Driven game scope mount

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A-13

Well-Known Member
Hi all

I was hoping someone could chime in on the following :
I’m mounting a 1-6x24 for driven game on my bolt action rifle and was wondering if a low or extra low mount would interfere with rifle operation? I currently have a pic-rail + 50mm objective scope on there ( bought an allround scope but turns out I’ll be doing more driven game hunts than static ones…) and my cheek- weld with these ring hight is just off of ideal. I was going to buy the scope in the shop and have it mounted there but doing it myself will save me about 250 £ in price difference and petrol… anyone here with a similar driven game setup that could chime in?

Kind regards

A.
 
Try to estimate it with using your current setup. Bolt clearance and eyepiece size are main considerations. If you use throw lever, that will enlarge the effective eyepiece diameter, and also have to take lever movement into account. Also remember that your fingers must fit between bolt knob and eyepiece...

I'd try to fabricate some kind of cheekpiece (cardboard etc. is fine) to find out how much lower the install height is for decent weld. Then use pics and scope measurements to judge whether the new scope will fit the desired height rings. Alternatively you could fit a stock pack and use existing rings (keep mag, extra rounds and other essentials in the pack).

You could also tell what make and model your rifle and the scope you're buying are. Maybe provide a pic of current setup, to see how you prefer to mount a scope (forward/aft). The eyepieces are quite large in many current driven scopes. Even larger than allround / twilight scopes.
 
It won't be an issue, because the different position between scopes, vs bolt position is tiny, and scope manufacturers will make sure they fit.

I have a Blaser R8, and switch between 1-8 x 24, & 2.3-18 x 56
 
Absolutely key is good cheek weld and handling. With driven boar, think shotgun mount - you are not taking a careful aim at a stationary target, instead you taking a quick shot at a moving target. Often your opportunity is the time it takes for a pig to cross a gap in the trees.

Find a small target - look at it. Close your eyes, mount rifle - sights should be on the target.

Forget all the bollox about fast reloads etc. Mostly you will just get time for a single shot - make that count.

Mostly keep the mounts as low as you can - limitation is usually the bolt handle clearing the eyepiece.

And get some practice shooting at moving targets.
 
I have added about 10mm with a rubber comb on my tikka with a standard height Warne mount. You cant get the perfect height and chiek weld for shooting standing and for shooting of a backpack the same time if you dont have an adjustable comb.

Adjustable cheek rest from Kalix Teknik AB, home of innovations

Hi and welcome to our place in space. Manufacturer of innovative products for the hunting industries.
www.kalixteknik.com www.kalixteknik.com
 
Lateral said:
It won't be an issue, because the different position between scopes, vs bolt position is tiny, and scope manufacturers will make sure they fit.

I have a Blaser R8, and switch between 1-8 x 24, & 2.3-18 x 56
Click to expand...
With a turn up bolt handle the height matters more
 
Lateral said:
Regardless, it won't be an issue, just look at the current space between the bolt, & the scope. If anything, lowering the scope will most likely increase the clearance to the bolt.
Click to expand...
Or get so low so you scratch your fingers against the scope and brass hits the turret and jump back.
 
Lateral said:
It won't be an issue
Click to expand...
Yes it will be an issue, depending on setup.

Personally, T3 with Warne QD and Leica Fortis 1-6x. I have 2mm clearance between top of rail and throw lever, Warne are high (15TLM, 0.570" / 14.5mm between scope tube and top of rail).
 
Hi all, thanks for the tips!

The rifle is a sauer 100, so 60 degree bolt lift, nothing to worry there, currently i have a 50mm objective on what I believe to be medium rings ( bought as is, ring height is about 8-10mm as far as I can distinguish) and ocular to bolt is right at 1cm. I do have a seperate full length pic-rail on it . I THINK i can get away with lower mounts. I might just buy the scope, test it with the current rings, measure them properly, and order others if necessairy. I’m passing by the importer of sauer in a few days, might jump in and ask them since they would have mounted 100’s of these. @KimE I’ve been thinking about getting that, but have a hard time finding it, Germany is next door. Ut they won’t sell out of country and no dealer anywhere else. I did find it on a Finnish site I believe. As I have plenty of costs this year (new rifle for fox and roe) that will be a next-year project😅
 
A-13 said:
Hi all, thanks for the tips!

