Rifle shot out?
- Thread starter spannulman
- Start date
A 1-for-1 isn't really a faff. Simple form, no payment, no FEO visit. Dependingwhere you live, shouldn't take long either. Just bear in mind that that some FLD put a seven-day time limit for a free variation (although I believe the HOG don't mention any time limit?).
Would it be possible to get a cheap/loan stock to fit the action that really floated the barrel and find out what happened then? If it shoots then at least you know where the problem lies. Another option would be to do what people used to do with Lee Enfields in Africa years ago, cut it down (butcher it) into an ordinary stock.
David.
David.
deeangeo
Well-Known Member
I run a business card down the length of the barrel/stock right to the action & you can feel if the stock tightens against the barrel.
If it tightens & doesn't allow the card right down smoothly without interference, it's usually where the problem is found.
If there is interference, it will upset barrel harmonics when shots are fired & throw the bullets from the expected POI.
The next thing I'd do is strip the action out of the stock & check the barrel & action for witness marks where the wood interferes with the stock.
If you see signs of witness marks, remove wood from the inner stock to ensure it's allowing the barrel to completely free float.
Re-assemble, check the card runs smoothly to the action & test.
I've found this to be a problem twice before in Steyr Mannlicher stutzens and completely resolved the problem.
If it tightens & doesn't allow the card right down smoothly without interference, it's usually where the problem is found.
If there is interference, it will upset barrel harmonics when shots are fired & throw the bullets from the expected POI.
The next thing I'd do is strip the action out of the stock & check the barrel & action for witness marks where the wood interferes with the stock.
If you see signs of witness marks, remove wood from the inner stock to ensure it's allowing the barrel to completely free float.
Re-assemble, check the card runs smoothly to the action & test.
I've found this to be a problem twice before in Steyr Mannlicher stutzens and completely resolved the problem.
You say the action is smooth and you like that aspect of the gun. Why not rebarrel and put it in a different stock? Using a take off barrel and used stock would keep the cost fairly low, certainly no more than buying a mid range new one which will be built to a budget with modern (read corner cutting) methods.
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
That would depend on many variables. But I didn’t pay that much for mine and I ended up with a better than factory rifle.The cost to re-barrel a rifle £600 upwards.
The cost of a new Mauser M18 (10 year manufacturers warranty) just under £600.
There are plenty of secondhand ie “take off” barrels in the right chambering and with plenty of life left in them. Sat around in gunsmiths workshops. The cost will vary but it will be far less than a new barrel.
If you take out the cost of chambering, you have to check head spacing if it is good (your lucky) it saves some more money. If not you have some machine time setup and cutting to suit. Followed by proof which is a fixed cost regardless of what you get.
In this case I would be more inclined to think that it is either a victim of rust.
Or more likely something is loose. If it were mine I would strip it out of the stock and put it back together checking the correct torque and alignment as I did. The last thing if all that was correct would be to suspect the scope, uncommon but not unheard of. But a known good scope substituted would check that.
8x57
Distinguished Member
I priced around a few years back when I needed to replace the barrel on a rifle and the cheapest re-barrel (new barrel) was £600 plus. I didn't consider a used barrel. It was cheaper for me to buy a new budget rifle.
I agree with your approach to dealing with this rifle and that is exactly what I would do in the first instance well before coming to any conclusion about the barrel being shot out. Examine and eliminate.
However if the final conclusion is to re-barrel or replace this is how I would look at it.
£600 for a new rifle with a ten year manufacturers warranty equals £60 per year of what should be trouble free shooting.
£60 equals 19 pints of beer per year.
After 10 years of use you will still have a rifle sitting in the cabinet.
After 10 years of drinking 19 pints of beer a year the best you will have is a p**s stain on the wall.
I agree with your approach to dealing with this rifle and that is exactly what I would do in the first instance well before coming to any conclusion about the barrel being shot out. Examine and eliminate.
However if the final conclusion is to re-barrel or replace this is how I would look at it.
£600 for a new rifle with a ten year manufacturers warranty equals £60 per year of what should be trouble free shooting.
£60 equals 19 pints of beer per year.
After 10 years of use you will still have a rifle sitting in the cabinet.
After 10 years of drinking 19 pints of beer a year the best you will have is a p**s stain on the wall.
