Full stock rifle shifting POI
- Thread starter WildBoarHunter
- Start date
You and I both would love to hear that.
Bo Diddley
Well-Known Member
Pic 5 and the slight round indentation is surely how the bolt face has been machined.. unless I'm missing something 
WildBoarHunter
Well-Known Member
Found a pic of another Steyr bolt head on an auction site and it appears it doesn't have the round indentation.Pic 5 and the slight round indentation is surely how the bolt face has been machined.. unless I'm missing something
If shooting off sticks get the supporting cradle (V) well behind the forend’s sling swivel. The further towards the receiver the less upward stock to barrel pressure. Do also experiment from the bench with hand support beneath the stock as already suggested.
Do the latter before getting stuck into playing with stock and forend tip contact etc.
K
Do the latter before getting stuck into playing with stock and forend tip contact etc.
K
WildBoarHunter
Well-Known Member
I have read a lot about these rifles on german hunting forums and it turns out I'm not the only one with accuracy issuses. There apparently is a known issue with these early luxus models (besides forend, which in any case should not be touching the barrel). It's got something to do with case ejection opening beeing too large and spoiling the harmonics between barrel and system. Only luxus model was affected not models M, S, SL, L... as these had smaller ejection openings. Slightly later luxus models apparently also got smaller case ejection openings and that took care of the accuracy issues.
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Forget all the mention of free floating barrels. Many stutzens were built with full contact of the forend and the barrel. Indeed many have really positive pressure applied to the barrel by the forend.
And a barrel that has a full contact forend needs to be shot properly with the forehand doing what it is meant to do. That is holding the forend and controlling the recoil.
In the UK we have forgotten how to shoot rifles properly. Now everybody wants to shoot with a heavy barrel, low recoil using a bipod, sticks, or tripods. These work fine on a 10lb tactical sniper rifle.
These techniques don’t work on lightweight rifle that has a reasonable level of recoil.
And lightweight rifles with thin skinny barrels rarely shoot well under rapid fire. Thin barrels warp as they heat up.
This is really of no consequence in a hunting rifle. First shot counts, and first shot should shoot to point of aim.
When you shoot a group, wait a good five minutes between shots. It will likely shoot all shots to point of aim.
And read this
And a barrel that has a full contact forend needs to be shot properly with the forehand doing what it is meant to do. That is holding the forend and controlling the recoil.
In the UK we have forgotten how to shoot rifles properly. Now everybody wants to shoot with a heavy barrel, low recoil using a bipod, sticks, or tripods. These work fine on a 10lb tactical sniper rifle.
These techniques don’t work on lightweight rifle that has a reasonable level of recoil.
And lightweight rifles with thin skinny barrels rarely shoot well under rapid fire. Thin barrels warp as they heat up.
This is really of no consequence in a hunting rifle. First shot counts, and first shot should shoot to point of aim.
When you shoot a group, wait a good five minutes between shots. It will likely shoot all shots to point of aim.
And read this
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
there are several things going on here.
1. case head separation is likely due to you undersizing brass
2. indented rim on bolt face is factory made, you see the same with BRNO ZG47 bolts
3. your forend has moved indeed, downwards and to the right. This is evident when looking at the muzzle metal clip, you can see on the bluing that it used to sit up higher on the barrel, and the rightwards movement in the stock is causing it to rub on the RHS of the stock.
As said, shoot it with the iron sights at 50yds and see how it groups, just to rule out mounts/rings/scope issues firstly. use good factory ammo or quality brass reloaded without undersizing it, perhaps just neck size it.
You may need to have the forend bent back by heating it with pure linseed oil, like you bend a stock for cast on/off; this to be done correctly will require the expertise of a very good gunsmith/gunmaker to get it back to where it should be.
1. case head separation is likely due to you undersizing brass
2. indented rim on bolt face is factory made, you see the same with BRNO ZG47 bolts
3. your forend has moved indeed, downwards and to the right. This is evident when looking at the muzzle metal clip, you can see on the bluing that it used to sit up higher on the barrel, and the rightwards movement in the stock is causing it to rub on the RHS of the stock.
As said, shoot it with the iron sights at 50yds and see how it groups, just to rule out mounts/rings/scope issues firstly. use good factory ammo or quality brass reloaded without undersizing it, perhaps just neck size it.