The rifle is a sauer 100, so 60 degree bolt lift, nothing to worry there, currently i have a 50mm objective on what I believe to be medium rings ( bought as is, ring height is about 8-10mm as far as I can distinguish) and ocular to bolt is right at 1cm. I do have a seperate full length pic-rail on it . I THINK i can get away with lower mounts. I might just buy the scope, test it with the current rings, measure them properly, and order others if necessairy. I’m passing by the importer of sauer in a few days, might jump in and ask them since they would have mounted 100’s of these. @KimE I’ve been thinking about getting that, but have a hard time finding it, Germany is next door. Ut they won’t sell out of country and no dealer anywhere else. I did find it on a Finnish site I believe. As I have plenty of costs this year (new rifle for fox and roe) that will be a next-year project😅
Click to expand...
My suggestion, given that you have a picatinny rail, will be to have each scope in its own set of rings. That way you easily swap them back and forth, and you just an appropriate Allen key etc.

If you are travelling I would always take both so that you have a spare ready zeroed etc. You should find that swapping will have little change in point of impact. Perhaps at 200m there will be a shift in zero, but at the sorts of ranges boar are hunted at.

If you are going boar hunting take bigger scope as well - you may well get an opportunity to sit up at night under the moon in a highseat.

Going back to the driven scope. Its a 30mm tube so centre of the scope will be at the same height as your current scope with current rings. Only you know if that is comfortable or not.

On a driven scope, reticle is quite important as you will often be in woodland and fine reticles are easily lost. Red dots are sort of OK, provided you don’t have any eye issues - but can be a little hard picking up a red dot against red / brown leaf litter and autumnal leaves.

Personally a good German No 4 type reticle with good thick posts just stands out against all sorts of backgrounds. The horizontal post - one on the bum, one on the snout and bring the vertical in line with the ear / eye and keep swinging as you squeeze trigger. If its further away then its the nose. Key is starting behind and swinging through.
 
Unless you really need a scope for magnification or a brighter image in low light, consider a red dot such as an Aimpoint Acro. They are very fast to acquire the target, very forgiving re head position, and entirely parallax free. If shooting at 100m or less, and if your general eyesight is good, they are faster than a scope, and offer enough precision (albeit less than a scope) to make good killing shots. They also make it easier to remain aware of what else is going on, whether that means identifying a new target or spotting a dog or beater.
 
Heym SR20 said:
My suggestion, given that you have a picatinny rail, will be to have each scope in its own set of rings. That way you easily swap them back and forth, and you just an appropriate Allen key etc.

If you are travelling I would always take both so that you have a spare ready zeroed etc. You should find that swapping will have little change in point of impact. Perhaps at 200m there will be a shift in zero, but at the sorts of ranges boar are hunted at.

If you are going boar hunting take bigger scope as well - you may well get an opportunity to sit up at night under the moon in a highseat.

Going back to the driven scope. Its a 30mm tube so centre of the scope will be at the same height as your current scope with current rings. Only you know if that is comfortable or not.

On a driven scope, reticle is quite important as you will often be in woodland and fine reticles are easily lost. Red dots are sort of OK, provided you don’t have any eye issues - but can be a little hard picking up a red dot against red / brown leaf litter and autumnal leaves.