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
I don’t disagree with your reasoning. After all rifles and particularly the barrel are a perishable item. You use it till it wears out and replace all or parts thereof.I priced around a few years back when I needed to replace the barrel on a rifle and the cheapest re-barrel (new barrel) was £600 plus. I didn't consider a used barrel. It was cheaper for me to buy a new budget rifle.
I agree with your approach to dealing with this rifle and that is exactly what I would do in the first instance well before coming to any conclusion about the barrel being shot out. Examine and eliminate.
However if the final conclusion is to re-barrel or replace this is how I would look at it.
£600 for a new rifle with a ten year manufacturers warranty equals £60 per year of what should be trouble free shooting.
£60 equals 19 pints of beer per year.
After 10 years of use you will still have a rifle sitting in the cabinet.
After 10 years of drinking 19 pints of beer a year the best you will have is a p**s stain on the wall.
The quality of new off the shelf rifles does make a rebarrel job questionable on face value price alone.
I suppose I am spoiled by having a riflesmith within reasonable distance who has always had something that suited me and my budget at the time.
You can I believe buy off the shelf Mauser barrels from Walther that are pre chambered that compare well in the price stakes to other blanks. But it is the ‘smith’s time that adds up to a fair lump of the bill. So one of these or a good condition secondhand barrel. Which I was led to believe there’s usually a few available due to the action being used for customers after the controlled feed action for their build.
I probably wouldn’t bother with a custom job unless I was keeping it as a Stutzen or maybe going for sentimental reasons. Unless I could find something at the right price to tempt me otherwise.
Namman
Well-Known Member
If the loss of accuracy was sudden it does not suggest a worn barrel. Cracked stock, poor bedding. loose scope and mounts, faulty scope etc . With all the rifles which I have shot out, the first thing to go is accuracy with streamlined or boattail bullets. I have managed to keep them going by changing to round nose bullets with long bearing surfaces. This has been strikingly successful! ( 2x .308, .300 Win Mag, and 7mm Rem Mag.
First prove your scope ie fit another proven optic. I would then check action screws and float. If all is well with those it looks like a new barrel .
Barrel ware is usualy a progresive deterioration in accuracy and not a sudden leap off the cliff.
Good luck.
Get it looked at by a rifleSmith somebody who knows what there talking about.
As someone who has shot out a few barrels in my time ! shot our barrels usualy start throwing ( fliers ) randomly . you may have a good group of 5 or 6 then one fliere !! In a 308 that's a fair few rounds . As one post has said once you have lost your confidence in your rifle it's finished !!.
As someone who has shot out a few barrels in my time ! shot our barrels usualy start throwing ( fliers ) randomly . you may have a good group of 5 or 6 then one fliere !! In a 308 that's a fair few rounds . As one post has said once you have lost your confidence in your rifle it's finished !!.
8x57
Distinguished Member
I agree its nearly always progressive but I've seen it suddenly drop off the cliff in a couple of instances. One was with my Tikka 595 and the other was with a Sako 75.
Bore scope it - that will tell you. If you don't have one, this is a decent investment. Small enough to bore scope even a .22
If you want an idea what to look for:
Teslong Rifle Borescope, 0.2 Inch Gun Rifle Barrel Endoscope Camera with Side-View Mirror and Semi-Rigid Cable, works with Windows, Mac and Android Smartphones,Gun Cleaning Maintenance tool (2.95ft) : Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors
Shop Teslong Rifle Borescope, 0.2 Inch Gun Rifle Barrel Endoscope Camera with Side-View Mirror and Semi-Rigid Cable, works with Windows, Mac and Android Smartphones,Gun Cleaning Maintenance tool (2.95ft). Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders.
www.amazon.co.uk
If you want an idea what to look for:
If the bore isn't 100% toast, you could try lapping it with some JB Bore compound:
www.1967spud.com
Do some google on this stuff for more info. Lots of videos on YouTube.
JB Bore Cleaning Compound - 1967spud Reloading Supplies Ltd
Cuts Through Toughest Bullet Jacket & Powder Fouling - Can't-Run Paste Formulation - Cushioned Abrasive Action Leaves Bores Sparkling - Won't "Eat" Stock Finishes Try a jar of J-B for yourself; it’s 100%-guaranteed to totally delight you with the way it cleans.
www.1967spud.com
Do some google on this stuff for more info. Lots of videos on YouTube.
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Before deciding the barrel is done for why not replace any missing parts and clean the barrel until no copper fouling remains, do some shooting and check the results.
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