A method I also use, quite therapeutic walking around with a weed slasher, also helps if you grew up watching Erol Flynn films
Crushing Bracken
- Thread starter muddy42
- Start date
I used to cut it with a tractor and mower which is very efficient. I then bought a bracken bruiser tow behind as NE and Wildlife Trust's were more happy paying for me to do it that way. The bruiser works well until you have depleted the plants reserves and it only reaches 18" in height. After that, it stands straight back up after rolling and is quite hard to finish the job.
Wait until the last frond unfurls, then cut and keep that up for about three seasons, that usually does the job. It does depend on the soil type that you are operating on
Wait until the last frond unfurls, then cut and keep that up for about three seasons, that usually does the job. It does depend on the soil type that you are operating on
countrryboy
Well-Known Member
I had a go a couple off weeks ago.
Similar idea to wots been floated about
A flake off an old fashioned iron harrow.
There is a bit of wieght in it, possibly 30kg or so.
But I found the bracken was bouncing up more than I wanted.
Going to have another try on sat but going to take up a 4ft sleeper as some extra wieght.
And that's turning it upside down so loads of flat edge in contact with the ground.
That bracken would be chest height so I thought it would crush and fold over nice.
Depending how far the stalking is from ur house, I'd make ur original idea but take some bits and bobs to adapt it up there.
Some extra ballast, need quite a decent rope too, etc
The farm has actually just bought a proper bracken bruiser so do the hill.
But I didn't want to borrow it before they had used it, plus I'm driving about in an open wood.
If ur handy with a welder and about farm scrap heaps, the roller off a rotavator would be ideal to covert.
I always thought of making a proper 1 when I had my argo and trying to do some bracken bruising contracting.
But the thought of driving about on steep hillsides into 4-6ft bracken and not being able to see wot was in front of me put me off.
Don't think u would be long before u rolled it when u don't know the ground/hills.
Similar idea to wots been floated about
A flake off an old fashioned iron harrow.
There is a bit of wieght in it, possibly 30kg or so.
But I found the bracken was bouncing up more than I wanted.
Going to have another try on sat but going to take up a 4ft sleeper as some extra wieght.
And that's turning it upside down so loads of flat edge in contact with the ground.
That bracken would be chest height so I thought it would crush and fold over nice.
Depending how far the stalking is from ur house, I'd make ur original idea but take some bits and bobs to adapt it up there.
Some extra ballast, need quite a decent rope too, etc
The farm has actually just bought a proper bracken bruiser so do the hill.
But I didn't want to borrow it before they had used it, plus I'm driving about in an open wood.
If ur handy with a welder and about farm scrap heaps, the roller off a rotavator would be ideal to covert.
I always thought of making a proper 1 when I had my argo and trying to do some bracken bruising contracting.
But the thought of driving about on steep hillsides into 4-6ft bracken and not being able to see wot was in front of me put me off.
Don't think u would be long before u rolled it when u don't know the ground/hills.
enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
On my pond we used a weed knife for the underwater weeds. I don't know if such a thing set on a wheeled frame above thick stump height might work on bracken? A weed knife is a big metal letter A. Using 1/8" thick by 1" wide metal strip. Sides about five feet long. The cross bar about four feet wide. A eye at the tip of the A to attach a rope to tow. You could make it wider?
The outer edges of the side were ground with a grinder to make them into a cutting edge. That might cut a ride through the bracken as the A shape uses the slant effect like a sabre or guillotine to give a better slicing cut than can a mere 90 degrees sharp blade which allows any stem to bend and bounce up. The slant means that the stems run along the blade and is cut rather than get knocked down. It might work for bracken as it does for pond weeks...some of which have thick woody stems.
The other possible advantage is to lay out your rope and A cutter then use a winch from a static tractor. . We used also to do that on the pond. Drop the cutter in the water at the bank one side and row the rope tied to it across to a static winch on the other bank and winch the thing across. Or throw a thin line attached to your rope as when throwing a line ship to ship. Using the thin line to bring the rope between winch and cutter. That might solve the slope worries?
The outer edges of the side were ground with a grinder to make them into a cutting edge. That might cut a ride through the bracken as the A shape uses the slant effect like a sabre or guillotine to give a better slicing cut than can a mere 90 degrees sharp blade which allows any stem to bend and bounce up. The slant means that the stems run along the blade and is cut rather than get knocked down. It might work for bracken as it does for pond weeks...some of which have thick woody stems.
The other possible advantage is to lay out your rope and A cutter then use a winch from a static tractor. . We used also to do that on the pond. Drop the cutter in the water at the bank one side and row the rope tied to it across to a static winch on the other bank and winch the thing across. Or throw a thin line attached to your rope as when throwing a line ship to ship. Using the thin line to bring the rope between winch and cutter. That might solve the slope worries?
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Having been a strimmer pilot, on the highways of Hampshire, we would walk the length of the m3 and all other major roads, usually took 4 days for the m3, including travelling to stop start point, setting your brush cutter harness up properly is the trick, the rest is just walking with a swing.
He mentions deep ruts from a forwarder and tree stumps as well as steep paths, not ideal for a mini tractor and flail
shbangsteve
Well-Known Member
Can't you just spray it ?
I think Asulox was banned recently.
You could, but only glyphosate is available to do so, you then kill everything, wiping is another option which is more direct and targeted but a bit more labour intensive depending on equipment. If the area could be fenced off and grazed with cattle it would be almost ideal
Robo flail!!
Works to ridiculous angles, mulches through anything within its capabilities , easy to use and can knock a hell of a stuff down in a day!
downside is the hire cost can be expensive, but works an absolute treat!
im no plant expert, but reading above that this process may need doing over a couple years to really kick it back, this method could work out even more expensive, but an option to look at.
Works to ridiculous angles, mulches through anything within its capabilities , easy to use and can knock a hell of a stuff down in a day!
downside is the hire cost can be expensive, but works an absolute treat!
im no plant expert, but reading above that this process may need doing over a couple years to really kick it back, this method could work out even more expensive, but an option to look at.
Doesn’t that hurt her?
Novel way of clearing bracken....
Phil fox man
Well-Known Member
I made this from an old conveyor roller 90 kg and some angle iron.
Nice idea, I will try that first. I have lots of old gates and this will be quick to make.
Yes! 420 ccs of pure muscle, 4WD, new diff/axle and mud tyres.
I have one, it doesn't like the ruts. Ideally I would smooth them out with a digger. But as with a lot of these suggestions, I have a job and a family and limited time.
As above, the ground is too rough and wet. A tractor would get stuck pretty quickly.
It was. Shame as it worked well. I used to use a mister sprayer which sent great clouds of the stuff, best in a light wind. I think thats also frowned upon now.
they are insanely expensive to own and hire. Maybe in a few years when prices have come down. also as above - rough ground and ruts.
Looks amazing, you are a better welder than me!
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I have enough to be getting on with. Case closed.
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