you release your grip when you see the clay - very counter intuitive.

 

[Klenchblaize]

Thanks Heym SR20

Badly worded question on my part. It should have at least read "what's so good about a Canjur set trigger?"

I have one on my 300 Wearherby Magnum and don't rate it in set or unset mode. In fact I don't rate any set trigger and consider them a cock-up just waiting to happen when used in the field.

K