You may need to have the forend bent back by heating it with pure linseed oil, like you bend a stock for cast on/off; this to be done correctly will require the expertise of a very good gunsmith/gunmaker to get it back to where it should be.
WildBoarHunter
Well-Known Member
I've allways shot the Steyr from a bench rest, never holding the forend. But on the other hand I allways did the same with my R8 and never had a flyer in my life on that rifle. So I never figured it out that the bench rest could be the culprit for the Steyrs bad shooting.
Dunwaters
Well-Known Member
It looks like someone has tried to fix a problem without defining it.
Take that bedding crap out of the fore end in the 2 areas you’ve highlighted, set yourself up with your hand rested on the front bag and the barrel rested in your palm or a sand bag and try again.
Don‘t put pressure on the fore end. It’s a long, skinny piece of wood to begin with and the barrel channel, plus the cut outs under the barrel to reduce weight remove a lot of the strength.
That skinny barrel will heat up fast, 3 shots max and give it time to cool.
Its a wisp, a wand, It was designed as a gentleman’s stalking rifle, not a contractors tool, way back in the day when light weight, elegance, ergonomics, engineering and design were blended to produce a functional piece of art.
You’ll not see its likes today unless you pay dearly for the privilege.
Its gorgeous.
If you take that stock off and give the fore end a few wiggles you’ll see what I mean, it’s about as stable as a strand of spaghetti.
I suspect that that rifle will shoot quite well, but that left hand stock and right hand action plus the proprietary cartridge makes it a very specialised toy.
Well wear.
Dunwaters
Well-Known Member
Pictures 3 and 4 look to be perfectly normal, your barrel is floating, the metal fore end tip just clips around the barrel and prevents the stock from wiggling around, the stock is not warped.
Stutzens are tricky to shoot well, you need to hold the fore end without torquing it.
Stutzens are tricky to shoot well, you need to hold the fore end without torquing it.
Dunwaters
Well-Known Member
That looks like your problem right there. Set the rifle up with something like a coat cushioning the fore end from the rest, you want an extended contact with the wood with no single pressure point like you’d get with a bipod.
WildBoarHunter
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for all your replys. I will try to hold the rifle correctly when shooting next time and will post the results.
Did you resolve the issue?…
Had a lot of trouble with a BSA Stutzen. Action screw points had been compressed due to over tightening, forend pressure point was not set correctly.
Sorted by adding shims to the action screws so they did up properly, bedded the action and re set the pressure point on the forend. Shot well after that.
It was a 270 20inch barrel so you had to hold it propoerly or you knew about it!
My guess is the stock, action needs attention.
Sorted by adding shims to the action screws so they did up properly, bedded the action and re set the pressure point on the forend. Shot well after that.
It was a 270 20inch barrel so you had to hold it propoerly or you knew about it!
My guess is the stock, action needs attention.
deeangeo
Well-Known Member
Not an un-known issue with later 1990 era Mannlicher stutzens.
Possible causes as previously stated by others… a) remove barrel end cap & check barrel for contact witness marks.
b) slide a business card between barrel & stock all the way to the action & check it slides freely without tightness.
c) if tight in any area, check the position, remove barrel/action from stock & lightly sand away some wood … only enough to allow a card to slide freely the complete length of barrel when reassembled.
I solved this issue this way & ended up with a very accurate Mannlicher stutzen
Be sure when you re-assemble to tighten action bolts to the correct torque
Possible causes as previously stated by others… a) remove barrel end cap & check barrel for contact witness marks.
b) slide a business card between barrel & stock all the way to the action & check it slides freely without tightness.
c) if tight in any area, check the position, remove barrel/action from stock & lightly sand away some wood … only enough to allow a card to slide freely the complete length of barrel when reassembled.
I solved this issue this way & ended up with a very accurate Mannlicher stutzen
Be sure when you re-assemble to tighten action bolts to the correct torque
Its easy hunt with the R8, a skinny stocked and barreled full stock rifle will have a larger spread even if you get it to shoot as it should.
WildBoarHunter
Well-Known Member
I had the rifle looked at by a competent gunsmith. He did some minor alterations to the stock as it was slightly touching the barrel at one point about 10 cm back from the muzzle. He did not alter the metal muzzle cap and it is still touching the barrel on both sides. These are the groups he managed to make with RWS Evolution Green 6 g ammo. I did not try to shoot the rifle myself after that so I'm not sure how consistently the rifle now groups.
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