Personally a good German No 4 type reticle with good thick posts just stands out against all sorts of backgrounds. The horizontal post - one on the bum, one on the snout and bring the vertical in line with the ear / eye and keep swinging as you squeeze trigger. If its further away then its the nose. Key is starting behind and swinging through.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your suggestions! As this year is quite costly the current scope will be going on a new rifle untill I can decide what scope I want on there/ can afford next year😅. It will only be driven hunt (fellow hunter on my lease to bring 5 hunters to every drive on another lease he has so I get to go for free in exchange for some help butchering etc.) I was looking into a more budget scope for the other rifle like the gpo’s but I’m having trouble to find real world reviews, so the steiner will live on that one for now. I do intend for it to go back on the sauer eventually.
 
Mr. Gain said:
Unless you really need a scope for magnification or a brighter image in low light, consider a red dot such as an Aimpoint Acro. They are very fast to acquire the target, very forgiving re head position, and entirely parallax free. If shooting at 100m or less, and if your general eyesight is good, they are faster than a scope, and offer enough precision (albeit less than a scope) to make good killing shots. They also make it easier to remain aware of what else is going on, whether that means identifying a new target or spotting a dog or beater.
Click to expand...
I was lucky enough to be able to try both last season on a hunt. Personally I prefered the low power scope, safety is key and the lay of the land where I’m lucky enough to hunt does not allow any shots near the beaters or dogs. I use electronic headphones and usually can hear the beaters way before the others.The 1-6 will also allow me to use it for roe deer and fox in my own lease soon (thick forest with small fields, distances up to 100 max)
 
A-13 said:
Thank you for your suggestions! As this year is quite costly the current scope will be going on a new rifle untill I can decide what scope I want on there/ can afford next year😅. It will only be driven hunt (fellow hunter on my lease to bring 5 hunters to every drive on another lease he has so I get to go for free in exchange for some help butchering etc.) I was looking into a more budget scope for the other rifle like the gpo’s but I’m having trouble to find real world reviews, so the steiner will live on that one for now. I do intend for it to go back on the sauer eventually.
Click to expand...
What’s the min magnification. I shot my first running boar targets, then a running boar and subsequently a few running deer with a 6x42.

My 7x57 has 2.5 -10 x42 and would happily use that.
 
I have three driven boar scopes. Two for the Mauser M03 a both mounted in the low Mauser mounts and one mounted on my double rifle that's wearing claw mounts.
The Mauser has a adjustable comb that brings the scope to exact the right position when I shoulder the rifle.
My double rifle has a straight hand stock and mounts perfectly,much to my suprise when I first tried it.
Mount the rifle with your eyes closed. Open your eyes, both,and you will see how far out of kilter your eyes are in relation to your scope. Then you can adjust the comb to suit.
 
Heym SR20 said:
What’s the min magnification. I shot my first running boar targets, then a running boar and subsequently a few running deer with a 6x42.

My 7x57 has 2.5 -10 x42 and would happily use that.
Click to expand...
It is a 2-10x50. I have tried it last year and found that it was good starting at 30-40m but after trying the dedicated driven hunt scope of my companion I was sold. Great fov, very auick to pick up target,… I did like his scope (actually a tactical lpvo with horseshoe reticle )but finding a decent one is hard at normal prices. So a regular nr 4 with illumination is the next best thing I guess. I’m getting a kite b6.
 
Just got the measurement chart in for the new scope, took some measurements, I can move the scope down 1 or 2mm before the eyebell hits the rail. Current rings are 7mmBH so 6 should be good. I guess I’ll be installing an adjustable cheekpiece next year 😅
 
KimE said:
I have added about 10mm with a rubber comb on my tikka with a standard height Warne mount. You cant get the perfect height and chiek weld for shooting standing and for shooting of a backpack the same time if you dont have an adjustable comb.

Adjustable cheek rest from Kalix Teknik AB, home of innovations

Hi and welcome to our place in space. Manufacturer of innovative products for the hunting industries.
www.kalixteknik.com www.kalixteknik.com
Click to expand...
Would you mind sharing how/ what rubber comb you used and should you have a picture it would be greatly appreciated! I don’t mind a little diy to get me by for now.
 
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