Pigeon Shooting Novice

Willowthewhisk

Well-Known Member
Into my game and clay shooting but fancy doing a bit more on pigeons, I have a large permission on a mates farm and roost shoot regularly but have no idea about hides/decoys etc! What do I need as a basic set up and any pointers would be helpful! Cheers
 
No better decoy than frozen dead birds. Leave them enough room to land in pattern. I've not been decoying for years but used to have success with flapper more than a magnet, but anything that puts movement in pattern will help. Also I had one that mounted dead bird and you could clip wings up as though just landing, tail spread. Keep still until last minute, don't be in & out hide too much.
 
What do I need as a basic set up and any pointers would be helpful! Cheers
For a basic setup all you need is a few decoys , net and hidepoles , this will get you started.

Then there are magnets , flappers, bouncers etc but these are not essential.

Main thing is you need to be where the pigeons want to be , no point in setting up at one end of the field and they are wanting to be at other end , a bit reconnaissance really helps.

Also try and let them commit before shooting, don't try silly long shots.
 
Just keep adding what you shoot to the decoy pattern, you really don't need dozens of decoys to get going. As stated above - find where the birds are first before setting up.
 
Get hold of Archie Coates pigeon shooting books. Read multiple times. I think Will Garfitt may have published a good book. I never liked John Batley despite him being taught by Archie Coates. Field craft is critical and learn to shoot sitting down. Look though cammo netting and not over it. Always be still. Wear hat/cap gloves and a veil. Make sure your background is dark.
Pigeon love wind and always land into it.
Flight lines rarely if ever change in prevailing wind.
You need. Ear protectors+++
Good cammo net, 5 adjustable poles a good comfortable seat. Best decoys you can afford. Silsocs good.
Pigeon magnet is neigh on essential today esp if your on big fields.
Critical thing is to have movement in the decoy pattern. That's what incoming birds will see and latch on to.
I still make my own decoys and also have two on my magnet which is custom made.
I used to be a absolutely fanatical pigeon shooter in the 80s and still use the kit I purchased and made then.
Game bore clear pigeon 6s Aya Yeomen ejector bored improved and quarter. One and only 12 bore shot gun.
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Hello, There is a new Book out that shows you everything on Pigeon Shooting, I can get details if required or he put a Heads up on the Pigeon Watch forum, The Archie Coats was good in it day as that is what i was given at 15 and read many times,
 
Unfortunately this isn't the best time of year to get into pigeon shooting. They have all bunched up into great big single flocks that travel together en masse, fire one shot and they all f*** off to another field.
Nowadays, everywhere you look farms are growing rape, whilst this is not top of the pigeon's A la carte, it is one of the few foods available to them through the winter, scare them off one field and within sight will be another three.
 
No rape within miles of me. Pigeon now on ivy berries and alike. Before the frost on clover

D
 
Into my game and clay shooting but fancy doing a bit more on pigeons, I have a large permission on a mates farm and roost shoot regularly but have no idea about hides/decoys etc! What do I need as a basic set up and any pointers would be helpful! Cheers
Just go out there with a flask and a good hide and watch and learn, I mean this in the best way and not having a dig.
I have seen myself in the early days sit in a hide all day for half a dozen pigeons but just being out there was a pleasure with a comfy hide seat.
As said above watch where the pigeons are feeding and also what time of day they are feeding, I always found they would have fields they would hit hard in the mornings and other fields in the afternoon, make sure you're hide has good cover behind you as well as your net in front of you and don't be tempted to jump up too early to take your shot, Ideally you want to wait until the bird is committed to drop in to your pattern.
When I was into pigeon shooting in a big way I would sometimes go to the field the night before I was going out and place balloons on sticks in the middle of the fields and in various other places I had seem them feeding to tempt them to come and land where I was going to put my hide, This would work sometimes.
If using plastic decoys and not dead birds I found the sprung pegs worked better as the pigeons preferred a little movement within the pattern also if the pattern isn't working and the pigeons just keep flying past then change it until it draws them in, I also used to leave the shot pigeons where they dropped unless they were belly up then I would go and turn them over with their wings opened.
It's great sport when you get everything right but it takes a lot of time and effort to get it right, the conditions need to be perfect for the birds to come in in great numbers.
Good luck and I hope it all goes well because there is no better feeling when you get everything right on the day
 
As no-one else seems to have mentioned it to you, as a new member, please ensure that you comply with the general licence conditions for shooting wood pigeon.
 
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Unfortunately this isn't the best time of year to get into pigeon shooting. They have all bunched up into great big single flocks that travel together en masse, fire one shot and they all f*** off to another field.
Nowadays, everywhere you look farms are growing rape, whilst this is not top of the pigeon's A la carte, it is one of the few foods available to them through the winter, scare them off one field and within sight will be another three.
Cheers len, I’m in no rush and will prob roost shoot for the next couple of months post shooting season anyway!
 
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