DIY Gunsmithing query

[BwchDanas]

Hi folks, having been within a paycheck of dismissing my Midland 308 as a "tomato stake" and chopping it in for a new Howa, I have decided to do a bit of 'smithing to try to sort it out. The problem is that it groups like a 12 bore and detailed inspection has shown that the "recoil pin" (a la Mauser) has been pushed back in the woodwork, so much so that there is visible ovality in the screwholes on the outside of the stock. This has caused the action to move back with it, riding up slightly at the rear and consequently the barrel bears down on the wood at the front.

I have remounted the action with some thin packing and this has regained the clearance between barrel and woodwork, a shooting test should show whether this has save the rifle from the angle grinder in the sky.

My question is, is the packing solution likely to work in the longer term, and if not, what will work? I have considered removing the recoil pin and attempting to stabilise the wood behind it then glass bedding the action properly. Of course this is all subject to the shooting test showing that this was the problem, I suspect it will, the bore looks good and the is no ther obvious problem.

 

[Heym SR20]

Rather than just shimming it, which suggest is just raising the action up a wee bit, I would do as you think and rebed the recoil pin. If the recoil lug is not tight agaist this it will soon batter itself apart again.

In the same vein if you are going to be doing some work on the rifle you may as well take out a bit of wood around the recoil lug, the tang of the action and the floor plate and glass bed it properly. There was a very good posting on the forum a few months ago on how to do this properly. It won't cost you much other than a couple of evenings work. If it works then saves the cost of a new rifle.

Whilst you are about it make sure all scope mounts etc are really tight and firm, give the bore a really good clean to remove all the copper fouling and check the crown of the muzzle is still good.

 

[Ronin]

The shims will last half an hour or so's use before they become redundant, shrink, expand or come loose.

The only solution is to insert pillars and then bed the action (i.e a full pillar bedding job)


The Midland (like other Mauser 98 variants) needs to be properly bedded to work best.

Wether its worth spending 200+ on a rifle of this vintage is another question.

But You could insert a "pillar" or devcon instead yourself and see how it does.


I think I prefer the Midland over the Howa..........

 

[Muir]

So get some glass bedding compund and bed it. If it stil doesn't shoot, look elsewhere for the problem. Sounds like bedding to me, though. ~Muir

 

[BwchDanas]

Cheers for the replies people.

Despite the way I worded the question, i knew that the shim was not a long term solution, but a short term (and free! ) way of trying to diegnose the problem. If the shim lasts long enough to fire a decent group it should confirm that it's worth devoting time and a bit of money to sorting the rifle properly.

I have been doing some research on DIY bedding and it seems that it's not rocket science but does need plenty of care taken and lots of preparation to get it right.

As to pillar bedding, I think I know what it entails, but need clarification, I think the "pillars" are Alu tubes for the action screws to go through, firmly bedded into the woodwork.

The issue I have is that my Mauser 98 action has the recoil pin through the stock, and it's that moving back that has caused the problem in the first place. Would I be better off, removing a chunk of wood from behing the pin so that a decent amount of bedding compound will go in there, so that, effectively I will be bedding both the pin and the action?

Cheers for the help so far

 

[Muir]

Forget pillar bedding. It's not of any practical use in this case. Don't worry about the cross-bolt. In a 308 that is properly glass bedded it becomes moot. Get some glass, follow the instructions, and your rifle will stop moving around. I would start with the recoil lug an the tang area to start. Remember to place a strip of cellophane tape around the rear end of the tang to provide some clearance rearward. Use lots of release agent. Remember that if you do it in stages beginning with the recoil lug an tang, you can stop or proceed as desired. It's not too difficult. I have done hundreds of bedding jobs. Just follow the instructions included with the glass kit and you'll do fine.~Muir

 

[BwchDanas]

Cheers Muir, you make it sound so easy

You know what's coming next

Can you recommend a suitable kit?

 

[mereside]

i found this on you tube but there is a whole list that might explain abit better


hope this helps

 

[Muir]

Cheers Muir, you make it sound so easy

You know what's coming next

Can you recommend a suitable kit?

I like Accraglass Gel from Brownells in the States. I think MidwayUk would carry it. If not, any reputable kit will do. Check out MidwayUK under "Gunsmithing" and see what they have.

The first time is a little nerve wracking but after that you'll know what to expect.~Muir

A few minutes later...

I checked Midway UK. No Accraglass but they offer the kits from Score High gunsmithing. I know the owner of this outfit (we were both gunsmiths in New Mexico) and they don't make junk. Try them.~Muir

 

[BwchDanas]

Thanks, I see the 4oz kit is about 20 quid, seems pretty reasonable, will 4oz be enough for 1 rifle?

Edited to add; Stupid question, why would they sell a kit that wasn't enough to do a rifle

 

[Muir]

You will find that it takes far less then you'd think! The first rifle I did had the original (very liquid) accra glass gushing out everywhere when I set the metal into the stock. ~Muir

 

[kuwinda]

I've used Acraglass to bed a couple of rifles and found it very good.

You do need to be fairly particular about polishing up the hidden parts of the action (to make sure it comes out again!) and make sure to use plenty of release agent but otherwise it seems to do a good job - got mine from Sportsman if I recall.

I must confess to going a bit over the top the first time - made up steel pillars about 15mm diameter and epoxied these in (taking a 15mm bit to your stock fairly makes you sweat ) and then bedded both the bottom plate and the action seperately. This on a Sako I rebarreled from 375H&H to 264WM. It shoots fine - in fact its the only rifle I have owned that has never missed (touching wood)

The second rifle I bedded was another rebarrel to 7mm08. I only bedded the action this time (maybe the novelty was wearing thin) - but the first target after shooting in the barrel saw 5 shots in one hole.