Lead or copper for new barrel break in?
- Thread starter Covert
- Start date
Sako barrels are (were) cold hammer forged so shouldn't need shooting in like cut rifled barrels. But, if you want to do it then I'd use the cheapest lead cored ammo you can find - or better still if you have some odds & ends left over use them.
CerebralDistortion
Well-Known Member
This.
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
I would use up old stocks of bullets for barrel break in. If you don’t have any such, I would buy a box of PPU FMJ or other low cost ammo and do a barrel break in alongside getting scope set up and comfortable. Its all very well setting up the scope on the bench, but you really only know its correct once you have fired a few shots. It also takes time to become familiar with how the rifle shoots, trigger breaks etc.
Take your time, cleaning the barrel between shots and checking that everything is good and tight.
Why do this with expensive ammo?
Once happy then rezero with your expensive hunting ammo. Generally it won’t be that far off unless recoil levels are very different. Worth noting how the cheap ammo compares to expensive for future reference.
And don’t forget to always have appropriate spanners, torx, allen keys with you when zeroing.
After shooting a few rounds, put your finger on scope base, hold rifle steady and try and shake the scope. If there is any movement you will feel the vibrations with your finger - may not be visible movement but if you feel it then its moving.
Take your time, cleaning the barrel between shots and checking that everything is good and tight.
Why do this with expensive ammo?
Once happy then rezero with your expensive hunting ammo. Generally it won’t be that far off unless recoil levels are very different. Worth noting how the cheap ammo compares to expensive for future reference.
And don’t forget to always have appropriate spanners, torx, allen keys with you when zeroing.
After shooting a few rounds, put your finger on scope base, hold rifle steady and try and shake the scope. If there is any movement you will feel the vibrations with your finger - may not be visible movement but if you feel it then its moving.
Agree with all of the above.
Rifle is not mine, was asked my opinion which was use lead ammo to check everything is tight etc, clean, sight in , clean , find out what non lead ammo it will shoot then lastly sight in with chosen brand . Cleaning between each batch.
Rifle is not mine, was asked my opinion which was use lead ammo to check everything is tight etc, clean, sight in , clean , find out what non lead ammo it will shoot then lastly sight in with chosen brand . Cleaning between each batch.
Don't bother wasting good ammo. Your 5 -10 shots to zero will be all you need. My tikka got cleaned when I first got it, zeroed, went out and shot stuff with it. Enjoy
This ^^^^
Two new semi custom rifles, I took them too the range and shot them, I don't do break in. They now both shoot better than I do, but I'm a stalker not a target shooter.
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
No harm in practicing while zeroing etc.
I have never nor would I follow a break in procedure.
Grab the odds you have (assuming it's a calibre you've owned before) or ask some stalking friends if they have stuff they no longer use and want to get rid of. Most of us have a few part boxes of ammo we no longer use and would be willing to part with to free up an ammo allowance.
Then use this ammo to zero in, shoot off hand, shoot from 200m just get some trigger time.
Then either test or zero your chosen ammo and you're done.
If you've got a load of part boxes of ammo your rifle didn't like or you don't like them find someone in your shoes with a new rifle and pay it forwards.
I have never nor would I follow a break in procedure.
Grab the odds you have (assuming it's a calibre you've owned before) or ask some stalking friends if they have stuff they no longer use and want to get rid of. Most of us have a few part boxes of ammo we no longer use and would be willing to part with to free up an ammo allowance.
Then use this ammo to zero in, shoot off hand, shoot from 200m just get some trigger time.
Then either test or zero your chosen ammo and you're done.
If you've got a load of part boxes of ammo your rifle didn't like or you don't like them find someone in your shoes with a new rifle and pay it forwards.
Shoot one, clean it x10
Shoot three, clean it x4
Then zero it with your chosen ammunition, the stuff you stick up it to break it in is academic so I’d go whatever is available cheap.
Shoot three, clean it x4
Then zero it with your chosen ammunition, the stuff you stick up it to break it in is academic so I’d go whatever is available cheap.
Or you could buy some of this stuff?
FinalFinish® & FinalFinish® TMS Loaded Ammo
By using David Tubb's FinalFinish & FinalFinish TMS Loaded Ammo, you will experience better accuracy, reduced fouling and easier barrel clean up.
www.davidtubb.com
JCS
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
I don’t think any harm is done at all with any machine in breaking it in gently. With a brand new out of the box rifle, you have to mount a scope and zero it.
What harm does shooting it slowly and cleaning between shots do?
When putting on a new scope / mounts you will shoot half a dozen rounds. You might get lucky with two or three, but you need to check that it groups with your chosen ammo.
It also pays to fully load the magazine and check that it does not fall out or open under recoil.
You are not waisting in do all of the above. Especially if you clean between rounds and let it all work in.
Just the same with a car, truck or any other engine. Yes modern engines are built to finer tolerances as those of old, but taking it a little easy for the first few thousand miles, and even in daily use letting it warm up before really giving it the beans and letting it cool down really pays off in longevity of the components.
Running probably makes no difference for the first few thousand rounds, or with a car the first 70 or 100,000 miles. The reward comes later in life when the barrel still gives good accuracy after several thousand rounds with no sign of needing a barrel change or the car is going strong after 150,000 or 170,000 miles with just normal servicing and is giving pretty much free motoring.
What harm does shooting it slowly and cleaning between shots do?
When putting on a new scope / mounts you will shoot half a dozen rounds. You might get lucky with two or three, but you need to check that it groups with your chosen ammo.
It also pays to fully load the magazine and check that it does not fall out or open under recoil.
You are not waisting in do all of the above. Especially if you clean between rounds and let it all work in.
Just the same with a car, truck or any other engine. Yes modern engines are built to finer tolerances as those of old, but taking it a little easy for the first few thousand miles, and even in daily use letting it warm up before really giving it the beans and letting it cool down really pays off in longevity of the components.
Running probably makes no difference for the first few thousand rounds, or with a car the first 70 or 100,000 miles. The reward comes later in life when the barrel still gives good accuracy after several thousand rounds with no sign of needing a barrel change or the car is going strong after 150,000 or 170,000 miles with just normal servicing and is giving pretty much free motoring.
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