HMR zero range

[SimpleSimon]

Hello all,

Long story short I bought a 17HMR for rabbit/vermin control a long while ago, subsequently put it in my cabinet and haven't touched it since.
I'm now able to get out with the rifle and I was hoping the collective wisdom of the SD could tell me what's a useful range to zero at that gives effective "point and shoot" usability.

 

[zambezi]

With my rifle using 17gr V-Max, it is bang on between 40m and about 110m. I.e. rabbit headshots with confidence.

 

[Cottis]

Zero at 100yds, point and shoot from 20-120yds.

 

[Tony Morgan]

it is bang on between 40m and about 110m.

But what is it zeroed at?
Very useful trajectory chart with drop table showing zeros from 100 to 200 yds at www.VarmintAl.com

 

[Hulse]

Zero at 100m it’s a flat round from around 30

 

[zambezi]

But what is it zeroed at?

100m

I thought that would be self evident - if it is flattish between the two distances I stated [40m, 100m], those two distances are the two points in the parabola where it punches the absolute bull

The website you quote has a graphic that mirrors my experience for the 17gr V-Max. [red line below]

 

[Tony Morgan]

I thought that would be self evident - if it is flattish between the two distances I stated [40m, 100m], those two distances are the two points in the parabola where it punches the absolute bull

The OP asked a simple question......

 

[DVS1]

I zero at 50m and I'm good from 20m to 120m using 20gr rounds

 

[wully1234]

Mines for my 1517 , 17gr vmax.. (Mil) (Metres)

 

[zambezi]

useful range to zero at that gives effective "point and shoot" usability.

That part has user dependencies.

If you are just looking to reduce vermin numbers [not eat what you shoot], body shots are fine. So your target area is larger. There is a good thread on MRD which explains how your target size dictates your point and shoot distance.

Definition of the MRD (Most Recommended Distance)

Hello, We all know that MRD corresponds to zeroing a rifle so that at 100 yads the impact is 1.5 inches upper than the sighting point. (in metric 4cm at 100meters) This corresponds for bullets with an average of 2400 or 2500 fps to the summit of the parabolic trajectory (in metric 750m/s) But...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

 

[tommee]

Zero at 55 and flat out to 120, works for me

 

[Woodenbeam]

From there dark recesses somewhere in the dull matter - 43yrds has been spouted previously..............

That’s a convenient distance for me to zero at & it seems to work. Good for those running around your feet & out to 100+

 

[DVS1]

Good for those running around your feet & out to 100+

You have shooting rights at Rorke's Drift!?!?!

 

[Woodenbeam]

Armageddon is a descriptive word that comes to mind - lamping rabbits works as an effective pest control and is a bloody good crack. Ground version of a good day on the pigeons

 

[badbob]

You can Zero initially at 40 yards if you are short of a long range. fine tune at 100 if you can.

 

[Rusty Gate]

Hello all,

Long story short I bought a 17HMR for rabbit/vermin control a long while ago, subsequently put it in my cabinet and haven't touched it since.
I'm now able to get out with the rifle and I was hoping the collective wisdom of the SD could tell me what's a useful range to zero at that gives effective "point and shoot" usability.

125m

 

[SimpleSimon]

So the consensus is... That there isn't one! Looks from the charts people have shared that there really is little variance +/- zero over quite a broad range. So I suppose I'll zero at whatever is a convenient distance thay falls somewhere in the middle of where I expect to be shooting most!

 

[Cottis]

So the consensus is... That there isn't one! Looks from the charts people have shared that there really is little variance +/- zero over quite a broad range. So I suppose I'll zero at whatever is a convenient distance thay falls somewhere in the middle of where I expect to be shooting most!

Zero it at 100yards and its MPBR will be 20-120yds which also accomodates variances in quality of ammunition.

I have taken a quick screen shot of Strelock to show you. Below 20yds and it will be marginally too low to be absolutely bang on and the same beyond 120yds. Both distances would require a slight hold which is not why the HMR is used. Everything between these ranges when zeroed properly at 100yds will be point and shoot.

 

[zambezi]

So the consensus is... That there isn't one!

I see broad consensus of a flattish trajectory between 40m and 100m, so not sure what you mean.

I'll zero at whatever is a convenient distance thay falls somewhere in the middle of where I expect to be shooting most!

Once again, if you mean you are going to zero anywhere between 40m and 120m, you will probably have a point and shoot solution between those points for a 2.5" target, yes.

However, if "whatever is a convenient distance" means 200m, note that the 2500fps projectile has started to fall off a cliff about there [look at the blue curve]. I.e. zero'd at 200m, does not make it a point and shoot solution at any range except 200m.

 

[DVS1]

The thing you should ask yourself is what is your max range for accuracy? If your hmr one holes at 90m but opens up like a scatter gun at 100m then surely your max range is 90-95m.

Once you know what your rifle & your capabilities are then you can make a better choice.

My hmr made a 47mm group at 200m...but that was on steel and I'd not desire to try a rabbit at that range, I limit myself to 150m, that way I have a more ethical probability of a kill shot.